CoolingDiscuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.
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Stick with the standard G.M. tube.. An orifice tube does vary the mist it spits into the evaporator some what like the expansion valve does depending on the pressure in the high side even though it is a so xalled fixed tube. I'd leave it at that and keep the G.M. tube. The secret to cold air in the change over from R-12 to 134A is making sure you have the system flushed out extremely well and start out with a new compressor and accumalator. Otherwise it may never blow ice cold...
Can someone tell where the orifice tube is located
Remove the solid metal line that goes from the condensor that is running along the frame rail. You won't see it in that metal tube that will be removed but inside the tube opening opposite the end of the condensor. Be sure to use 2 wrenches when removing/installing the line so nothing twists and wants to break off. Remove the line and you'll see it right away.
I used a "blue" tube which is OEM for a 1988 T-bird. This was under recommendation of IROCZone and ACkits.com.
Current vent temps are running ~ 45 degrees on 90+ days.
No sweat to say the least.
R134a IS a player and well worth the effort to do it right.
Ernie
R134a SUCKS!!
45*F is tepid to me, I will never have R134a in any vehicle of mine again.
At idle in the mid day sun my a/c is about 40*F in 105*F weather. I have seen 24*F vent temps on lower fan settings before the compressor cycles off and have seen 32*F vent temps on high fan speed and recirculate.
I used an adjustable once and ended up having to put in a new evaporator when it broke and became jammed in the evaporator, even an extractor would not pull it out.
I ALWAYS swap out the .071" GM white orifice for the .067" Ford one. Even my dads 1997 Express van with rear a/c cooled better around town and at idle when the front orifice was swapped for the Ford one.
I ALWAYS swap out the .071" GM white orifice for the .067" Ford one. Even my dads 1997 Express van with rear a/c cooled better around town and at idle when the front orifice was swapped for the Ford one.
Was the above a GM vs Blue orifice with R-134a? I'm wondering how much difference the blue one gives just by itself.
The theory with orifice valves is that the larger GM white one works better on the highway but worse in the city. Whereas the blue one works better in city (especially in stopped traffic) but works worse on the highway.
Are you running the blue orifice on the Dodge truck?
I've debated doing the blue Ford orifice on the GTA. But I'm running 30° on the highway and 30-35° in the city (moving). It will rise up to 40° stopped in city traffic (long lights). Sometimes even 45° in summer traffic jams (Hot muggy Houston summer days in the afternoon). I suspect the lack of any airflow over the condenser in traffic jams (aside from the radiator fans pulling air) is the problem with traffic jams. I doubt any orifice would help that much in that regard.