curtalert89

Okay guys I just completed my 1991 v6 to 350 carb swap. And I'm wanting to know how you set up your wire harness for your car.

I built mine but it has a few problems.

Won't turn over with the key so I use a push button
But also the key will not shut down the motor. So the motor still runs when the key is in the off position.

Like my key when in the "on" position sends power to the dizzy
When I turn the key off the power no longer goes to the dizzy. I haven't tested weather or not this happens when the motor is running.

And my alternator I don't think is wired right because it I remove the battery the motor should still run off of the alt. (that's how it did when the car was still a v6)

So if you gents could help out with how you built your harness that would be fantastic. And a painless harness is out of the question! Ha

Thanks fellow Turdgen lovers!!

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

I opened my existing harness up and just cut out what wasn't needed. I started with sensor harnesses and injectors, then moved on to relays and what not that wasn't needed. Then I cut out what was left and relocated the stuff I wanted to keep (fan relay, FP relay, etc). I still have a bit left to do so I don't know the end result yet, but so far from testing everything seems ok.

curtalert89

Okay, are you running your ECU?
I'm not running one. I did away with most of the harness, and kept temp sender fuel pump relay. I'm having some issues tho. The car starts up perfect but my key does not turn off the motor, with the motor running and the ignition off I still have power going to the distributor and fuel pump. And when I disconnect the alternator the motor still runs, the only way to shut the motor down is to disconnect the negative battery terminal. I'm confused about what I wired up wrong!!

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

I'm not running the ECM either. I kept those plus the fan relay (kept the electric fan) and haven't really touched the wires that go to the starter. Do you have a wiring diagram or manual? It's going to be hard to tell what's going on since we're not there to actually see the wiring. You are going to have to trace the ignition wires and see what is missing. Sounds like you're missing something going to the starter as far as your starting issue. Maybe you have a wire that is getting 12V BATT instead of 12V IGN which would keep the engine running even when the key is off.

Here are some diagrams, check out the V6 one and see whats missing.
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/?pid=19

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

Also, may want to ask a mod to move this to the engine swap forum, may get more experienced guys there (no offense to anyone in here)

curtalert89

I also kept electric fan(just wiring it up to a switch). And my starter the only wires it has running to it it the main battery cable and the purple wire(which goes directly to the c100 bulk head. I'll try to describe how I have my wire harness set up so you can get a visual.

Main positive battery cable to starter
Smaller wire from positive battery terminal to junction block
Red ignition wire from junction block to c100 bulk head
Purple wire from starter to c100
Second red wire from junction block to c100 for head/tail/dash lights
Think pink wire from c100 to distributor
From distributor white wire to c100
Grey wire from c100 to fuel pump fuse
Pink w/black from c100 to fuel pump fuse
Green wire from c100 to temp guage sender between cylinder 1 and 2
Brown wire from alternator to c100 for volts gauge
Plus ground wires

I think that's it

Chevy2035

Got my car drivable while i finish but just did the same thing.

On your pass side of your car behind the kick panel, (go in through the plastic inner fender and take out the 7mm Bolt holding that connector to the fender, Inside are clips on the top and bottom, Push them and push it out, You can get rid of all of them wires pretty much but do 1 at a time and watch what they do.

The thicker pink wire coming out of the bundle on the drivers side of engine bay is Your hot to Ignition, The white is Tach, Has a little connector on it.

As far as ignition, there is a relay under drivers dash, I removed it and connected my starter wire directly in there, It has 2 yellow wires, I thin and one bigger, the bigger and small yellow both have 12v in start position.
(It bypasses all the Natural
saftey switch and VATS)

On your drivers at the Fuel pump relay, The gray wire needs jumpered to a Key on power of some sort (I used the injector power as it was key on, Want to say it was dark purple)


I dont know if my fuel level sender is bad or if i missed wiring for my fuel gauge,
I have no backup Lights (i went from 5speed to auto TH350) need to figure that out yet.

Make sure keep all grounds, I have no ECM and nothing that was connected to that harness connected, My tach is off (V6 needs a resistor soldered in, or a v8 cluster)
Im going with a Iroc for the 140mph cable driven speedo that matches the tranny

I have 6 wires to my motor, Grounds, Alternator, Tach, Ignition, Starter, 1 copper tube for oil pressure and a temp sensor thats it.

Runs and acts fine, just passed check, But still some work to do with fuel level sender (Dreading dropping the tank, Ill let you know what else i find)

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

mine did that run on thing but what I had done (and forgot) was connected my dizzy to 12v straight off the batt that way I knew that I was getting 12v and that I was getting spark. once I removed the 12v batt and hooked it to what is the 12v dizzy wire that used to be hooked up to the 3.1 coil. everything works fine. like the other guys just said double and triple check your wiring. its got to be something simple. hope you get it running soon