ConvertiblesDiscussed here are problems and solutions to convertible specific questions, including difficult to find part numbers and other convertible tech help.
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Well it just had to happen! A low mileage 100% original car and the body shop called me today and informed me that during the rmoval/installation of the passenger side door panel, the long plastic piece at the top broke. New ones are not available, but I sure do wish they were, and finding one in mint condition will be difficult. I do not blame them at all, after all I have broken a few myself. I looked for one in the TGO classifieds and some of the threads are so long you fall asleep reading through them. Maybe i will look again when I am rested and not so P#@%$ed off! Damnit!
Well it just had to happen! A low mileage 100% original car and the body shop called me today and informed me that during the rmoval/installation of the passenger side door panel, the long plastic piece at the top broke. New ones are not available, but I sure do wish they were, and finding one in mint condition will be difficult. I do not blame them at all, after all I have broken a few myself. I looked for one in the TGO classifieds and some of the threads are so long you fall asleep reading through them. Maybe i will look again when I am rested and not so P#@%$ed off! Damnit!
Things were going so good too.
dude!That is so minor!I don't have one that is exactly mint but it is in decent shape.
No cracks/breaks or sunfading.
I need a door hinge kit for my car so,please pm me!!!!!
Perhaps we can work something out?
And I think the near 60k odometer is still a factor in your motivation Andy!
Why would you let a simple piece like this get the best of you?
Must have been a looooooong day!
Timmy, are the pins on the back that are used to attach the door panel still intact? If so I am sure we can come to some sort of deal. Do you need standard or greaseable door hinge repair kit?
Thanks, Andy
__________________ 82 Z28- 383 roller w/Vortec heads Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake, Edelbrock Q jet, serpentine belt drive.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp. poly everything, IROC swaybar+wonderbar and steering box. Spohn subframe connectors. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad ( now repaired and equipped with the 1LE brake system). Also 1990 IROCZ 5.0 TPI 5 speed (drive train has 150 miles since new), and another 1990 IROCZ 5.7 G-92 etc., and yet another 1990 IROC-Z, red w/flames, and 1988 IROC-Z convertible, red w/59,000 miles.
Timmy, are the pins on the back that are used to attach the door panel still intact? If so I am sure we can come to some sort of deal. Do you need standard or greaseable door hinge repair kit?
Thanks, Andy
Yes sir,all pins intact.
Non-geasable will work for me unless you care to part with a greasable one?
Let me know man,can have this part headed your way on Monday.
Yes sir,all pins intact.
Non-geasable will work for me unless you care to part with a greasable one?
Let me know man,can have this part headed your way on Monday.
TIMMY, the body shop called me today and told me they had located a good one locally. I went down to see for myself, and sure enough they had one in perfect condition. Thanks for the offer TIMMY. I still need to locate some items I had forgotten about though: drivers side inner fender liner/stone guard or whatever it is called. Vert trunk struts, which I have no idea where to find?
I tried to insert some new pictures per the instructions. But my pictures do not begin with HTTP. They are in jpeg format on my computer. It is so frustrating!..
Andy .. we cant see what pics you have it you just have them on your computer, you need to upload them to the WEB .. you know what I mean .. once on the WEB it will Spread like GERMS.
go get yourself a photobucket account over at www.photobucket.com and once you upload your photos there it give you an option to post pics on websites like this. To tell you the Truth .. I dont know how you guys do those small pics where you click on it to expand it .. LOL I only know how to put big pics on here.
Lets see some pics Andy !! come on you can do it.
heres the upload section where you browse your pics on your computer to choose which ones you want to share ......!
