CoolingDiscuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.
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After some old message digging, saw that balanced thermostats work much better than common one, so am upgrading to a Milodon 16401 (180 degrees). My water pump is leaking. This car is stock w/ exception of hypertech fan switch and thermostat & purpose for now is work n back (4,000 rpms max). Since I have to replace water pump anyway, would there be a big advantage to a higher flow water pump? Also, I'd really appreciate any recommendations on reliable water pump brands - thanks
Scooter, my `88 Iroc runs at 200 max in traffic when the temps are 90+ outside. I use a Jet part # 60600 fan switch, 200 degrees on, 185 off, a Stewart part # EMP-301 180 degree thermostat with 3 3/16ths bypass holes, 30% anti-freeze, 70% distilled water, 1 bottle Red Line water wetter and the parts that made the most difference in cooler temps was installing a 4th gen dual fan shroud and fans. I got the shroud from Hawks, the fans and everything else from Summit or Pep Boys. The fan shroud is the key.
The dual fans & shroud would be a big step up. I will check bone yards around here. my water pumps going any thoughts on stock water pumps or something better?
Ok, so I checked this post looking for ways to lower my car's temp. Eventually, I plan to go to a 350, but for now I have the stock 305 TBI. My problem is living in hawaii it never drops below 76* here, and in traffic my car over-heats so bad. Can you imagine, Honalulu has close to 2 million people.. so during rush-hour, it's only inches forward at a time. I literally watch the temp guage raise. So I stay in the far right lane so I can pull over at anytime. When my car was over-heating back home in the mainland, I got out of town on a long stretch and I went 100 mph. Popped it in neutral, and watched it drop just as fast as it raised. It sucks, on cold days, that car RIPS, but as soon as I get caught in traffic on a slightly warm day, it over heats to the point where, when you pop the hood the radiator caps its teetering, about to pop off.. the overflow tank is bulging like it wants to explode, it's also hissing, letting steam out of it. So I mean, I can see that this is a pretty legit question he asked. As for me, I could care less that I'm getting 3-4 miles less to the gallon, I drive a gas hog, it's bound to happen, but I live on an Island so it's all good. How about, instead of complaining that we're not being efficient enough for todays "import status gas savers", and think of a way to keep us running cooler while stuck in traffic. The newer camaro's dont over heat.. Why are ours? I understand maybe a 160* stat might not be the answer.. but what alternatives to we have to keeping our cars below the red line? Sorry if I sound a little mad, but I read like 20 posts, and none of them were going in the direction of the orignal question. This car has been in my family for 8 years.. and never have I, nor my mom found anyone with any ideas to allow us to run these cars anytime we want. I get paid well so money for gas is NO issue.. thank you ahead of time for all your future help.
-Dow aka (Jow Jow)
Just did an engine swap on mine.. from 305 tbi to 305 tbi.. needed a motor fast, mine was toast from overheating.. and still driving it. (stupid, I know) I have been researching the cooling quite a bit. A new radiator made a HELLUVA difference! They are about $100 from Advance Auto and I am having great luck with it. Also, I am running a 180* thermostat. My fan switch does not work I have found. The fan wouldn't turn on and it would overheat idling, so - I took off the connector to the fan switch and made a wire to ground it to the block. This will tell you both that the motor is grounded and that the fan and relay are working, but the fan switch is not! I plan on getting a fan switch that turns on at 200 and off at 185. The stock ones scare me as they don't turn on until the gauge makes me nervous from being so high. I can drive it with no fan with no problem and it doesn't seem to reach 220 until after sitting for more than 5 minutes. Also, if your fan switch is bad, then you can turn your AC on max and it should turn on your fan. I'm doing this until I can find a lower fan switch. My dad swears on a 160* and the guy I bought the motor from swears by 195*, so I am going with 180* as the summers here in South Carolina have been in the high nineties, and our winter hasn't been very cold. Hope this helped!
I`ve never had cooling issues with the changes I made in my last post except I forgot to mention the Stewart stage 1 water pump I also installed. I run a toggle switch for each fan to the console so I can turn them on manually too. Works pretty slick. I`ve tried every radiator out there and not one made a difference in cooling temps. I now have a single row plastic/aluminum for the past 2 years, I like it. Cheap and works great. My temps never go past 200 unless I want them too.
My single fan on my 89 runs all the time, the dual fans on the 92Z do the same thing..My 89 barley moves the gauge...170 therm, new radiator, and hose, with water wetter...I can turn them off, if I need to have the key on for any length of time, but rarely do so..the 89 has been this way for about 5 years with no problem...Had a 160 in it for a while, but it just ran too cool in the winter time...
Last edited by Gallileo60; 06-29-2011 at 08:29 PM.
Hi everyone,
Never had a problem with my 89 RS but just bought a 91 Z28 and feel the temerature pain. Put in a high performance, new waterpump, a 180 deg thermostat and still see the temps rising over 1/2. dual fans kick in just before the redline and seem to control it. I put in midrange gas, hoping it keeps he engine a little cooler...
Thanks for sharing all the info about fan switches ! Will work on that next.........
In search of cheap power! 
