Got my griffin aluminum rad and milodon pump yesterday and installed them today. Runs 20 to 30 degrees cooler. I didnt need to upgrade these yet but I figured since I was having a cooling issue because of a leaky heater core I might as well since I would've had to do it eventually. I did have to make some minor mods to the rad supports and fan to make it fit tho. I can possibly take some pics tomorrow. I had to take out the rubber things that the rad sits on becuz the new griffin sat too high. Replaced them (top and bottom) with some rubber inner tubing strips. Also put a few strips on the sides to keep the rad from rubbing. Its a tight fit. Ran the tranny lines straight to my tranny cooler as there are no openings for them in the aluminum one. Disconnected and removed my heater core for now. Can reinstall and route the hoses to the pump and intake later. Also had to cut off some of the rad support on the drivers side because the it was curved and wouldnt fit around the hose opening. Then had a problem with the fan rubbing against the rad so had to use two washers per bolt to tighten it down and keep it from rubbing. Intake temp before the swap was 200-210 and then 170 after (my stat is a 170). Used the same hoses. Pump works great. Hopefully I can get a few decent pics with my cheap digital for you to see if your interested.

yeah lets see some pics im having issue with the fans rubbing as well.did you use washers on the bottom fan bolts too?

Yes, both top and bottom. Very difficult to do but I managed. I cant post pics tho becuz I am on probation (forgot). If someone would let me email them and post them for me I would.

Don't drive without a trans cooler. But the biggest you can find since you aren't running one in the radiator.

I have one...thanks. Anyone wanna post the pics for me???

Send them (pics) to me john@lt1intake.com

Thanks John...you have mail.

Here are Picards pictures of his Griffin radiator install.

That looks really good. I cant wait to get my griffin rad.

Thanks for the pics! I'm getting mine Tuesday, and now I know what to look out for. I got the 1.25" core though. Hope it isn't any more difficult than yours.

Looks good!

I think the 1.25 core is a little bigger than the 1.00
I used tire tubing to replace the rubber supports cuz they were too big. Rad was too tall.

I'll say it again, no way will you be able to use the stock plastic upper and lower radiator supports with the dual 1.25" Griffin. You will have to make new mounts.

Here's a before picture with my dual 1.25" Griffin and the stock upper mount.

Well, looks like I'll be shipping it back now!

I just re-ordered a daul 1" core........

I don't want to have to go through fabricated brackets. So I ordered both the 1" dual core and a Summit hi-volume iron water pump. Wish I would have known this three days ago!

It's my own stupid fault.....I should have read more..arrrrrghhh....

Hey...stuff happens. Its not like you tried to install it already. The 1"will be fine. If you run into problems give me a holler. I think I covered eveything tho.

Looks good Captain!

Thankyou number one!!

I got the 1.25" core radiator in the mail Tuesday, along with a Griffin cap. I sent the 1.25" one back (cost me 16 bucks to return it)

But got the 1" core radiator today. It feels SUBSTANTIALLY lighter than the 1.25" I returned.....also got a Summit iron hi-volume water pump to replace my brand new P.O.S. Cat Power water pump that doesn't work. Impellar spins, bearings are fine in it - jusy does not pump water!! I think it was assembled with a reverse impellar or something. Hopefully the rad, water pump will drop my temps a bit.

I'll start dropping them in tomorrow!

Well, removed the old water pump and radiator today. Also got the Summit hi-volume pump in.

The bolt hole that's used to adjust the power steering on the Summit pump was oversized and had no threads I discovered....

I adapted though. Had to use a long bolt inserted from the back of the pump. Don't ask me why the hole was too big......aftermarket crap. Had to take it back off to put the long bolt in.

Also dropped the Griffin radiator in for a quick test fit before I had to run to work. It's tight, no doubt about it. The tank on the driver's side rubs up against the power steering box return hard line, but nothing to really worry about. I'll "tweak" it a little and it should clear.

As CaptPicardsZ28 said, I'll have to use thinner rubber strips at the bottom, and possibly the top too. Other than that, it looks promising. I'll finish it up tomorrow - I hope.

I'll post back and maybe get a couple of pics when it's in....

Cool..sounds promising. MIne didnt rub against power steering lines. I lucked out. Dont forget to use some rubber inner tube on the side where the rad rubs against the body.

Took alot longer than I thought thought....

Mine has AC, so I had a condenser to deal with. Had to modify the shroud top a bit. Man, it's full of radiator up front!! Had it idling for 1/2 hour, and stayed around 180-200 range. That's 20 degrees cooler than it was running.

Still need to take it out tomorrow for a test, but looks promising!

Barely fits....

Another in progress....

And done....no leaks!!

Couple more...

Last one...

Looks great!! Good job man!

Thanks for the compliment! I took it out on a run, and it's a little cooler - but not as much as I'd hoped. It still gets up to 220, but doesn't go over it. After the fan is on for a few minutes, it drops down to around 170-180ish. Not bad.

I think the only reason I don't see a huge improvement like everyone else is because I still have my A/C condenser blocking a little of the air flow. Still, overall it was well worth it!

EDIT: BTW, except for two thin rubber strips at the bottom, it fit so snug that I didn't need anything else!

Are you guys using the Griffin custom fit Camaro radiator or a universal fit?

Part #6-282AE-BAX for 82-92 Camaro.

Nope, I just used the universal. Part number 475-125272-X. Works fine, especially since I don't need a trans cooler.

