i got my car not to long ago and dont know a lot about cars or fixing them. And just my luck the THERMOSTAT is frozen closed and my dad wont be able to help me replace it until this weekend. Does anyone know a good site that explanes how to replace them for a 1985 camaro berlinetta

Very simple. Just drain the coolant, take out the 2 bolts that hold it on, scrape the old gasket off, put the new gaset and thermostat on, retighten, and refill coolant. One of the easiest things to change on our cars.

Hmmm I know that all instructions on this say to drain the coolant... but since the upper radiator hose is a little higher than the cap, I don't see why you have to drain all the coolant. Whatever, its easy either way, but I wouldn't drain all my coolant. I would catch what comes out of the hose until it stops coming... and replace it later after I pop in the stat. Just 2 cents.

yeah, you dont need to drain all of it. Just enough so it doesnt spill out when you remove the theromostat.

disconnect the upper radiator hose from the housing and fold it upward out of the way.

then just take the housing off....

you'll only lose about a cup of coolent.... easily added back..

the first time i replaced my themostat on my GTA i ran into some deep stuff. i got the bolts and housing off really easy but when i was putting the bolts back in (the one threaded shaft with the welded nut on it to be specific) it wouldn't go in right like there was something in the hole. i looked and examined the hole and nothing was in there. i tried again and the next thing i knew the shaft broke at the welded nut. it must've been because of the coolant and the high heat. just be careful and maybe replace those bolts like every 2-3 years. just giving you a heads up

What about sealant??

Kevin

if you use a gasket, you dont need sealant.

you can also use gasketmaker, or RTV (sealent) and no gasket...


or you could use both.. its not needed..



GTAman did bring up a good point though.

if you drip water into the bolt holes, when you go to tighten them, the water gets in the way and wont let you tighten it all the way. so dry out the holes if you get water in them....

Use antiseize lube on the bolts. You'll be grateful next t-stat change.

Not trying to argue, I just learned this. You were correct when you said you can use gasketmaker/RTV and no gasket. But If you want to put something on a gasket you should use Hylomar. Its in the same part of the store RTV is and is even made by permatex, but its made to use in conjunction with gaskets, and RTV is made to be used alone, metal to metal.

I just did my t-stat last week and with gasket alone it leaked when I did my pressure test. As I was getting ready to put some RTV on my gasket my professor started explaining to me that " A gasket F's things up with RTV, and Hylomar is the way to go." He made me go pick some up at the parts store, and it worked great. I had never heard of it before.

"Permatex® Hylomar® HPF Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant
An exceptional high tack gel sealant that is nonhardening, allowing for easy disassembly of flanged components even after long-term operation. No-run formula is compatible with flanged surfaces and mechanical gasketing materials. Temperature range -60°F to 600°F (-51°C to 315°C), resists fuels, lubricants, water, water/glycol and related machinery fluids. Contains no ODC/VOC solvents.

Suggested Applications:
Hydraulic drives and motors; inlet manifold engine assemblies; oil, fuel and water pump housings and seals; fuel injectors and fuel pumps; transmission and torque converter seals"

technicly.... hes right. that is the "correct" stuff to use.

but the RTV works... esp the permatex stuff... their RTV isnt the same gelatin looking stuff.. it has a much nicer texture.


in anycase, id use that stuff over RTV for a gasket that needed sealent... with a thermostat housing, its not a big issue. with other gaskets it could be.

Thats why I said "not to argue" RTV will work, but I was told about Hylomar being the proper product and thought I could pass it on, since it was totally new to me.

TPI cars its not as easy as many people tend to strip, and destroy the aluminum threads... I am one of these people. I turned a 20 min t stat change to a 3 day drill and tap festival. I used RTV and a gasket and im still getting a little leak.

next time ya do it, goto the store and get an ez out, they rock

A little off-topic, but Fel Pro makes a real nice reusable plastic gasket, although they are a little expensive. Because there isn't much room to get in there to scrape off the old gasket, the replaceable gasket is a lot easier than the paper. I order mine through Summit.

how much was the reusable gasket from summit?

i got one from autozone for $5 and have been using it ever since.

$5.00!!!! DAMN! I think I paid $13.00 for the Fel Pro from Summit. That does it for Fel Pro reusable gaskets from Summit!

just to put in my 2 cents...dont use any type of sealant...this is why they make gaskets..your water pump is a machined surface..and your block is a machined surface..just put the gasket on there and tighten to the right specs...i HATE sealant because before i knew not to use it..my buddy told me to use it allllll over the intake manifold...and before i knew it...i had no oil pressure..smoked the motor..took the motor apart..and the pickup was full of blue ****...hmmmmm i wonder what that was...but anyways...in my opinion...unless your car is strictly strip where u'd be taking stuff off frequently..i wouldnt use it..stick with a gasket thats why they make em

yes that is mostly true. but alot of times there is some old gasket material on there (that stuff can be hard to get off) which doesn't give u a good seal. especialy on the thermostat housing which is aluminum and likes to warp sometimes and get out of shape easily. its more just cheap insurence. at least on the cooling system.

no offence, but it screwed you because you used it incorrectly.. not because sealent is bad.


in anycase, we're talking the themosat housing.... yes its machined, but its also a thin cheap casting... that naturally warps over time.

thats why most people have a sealing prob to begin with......

sealent somtimes works better then a gasket when the parts just dont fit right...


they both have their place, and niether is wrong for this app..

You cant honestly tell me you use the actual front and rear intake gaskets! Those are garenteed leaks, what your friend told you is right, RTV the front and rear of the intake and throw away the gaskets!!!

from what i've learned..the front and rear..yea..use some sealant..but the way my buddy told me and showed me was a bit rediculous...i mean when i put the manifold on it jus squashed and stuck out all ugly..but anyways..live and learn i guess

thats how you do it..... athough if you do it enough times, you can put just the right amount to seal and not have any squish out.


also, putting a couple punch marks on the intake and china wall help hold the silicone there.... JIC.

ah well..jus from personal experience i dont like it...my neighbor helped build my new engine...and he's got 3 big block cars..and he's never used the stuff and his **** dont leak..to each their own