IROCtheRoad

I've been trying for 2 nights now to remove my AV blades. I've got 3/4 of the screws out but the last one is being a (insert plethora of bad words).

All of the screws were really hard to take out but I managed. I'm having to use the CW / CCW method to make it even budge. I spent 2 hours last night alone and got the screw to turn maybe 1 1/2 turns, but now nothing.

Before anyone asks, I'm having to take the AV blades off to replace a worn out eccentric cam and AV tension spring.

Any suggestions?

IROCtheRoad

Well I finally got it. I said F you and got some channel locks and viced them as hard as I could. A few turns later and the F-er was out. Now I just have to figure out how to replace the AV spring.....

Apeiron

You didn't grind off the staked ends before you pulled them out, did you?

IROCtheRoad

No.......

I guess I should have, huh?

Apeiron

Yup. If you're lucky you haven't stripped the threads in the shaft.

IROCtheRoad

I didn't know about that. The threads are fine. Everything is installed. Now I'm dealing with the AV spring not closing the air valves. I suspect this is what is causing my 12 highway mpg.

I rebuilt the carb and just found this after the rebuild. It's my understanding that the av valves and shaft should move down freely w/o the spring in place. Mine has a good bit of resistance, not letting the valves close back up

IROCtheRoad

I found the problem. The hole in the top plate, driver's side, that receives the AV shaft (see picture) is too small for the shaft, ergo not letting the air valves move smoothly.

What bothers me is that the carb has never been rebuilt, so I dont know why I would be having issues. Oh well.

I'm going to try and sand the shaft down oh so slightly. I think trying to remove the brass plug and enlarging the hole would be much more difficult.

Right where the thumb is.....