CoolingDiscuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.
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Both of these are very popular in 4th gens. Most people see around a 15hp increase. I know they can be used on third gens, but I don't know why they aren't very popular. Has anyone used either of these?
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I have the CSI for my new crate motor but it is in the process of being installed so i can not give you any temps, or hp gains, or any data! I can tell you that both are pretty much the same on our cars. If you talk to someone over at Jeggs or Summit they will tell you that also. There is really only a $15 difference between the two, that is why i went with CSI. You also need the adapter kit for the fitting but the tech guy should give you the part number, that is also like $15! good luck
John,
I just visitied your site and I am impressed! I have never seen the modified LT1 for standard SBC's. Very impressive!
Now, talking about mechanical vs electrical wp's, in your opinion, how are the mech. w.p.'s better. From the electrical w.p.'s i've seen, they flow a hell of alot more water and they free up HP.
I am considering a switch from my edelbrock hi-flo wp to either a mezeire or csi.
OK, here's the deal on a mechanical vs. electrical water pump.
A good hi performance mech pump like the Stewart stage 1 ($69) will flow 18 GPH at IDLE, crusing the highway at 2500rpm it pumps 55 GPH. WOT it cranks out 132 GPH at 6000rpm.
The highest flow electric pump is only 37 GPH-at all rpm's and will cost you between $260-300, AND uses additional alternator power-something we are lacking in 3rd gen's with tiny alternators.
I've never heard of Stewart, is it true that the "stage 2" is an aluminum? Is it that much more? thanks for all of the info. I too checked out your site, nice car man, it truly is a sleeper, good job! If you do not mind me asking, all together, with all parts considered, how much would it be for me to do the LT1 swap? later
A good hi performance mech pump like the Stewart stage 1 ($69) will flow 18 GPH at IDLE, crusing the highway at 2500rpm it pumps 55 GPH. WOT it cranks out 132 GPH at 6000rpm.
The highest flow electric pump is only 37 GPH-at all rpm's and will cost you between $260-300, AND uses additional alternator power-something we are lacking in 3rd gen's with tiny alternators.
Ok, here is a question i have about running at high load/rpms.
Iv heard that is the major downfall of electric pumps is at high rpms when racing or something, cause they don't flow as much. But then why are they sold for racing purpose only? I mean yes it doesn't flow as much as a mech water pump. but then again the water does spend more time in the radiator to cool off more. And wouldn't there be a lot of turbulence\cavitation in the water pump and other areas of the block at 100+ GPH?
Im not trying to prove anyone wrong here, cause im definatly not an expert, but im just confused about a few things
__________________ - David Angel
88' GTA 5.7L TPI 6 speed: MODS---> 95 T-56 tranny, air foil, K&N, 180* therm, TB bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Ceramic Coated Headers with y-pipe, StraightPiped Cat, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to SLP Catback, Ported Intake http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16
Originally posted by breathment .........I mean yes it doesn't flow as much as a mech water pump. but then again the water does spend more time in the radiator to cool off more............
Yes, the water spends more time in the radiator to cool off more but it also spends more time in the block to heat up more.
so wut about the fact that they are "racing only" set ups. are they talking circle racing or drag racing or auto cross or what? cause that is pretty tough abuse for a cooling system.
or are they for "racing only" because they aren't reliable for street use and that is their way of saying that?
__________________ - David Angel
88' GTA 5.7L TPI 6 speed: MODS---> 95 T-56 tranny, air foil, K&N, 180* therm, TB bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Ceramic Coated Headers with y-pipe, StraightPiped Cat, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to SLP Catback, Ported Intake http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16
"Racing only" in my opinion would be a way of saying not for street use.
I have been drag racing and I can tell you, my car gets hotter when it's street driven. I mean at McD's drive thru in 90° heat middle of the day with A/C on Max waiting for 15 mins. really heats it up.
Or on the way home from work and I get stopped at railroad crossing while they de-couple trains and seperate tracks (I live on the coast in a port city).
look at it this way you have a electric pump on your race car, you start it to go line up run the quarter, park, and shut it down. so it probably ran for about a 3-5 min max. put that same pump on a daily driver and drive from the track to your house (my self i live about 30 min away) now your car is running that much longer but you pump is flowing alot less and thats not even considering stop and go traffic at all. thats why they would say not for street use at least thats what i think.
Yeah, been there done that with the whole "failing" thing. Actually, a fuse blew and before I knew it I was redlined. Took the electric out and threw a Stage I in. Good to go.
