V8Rumble

Forgive me if this has already been covered, it's a bit late, & I've just skimmed the last 20 or so posts... But... Is your air dam still attached? (And not "flopping around"?) If your car's heating up even during highway driving, that's the 1st thing I'd look at. Also - I inadvertently messed my cooling system up (two ways) when I removed my A/C - first, the switch no longer activates my fan, & second, removing the A/C condenser from in front of the radiator now allows air to escape around the sides of the radiator, instead of being forced through it. Like I said, I'm not sure if any or all of the above has been covered, but if not, they should be pretty easy to check, & cheap to fix if one or more of them applies to you. (I'll probably be fixing mine tomorrow...) Good luck!

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1991ON20's

im having the same problem. 305 tbi to a 350 tbi.....
my radiator makes a sound "like puting droplets of water in a frying pan" ping ping ping, after u turn the car off. Also after u turn the heat on the car has problems keeping cool.

and whats up with the spark knock i get on the highway...i read the post about that.....but does that have anything to do with me still using the 305 tbi injectors? is the temp rising to high and im getting that UGLY spark knock with the high drops in RPMS?
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oh yeah the city and the highway temps get up around 220 then at a stand still my rpms get go UP and Down like a roller coaster while the temps get a little higher.
whats the deal america?

escort_ford84

Ive been going threw some stickies and im fairly sure this question hasnt been asked. I have basically a stock 305 with a fairly large camshaft. I have been running a 160 thermostat. I do make my own chips and have all the temps to work with the 160. I got the camaro (1988) stock with tbi. Then it had 185 PSI cylinder pressure. Now with the camshaft, i now have 150 PSI. I am wondering if i would benefit from the 195 having lower cylinder pressure. I would think cylinder temps would be lower with the lower PSI. Im sure someone has done this before. I installed a new intake manifold today and i have both thermostats sitting here ready to go on. Thanks.
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how can i fix this ?

sean_francis21

The air dam that you all are talking about, what does it look like? I have a black plastic thing but its curved on my 89 RS by buddy has an 86 and he has the black plastic actually looks like a dam straight up and down does that mean mine is missing since I have nothing protruding down???

camaro55427

i just read the cts link, i got code 15 and a code 23? so i guess i need to replace the senser and code 23 is iat? does that mean the comp is goin crazy cause the temp is normal but the cts is sayin its majorly cold?

Jasper45

K guys I'm new here and need help I bought a 92 Z28 and the guy has converted the TPI 305 to a TPI 350 it's having overheating issues, at an idle it will just keep getting hotter I don't think the fans are coming on when they should which is what temp? Should I wire in a manual fan switch? The thermostat is a new 160 should I go to 180? Hoses and radiator are good and the previous owner installed an edelbrock water pump what next?

werewolf

something I did to help cool in the summer and still let you have heat in the winter is splice a wire ti the green with white stripe on coolant fan switch wire run it to a toggle... then the other lead from the spst toggle run to ground then you flip the switch on fan turns on. flip the switch off fan runs when tep switch tells it too.

thisme305

Where is the fan switch on a 92 rs 3.1 V6? Everybody else seems to know on the 305 or 350 but no info on the V6. Or does the V6 even have a fan switch at all?

chindo

hey guys, I just picked up a 92 RS with a 305 tbi and the guy i got it from said it would overheat. What should the operating temp be at?? I know this forum says around 220 but how long should it take to get there when idling? The gauge moves very slowly and it takes about 10 minutes to even start to move. I check the temp at Thermo housing with infrared gauge and it would read around 150 so actually temps are probably close to 175. I got this car as a project so dont need to drive it right away I just dont want to overheat and cause problem. The car runs very smooth and idles great. The only other problem is my oil gauge seems low too, which makes me wonder about my temp gauge

Prickly

Overheating usually is caused by cooling system problems such as old/bad/leaky/squishy hoses, sticking thermostats, leaky radiators(air and fluid) and caps, CLOGGED heater cores DONT allow coolant to pass through them making engine cooling difficult, fan switches and relays, BAD water pumps, leaky intake and head gaskets, air dam spoiler under the front bumper missing or damaged. Overly rich or lean air/fuel mixtures can also cause heat issues. Check all items except intake/head gaskets and air/fuel mixture yourself. Save some money if you can but when you cant,......see below.

If you cant find the problem within a few days, pay the $100 for a professional mechanic that you trust`s diagnostic or opinion.

tgk7203

I have a real puzzel on my hands. I am losing coolant and I cant find were it is leaking. I wasnt having any problems before replacing the belt tenchiner. There are no visable leaks but on a two hour drive the over flow bottle is empty. Maybe a preassure test I dont know. But with hood up and car running still see now leaks cheaking everywere I can see and even lloking at the block I no smoke either. Please help thanks for looking

xxbeanerxx

I just bought an '88 Iroc 350 TPi and the fans don't come on. I rigged up a temporary switch to bypass the relays. The fan works great with this switch but I want it to run as it was intended. So, question. How do I check to see if the fan relays work? I mean the 2 relays by the car battery NOT the ones by the firewall. P.S. I have a dual electric fan setup.