Carburetors Carb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.

Just bought Carb Rs. Need Advice!!!

Old 06-15-2010, 07:03 PM
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Car: 91 Carmaro Rs
Engine: 305 Carb
Transmission: 4spd Auto
Just bought Carb Rs. Need Advice!!!

Well two weeks ago i bought a 91 carb rs 84k miles. I dont know much about third gens but i thought they stop putting carbs in 84... Well i was just woundering is there any bolt ons for instant hp? Or is there anything i could do for a little bit more fun? Another noob question is whats the exact paint color of my car? lol


Thanks any advice is nice =)
Old 06-15-2010, 07:21 PM
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Re: Just bought Carb Rs. Need Advice!!!

carbs stopped along time ago. what carb? what intake? is ecm still in? what distributor? as for the other questions we would need to vin and other numbers.
Old 06-15-2010, 07:34 PM
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Just bought Carb Rs. Need Advice!!!

Although being carbed isn't federally emissions legal, if it doesn't matter in your city/county/state, there's alot that you can do. What kind of carb/model number?

Ehaust would be the first step I'd think - assuming the car is still the 305 and has stock exhaust. Headers, new or gutted cat, hi flo muffler would help.

Best seat of the pants bang for the buck is new rear end gears - assuming it's the stock 2.73 peg leg gears, a 3.08, 3.23. 3.42 posi would add alot of "feel" to the car. Cheapest way to attain this is the 4th gen rear end swap - gets you larger rear disk brakes and better gears & posi traction cheap - downfall is your stock wheels will stick out further on each side, as the 4th gen rear is slightly longer.

I'm assuming the intake has been changed as well - carb won't bolt to TBI intake I don't think - unless an adapter was used and I've never seen one before - see what kind of intake you have - get us name/number on that if you can find.

That's all I personally would spend money on before just swapping for a 350 motor. But check and verify that you really still have the 305 - there were alot of 350's in the 1970's that are actually rated lower on hp (145) that the stock 305 that should have been in your car (170). If you have one of these older low hp 350's, then a head swap would make a great start, as those smog 350's were most limited by the heads.

Can't tell ya about color until you give us a pic!
Old 06-16-2010, 03:54 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
chrisleeohyeah, welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

For the sake of technical correctness, the last year the factory offered carbs in f-bodies was 1987. The '88 Monte Carlo SS was the last carb passenger car from Chevrolet/Pontiac.

The first concern about an EFI to carb conversion is whether or not it was done correctly. As mentioned, the intake manifold has to be changed. If you could identify which one is on your car now and post that info, that would be helpful. Second, the factory distributor does not work properly with a non-computer carb. So, let us know if yours has vacuum advance on it. Even if it does, the timing is often set improperly. Third, the fuel supply has to be modified -factory EFI uses an in-tank electric pump that will produce higher pressure than the carb can stand; you either need to provide a regulator to drop the fuel pressure to 4-6 psi (and it needs to be a return-style pressure regulator), or if using an engine-mounted mechanical fuel pump, drop the tank and remove the electric pump. You can also use an in-line electric pump, but unless the factory in-tank pump is operating, it needs to be removed. Third, the type of carb used has to be appropriate for the engine. Too big of a carb is a common mistake. If you could identify the carb you have and post that info, that would also help. Fourth, if you have aTH700R-4 automatic transmission, you need to provide means to lock up the torque converter clutch without the computer, and the throttle valve cable needs an adapter to provide proper geometry for the cable attachment to the carb throttle arm. If these things aren't done properly, you can burn up your transmission.

Finally, unused wiring needs to be properly handled. The typical approach is to get out the wire cutters and go to town. This usually leaves vital functions non-operating, or leaves a mess. In reality, all of the unused wires can be removed without cutting anything (although the above-mentioned torque converter lock-up wiring will go with it).
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