Once uploaded to your online folder there is this option under it !!! just click once on the part that starts like this "[img]" .. once you click on it, It will automatically copy it !! come back here , right click and paste ... hit ENTER and lets see some pics. come on I wanna see pics, plus I wanna know if Im a good teacher. lol
I am nearing the end of this odyssey, BUT some curiuosly easy items remain. The dash and substructure including the rear portion of the heater A/C box were damaged bevond repair. I have removed them, but after combing the local pic-n-pull joints am unable to locate suitable replacements. I have a dash panel from an '86 which the parts book says should be the same. but alas it is different. So i am currently searching for one http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/in...arts-89-a.html (Full interior parts from 89 rs, Dash, pad, ETC Cheap!) I wish their was a local donor car. Thanks, Andy
I have updates but I have the usual hassle with posting images. I have plans to put them all up on my website then simply link to them. It will be better than trying to post a massive amount of images here.
Does anyone know how I can make the before and after images (two images) fade in and out like I have sometimes seen done at Power Point demonstrations? I am going to take a picture in the exact same spot with the after picture.
Thanks, Andy
I raised the tonneau cover yesterday and noticed two lanyard looking pull cables. One on each side in the top storage area. What are these cables for? They appear to be some sort of release cables. Thanks, Andy
I have located nearly all of the parts and services required to do the repairs back to pre-damage condition. Some new parts, and mostly used in exellent condition. a non-rusted hood in red was a big find in my efforts.
But a rather significant issue has emerged. I am unable to get a title in Virginia which would allow me to EVER drive the car again. They consider the car as "non-repairable"! No discussion of their position is allowed. I have a PA title, and in PA the car is now considered a "classic/antique" worthy of preservation. I have been advised (by a non-governmental person) not to perform any work on the car until this is resolved. Furthermore to keep careful records of all the parts I have so far collected. I may need to get a lawyer to assist me in going to war with the VA DMV. The whole thing is silly, but I have a grim determination to prevail!
Thanks, Andy
there is a simple work around, get a mail box in PA and re title it in your name then wait 6 months and have it retitled in VA as if you just moved to the state, if you have family in Pa it would greatly simplify things.......... just an idea
there is a simple work around, get a mail box in PA and re title it in your name then wait 6 months and have it retitled in VA as if you just moved to the state, if you have family in Pa it would greatly simplify things.......... just an idea
I have thought about doing so. But it will always have a "salvage certificate", which is not a title. I will do it the right way and be done with the paperwork portion once-and-for-all. Thanks Andy
I am working on getting all (nearly 100) images posted to my website so all can view them. Why pay for image hosting when I have plenty of room on my own website? They should be available in the next fwe days. Thanks, Andy
All of the pictures ore now on my website http://andyz28.com/ I had them setup as a download slideshow instead on over 100 thumbnails. Let me know what you think. The color appears somewhat orage, but it is actually the factory red color. ENJOY!
But man what a lot of work to get the car repaired and finished as showroom condition.
Yes, all GM parts were used. The right fender was the last new GM "power antenna" fender in North America. Or so I was told. Getting the body straight was a big challenge for the body/frame shop as the car was also tweaked from the hard impact. But it is as godd (or possibly better) than new. What a thrill it is to drive this car. Thanks, Andy
__________________ 82 Z28- 383 roller w/Vortec heads Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake, Edelbrock Q jet, serpentine belt drive.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp. poly everything, IROC swaybar+wonderbar and steering box. Spohn subframe connectors. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad ( now repaired and equipped with the 1LE brake system). Also 1990 IROCZ 5.0 TPI 5 speed (drive train has 150 miles since new), and another 1990 IROCZ 5.7 G-92 etc., and yet another 1990 IROC-Z, red w/flames, and 1988 IROC-Z convertible, red w/59,000 miles.
I will try and get a detailed breakdown of the actual expenses today and post them.
__________________ 82 Z28- 383 roller w/Vortec heads Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake, Edelbrock Q jet, serpentine belt drive.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp. poly everything, IROC swaybar+wonderbar and steering box. Spohn subframe connectors. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad ( now repaired and equipped with the 1LE brake system). Also 1990 IROCZ 5.0 TPI 5 speed (drive train has 150 miles since new), and another 1990 IROCZ 5.7 G-92 etc., and yet another 1990 IROC-Z, red w/flames, and 1988 IROC-Z convertible, red w/59,000 miles.
88 Firebird Formula 350- 85,XXX miles *G92* *Ws6*
