I have a carb on my car now and the facotry heater valve is just ruining my engine bay it just sits there on the valve cover with no function the hose that ran from the intake to it is now plugged on the valve and i have no hoses going to the intake how can i delete this thing completley?

there must be something holding it in there?

does it have a hose running to the heater core still?

from the factory theres 3 hoses one running to the t fitting on the frame rail another to the fire wall and another to the intake the on to the intake is caped i want to kno what ill have to do to bypass it completly

Hold on, I'll go look at how I have mine

a hose connects the radiator to the frame rail tube. at the halfway point on that it splits to the water valve directly, which continues on to the intake throttle body, which you now have capped

continue on through the frame rail tube it goes to the heater core, and then out of the heater core and back to the water valve.

if your system is working properly with the intake side capped off (which I don't understand how it would considering there is no continuous flow of coolant, it just would kind of circle in and out of the heatercore the same coolant it starts with.....if it even does that at all with your setup)

then you should be able to take the hose that goes from the heater core to the water valve, and plug it directly into the T fitting on the frame rail tube.

this will do pretty much exactly what your current setup is doing right now. whether or not that is the proper way to do it.....i have no idea, but if you like the way it works now, and your heat works and stays hot, then you should have no problems running it like how i said
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I have mine from the intake outlet to the heater core inlet, then heater core outlet to water pump inlet. And thats it. This setup really sucks in the heat of summer though. during summer I just totally bypas my heater core by running the intake outlet to the water pump inlet.

But mine is on a carbed engine.

I think I did almost the same thing on my 90 Bird with tbi, but I had to plug one of the lines off. I think I plugged the T fitting on the frame rail line

I can remember a time when I really could have used that diagram above, thats a very handy diagram.

I removed mine when I did my TPI swap. I removed the original setup completely including the hard metal line down on the frame rail. I then just ran a hose from the fitting on the front of the intake to the heater core and another from the heater core back to the radiator and routed them down on the frame rail where the metal line was.

What did you do with the heater hose inlet on the water pump?

so basically i can get rid of the valve by taking the bottom hose and connecting it to the t fitting on the frame rail eliminating the top and side hose on the valve completely?

ya but it won't work right......i don't know how yours is working right now but it can't be correct. if you do it the way I said then it will do the same thing yours is doing now with the valve there....but it's not right, it can't be.

do it the way mongoose said.

but it can be done the way i said this is not a car i drive in the winter it doesnt matter if it works aslong as i can bypass it and not have coolant shooting inside the car

My pump (aftermarket) has a place for a fitting but I used the pipe plug that came with it to close it off since my car never had a line from that point on the pump.

Holy crap I have never seen so many guys not know what there talking about.

Cap the fitting on the fram rail. Get a T and run the heater core to the back of the intake done.

Its all 5/8 fittings.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tb...n-up-your.html (How to: Clean up your TBI Engine bay... cheap!)
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Links was bad

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tb...n-up-your.html (How to: Clean up your TBI Engine bay... cheap!)

i heard of doing it that way but my car is carb'd not tpi i have no hose running to the intake anywere theres 3 lines going to my heater valve bottom top and a side. The bottom goes to the t fitting on the frame rail, the top goes to the heater core and the side went into the throttle body on my tpi setup. The line that goes to the throttle body is completely gone i ahve the heater valve caped off on the side.

the way i said will work exactly how you have it right now except there will be no valve.

yes i kno i was just making sure the guy above me knew that i had no hoses going to the intake.

Exactly how do we all not know what we're talking about?

Im just saying this is pretty simple.

Agreed, but speaking for myself I had a purpose that required the method I used : cleaning up the engine bay.

Ahhhh yes the old coolant shooting all over the inside of my car..... I had that issue up at St. Ignace last year. My dad and I rigged up a bypass right where the two hoses enter and exit the heater core. I was looking at it yesterday thinking, boy what a shame and a mess all that is.

We cut the hoses off of the heater core inlet/outlet, put together a somewhat fugly bypass out of about $5 worth of pipes and elbows from the hardware store. I'll see if I can get a picture soon and post it for ya.

Deleting the heater valve means
a) You don't care about hot coolant through the heater core
during the summer, or
b) You're not concerned about a heater at all.

If a), run a hose from somewhere up front (a fitting in either the
water pump or intake manifold) to one side of the heater core, then
from the other side of the heater core to the small radiator fitting.

If b), you can remove ALL the hoses, plug up the w-p/in-man,
and cap the rad. fitting.

If, however you want heat in the winter, but not the summer,
some kind of "T" fitting is necessary with the control valve. The flow
direction for carb, starts with one of the "up front" fittings mentioned
above. Substitute this for the hose from the TPI manifold.

Clear as a bell, I hope... Good luck.

kk

A) With the temp slider on cold I have no issues with heat coming in the car during the summer.
B) My heater works just fine in the winter, it'll run you out of the car if you don't crack the window a bit.
I've also seen that my car runs cooler now than before with the valve removed.

FYI:
1. heater core ALWAYS has close to engine temp coolent in it.. it just takes longer to heat up with the bypass..
2. unless the selector is on heat, theres an air door that blocks 95% of the air from going thru the heater core.... so no.. you wont get heat in the summer.
3. the factory HVAC box was never redesigned when the bypass was added... this means that your car will operate the same way all the previous years did without it. it was actually designed to not need it.... removing it does not significantly effect HVAC operation.

Sidebar about the heater valve plumbing...

On the TPI set-up's, I'm not sure what the flow pattern is
OUT of the manifold into the control valve. But on the TBI
set-ups, the outlet to the control valve is at the BACK of
manifold, effectively increasing coolant flow through the
back of the engine -- one of GM's better ideas. When I
understood the significance of that, keeping the control
valve became an easier decision. However I did relocate
it, & changed the large metal T-tube for a smaller config,
with hoses. But then I'm on old codger, to whom creature
comforts like cold AC, & quick heating are more important
than a half second less e.t., and a bare bones eng. bay.