| Re: essential vacuum lines Not sure if you are changing carbs, or keeping the factory carb. And I don't know about your emissions requirements and laws, but
If going aftermarket carb, you can eliminate the fuel canister - just remove it, and run the extra fuel line from it to under the car (in case there is ever a fuel leak, it won't spray into the hot engine bay).
You'll need to maintain vacuum for the brake booster - most carbs have a large vacuum port on the back of the carb for this.
Most intakes have a vacuum port on them in the back - this is where you'll plug in vacuum lines for the cruise control (if keeping it), the vaccum for the heater controls in the cabin.
The front of the carb will have ported and non-ported fittings on it - one goes to vacuum advance on the HEI distributor if you are using in stead of the CC Carb and dizzy, the other can be used for any other accessories if needed, or capped off.
There may be one more vac fitting on the front of the carb - a larger one - I have this one hooked into my PCV valve in the valve cover.
Not sure if that helps - not sure what carb you are going to use, or what intake, what distributor, etc. - I'm using an Edelbrock 1405 with a Performer RPM intake, no cruise control, no EGR, no AIR, and no heater diverter valve, so I have few vacuum lines - just brakes, TCC lockup, cabin heater controls, HEI advance, and PCV.
__________________ 1992 25th Anniversary RS
350 Edelbrock 1406 Carb
10:1 Dometops Mild Cam
Hedmann Coated Headers
Hi-Flo Cat/Aerochamber Muffler
Rebuilt 700R4 B&M Shift Kit Vette Servo
LS1 Disc Rear w/3.42 Posi
Poly Bushings
Eibach Prokit
Bilstein Shocks/Struts
HOK Candy Teal on Silver Flake
1997 Camaro Z-28 LT1 |