Hey guys my 355 carb'd camaro has a problem after I drive 4-5 miles cruiseing, or if i haul ***.. I live in Nebraska and it somewhat humid and cold, (I am guessing 50% humitity and 45 degrees right now...). The timing is set to 9 degrees base, edelbrock 600 manual choke, performer rpm intake, 9:1 compression, small cam (stock ish... summit grind can get exact specs if needed...) 883 heads. I have headers and a small pancake style mrgasket filter, smallest one they make... 6inx2in I beleive. (definatly need to get a bigger filter) Has flowtech wrapped headers, fan bolted directly to the water pump. I think I am expieriancing what some call carb iceing... as soon as the car starts to bog and lose power i can pull over turn the engine off or let it idle for a minute or two start up and drive off with normal power. Then the same thing will happen 4 miles or so later. I want to put a factory Heat induction on the car to rule out carb iceing as the problem, but because I have wrapped flowtech headers I am not sure how i can put the induction unit on them... Any input would be greatly appreciated

Next time your car bogs down, immediately pull over and check to see if your choke is opening. I had this problem when the plastic cam (my old Ford) broke and I had to use a screwdriver to keep the choke open to get home.

choke is not sticking open, I have a manual choke.

Ooops. How is the fuel pressure?

Start with the basics. Sounds like a classic case of a plugged fuel filter.

When i did the carb swap about 2 months ago I put in all new hardlines for the fuel to the pump, return and vent.

The filter has had about 10 gallons through it. tank was cleaned when I dropped it to install the carb pick up and removed the electric one.

So when did the problem start? I don't understand, you did the filter 2 months ago with the swap and have only run 10 gallons through it since? Maybe something fell in the tank and is getting sucked into the pickup. Like has been mentioned you can use a pressure gauge to figure out if there is a pressure drop.
I drove the same carb all last year with no icing issues and it gets very cold here and is often humid.

Also it wouldn't be odd at all for the filter to be plugged again after you just changed it because you took the tank out, even if you think it was clean. The exact same thing happened to my friends astro van when he did the fuel pump. Did the filter at the same time and two months later he is calling me cause it won't run for more then 5 minutes before losing power.

Could also be a kinked line. There will be pressure, but little volume.

All the bends are nice and smooth, I will look it over.

What distributor are you using?

a non-cc mech and vacuum advance HEI. I don't have a very good timing light to set advance.. SO, I couldn't exactly tell you how much mechanical or vacuum advance the car has. But I do know that my base timing is set at 9 degrees base (750rpm no vac. advance)

I think this distributor is off a 1978 chevy truck

"xx% of carb problems are fixed with ignition parts." (Fill in the x's with something between 75 and 99)

I'd guess either your distributor coil or module is crapping out on you. Replacing both is rarely money poorly spent.

ok, will do, sounds plausible

Thats a new one by me. I would say 75% of carb problems are choke related and most of the rest basic tune issues.

More to the point 99 out of 100 times when you have a problem after you have changed something, the problem can be traced back to what you were working on.

The 75-99% comes in after you've messed with the carb for a couple of weeks.

(The original saying was, "75% of carburetor problems are fixed with a set of points and condenser." But, that wouldn't make sense to most TGO members.)