Good to know! I've thumbed through my radiator books at work and noticed the 3rd gen cars have the lower hose outlet higher than any other radiator (to clear the swaybar) and I expected to have to go with the custom set-up. Glad to hear I don't, but did you use factory-style molded hoses??

Nice car MurcoRS!

Yeah, I used the stock hoses without much problem. I needed to shorten the top hose by about an inch to clear my driver's side A/C compressor pulley, but not a big deal at all. The connections on the Griffin are the same as the hose diameter, so be prepared for a little fustration pushing the hoses on! They fit - but it's tight!

Oh, and if anything, the lower hose connection is as high up, if not higher than the stock radiator. No clearance issues.

I just got my griffin aluminum rad installed last night and it wsa a very very very tight fit. I can BARELY use the upper plastic radiator support thing. BUt it seems like a nice quality piece.

Yeah, I agree. Quality seems good, and it definatley fits nice and tight. - All radiator!

After finishing my rad and pump change I noticed it was still running a little warm (about 200). It would fluctuate from 170 -200 from time to time. Decided to check my hoses and voila! The bottom hose has no spring in it so it was collapsing on me. Changed to a hose with a spring from Gates. Hose number is 21324. I also changed out the water neck. Had a pos mr. gasket aluminum one. It was warping under heat and some fluid was leaking periodically. Found a cast iron one without the holes for the heater lines. Part number is W1595. I got them from Carquest. Now the car runs a steady 180... Also noticed that my upper hose does flex a little under throttle as well. May try to find a different one with a spring in it. I had to switch to the 84Z28 water neck and upper hose because of the HSR system. So its a heads up for you HSR guys as well. Other than that I really like the new setup now that I fixed the last "bug."

Hey, thanks for the info! AFAIK, stock hoses never had springs in them...is the part number for the Gates you posted a universal hose or molded? If it's molded, I'll get one tomorow!!

Not having any probs with my cooling system at all.....for now. But it's good insurance having a spring insert.

Its a fitted hose made by Gates for Carquest with the spring in it. I bought it by application. If the bottom hose has no spring in it then it needs one. It may seem like it doesnt but it will cause the temp to run warmer. I have tried to call Gates about their molded hoses but they never pick up the phone. Always have me on hold. If I can get a molded one then I will switch again. By molded I mean the spring is molded into the rubber. Is that what you meant? It may be that the stock 305's may not have had springs in them (not sure) but I bet the 350's did. After I bought the car and changed the hoses out the bottom one had the spring but I didnt know what its purpose was so I replace it with a non-spring hose. I think that with my new high flow pump it became more noticeable that I needed the spring in the hose. I also believe if you switched to spring you would notice a difference too.

Nope, the 350's have no spring in the lower hose. I have been searching for new hose and have come up empty. Most auto parts stores carry cheap hoses for our cars.

NAPA seems to have he best quality, but due to the shape of teh lower hose, they typically do not have an internal spring.

Both Gates and Goodyear make the universal hoses that have wire molded into the rubber. These seem to be hard to come by though.

I went ahead and ordered some new stainless steel hose from Mr. Gasket thru JEGS. This is hose is similar to Cool Flex, only a little cheaper. The down side is that this new hose in on back order.

the lower hose number is 21324. It has the spring in it and fits all 82-92.

Most molded-hoses made today do not come with springs since the advent of polymer-stranded inner hose cores, and most companies found the springs to be little more than another source of cooling system corrosion. Have a spring in the lower hose come apart and wedge inside your $200.00 aluminum water pump, you'll grow to hate them!
The best option out there IMHO is the Goodyear "hi-miler" silicone hoses. I've had a set on my car for over 7 years now and they still look and perform like new. I pulll off a hose and check them occasionally, still perfect inside and no soft spots. They aren't cheap (about $70.00) but they are a tremendous value...

So tell us where to get them and are they by application or just universal?

Yeah, I know which ones MurcoRS is talking about. And I agree, that they're good quality hoses.

I've seen corroded spring inserts too.....but only on cars that either didn't have enough antifreeze in them, or running straight water.

There is an exact-fit set for our cars, available through Summit Racing
for $79.99.
The only hoses not included are the small "snail hoses" behind the block, I hate those dang thangs!!

I have ordered the Griffing 31X19 rad as well. I am running a carb setup and would like to know the part number for an upper rad hose. The one I have had more bends in it than there needs to be.

I cant remember the part number for my original hose. I am using the 84 carb hose for the upper because I switched to HSR system and had to change the water neck. You may have to go with a universal flow hose. I am changing my top hose for the same reason you are. When I put in the griffin it pinched the top hose a little. I am going to try a 69Z28 upper hose. It has less bends. Off to the parts store right now to find one. Will let you know what I come up with.

That would be great if you post the part number for the hose. I live in the boonies so I want to get everything I need in one trip.

I am going to have to use a flex hose with the spring in it (which is fine). I bought two of them cuz I dont know which one will be toolong or too short. The part numbers are 1217 and 1220. They are Checker Auto numbers.

in my 89 i have a heater hose that goes where the yellow circle is

what am i saposed to do with the hose?

what yellow circle? Any heater hoses can either go to your water pump or to the intake manifold. There are openings on both for heater hoses.

I used flex hose number 1220...

A heads up for you guys...I was adjusting my timing and I noticed my top flex hose was slipping off the rad. I had tightened it down as much I could. It seems that the hoses are trying to slide off the new rad? Anyway, I tightened the clamps down with a socket and ratchet instead of a screwdriver. Seems to have worked. Almost lost my top hose! Even tho I used a screwdriver there was still plenty more to tighten by using the ratchet.

sorry i forgot the pic