CoolingDiscuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Alright I am having some serious cooling problems. After about 20 minutes of driving I am usually in the red zone and when I shut the car off the coolant overflow bottle is boiling. The radiator I have now is older than me and it has a bunch of gunk inside of it even though I have flushed it twice (I'll post a pic in the morning). There is a small crack on the outside of the radiator that leaks coolant/water. I semi-share this car with my dad, I drive it and pay for everything to be fixed and he helps me install stuff + he is the 'owner' of it. Anyways, my dad wants me to send the radiator to a place to get it restored but I just wanna buy a new one because this thing is just a hunk of junk and I cant decide on what radiator to buy.
Also I am going to leave the radiator cap off, start and run the car, and stick a thermometer in it to see if the thermometer matches the gauge temps. Although I don't think that is the major issue at hand. I also read on here not to get a 3 core radiator and that a 2 core is best for street use.
Get the Autozone radiator. It's cheap, a stock replacement, and it cools well (I'm using the same one). I don't think you need to do a thermometer test since the coolant overflow is boiling. I think it's safe to say that it is too hot.
Alright maybe I dont 'need' a new radiator even though I want one.
I just realized that this whole time the fan hasn't even been running at all (more wiring issues). I tested the fan by turning on my car and turning the a/c on and letting the car get hot and the fan didn't run at all. So I ran a wire from the positive side of the battery to the hot wire that connects to the fan and the fan started up. Good to know that the old fan still works so I don't 'have' to buy a new anything just re-wire stuff.
Here are a few pics of my junk:
A look inside the radiator. Is this a 3 row?
Outside of radiator.
Small radiator leak.
Big ugly fan.
A cracked radiator should be replaced if the crack is in the plastic. I don't know of any filler//sealer that will seal plastic that has had anti-freeze in it. Any one have any ideas on how he can seal the cracked plastic??(EDIT) Yes that is a 3 row.
Already have. Thats where I got that 3 core radiator link from, I'm thinking about buying one if there are still any in stock.
The dude told me when I bought mine that it was a possibility he couldn't fill my order because there weren't many in stock but I think he was bs'ing me.
__________________ 1992 Camaro RS 383 Stroked SuperRam
Check it out here at CarDomain.com
Oh damn, from my point of view I hope he was bs'ing you lol.
Anyways thanks for the heads up. I guess I'll start searching for a backup in case that guy doesn't have anymore. =/
If you're willing to spend the money, check out BeCool radiators. I've got one in mine and I haven't had any problems with it.
I did figure out that my temp gauge and radiator fan switch are about 40* off...the fan switch is supposed to turn on at 185, but my gauge says 220 or near it. So at least part of my problem is my gauge is telling me the engine is hotter than it really is.
Alright I am having some serious cooling problems. After about 20 minutes of driving I am usually in the red zone and when I shut the car off the coolant overflow bottle is boiling. The radiator I have now is older than me and it has a bunch of gunk inside of it even though I have flushed it twice (I'll post a pic in the morning). There is a small crack on the outside of the radiator that leaks coolant/water. I semi-share this car with my dad, I drive it and pay for everything to be fixed and he helps me install stuff + he is the 'owner' of it. Anyways, my dad wants me to send the radiator to a place to get it restored but I just wanna buy a new one because this thing is just a hunk of junk and I cant decide on what radiator to buy.
Also I am going to leave the radiator cap off, start and run the car, and stick a thermometer in it to see if the thermometer matches the gauge temps. Although I don't think that is the major issue at hand. I also read on here not to get a 3 core radiator and that a 2 core is best for street use.
Still haven't replaced the radiator and now there are multiple leaks... I am having to refill it every 2 days.
I get paid tomorrow and i am going to buy a new radiator. Suggestions?
1core 2core 3core?
Yeah I want to replace the radiator but i'm not sure on what kind to get, if the one i have now is 3 row then i want to get another 3 row im thinking.
I work in a Rad Shop.
The rad in your picture looks like an aftermarket copper/brass rad which plugs up faster than plastic/aluminum.
It also looks like 3 rows of 3/8" tubes which is pretty much the same as a factory style 1 row 1" tube. The plastic/aluminum will cool just as well as your current one as aluminum outcools copper/brass marginally due to the tubes being vacuum welded to the fins, wheras the copper/brass suffers heat transfer interference due to the solder.
The aluminum one is much lighter, easier to keep clean and cheaper.
When copper went up over 300% in the mid 2000's, most worldwide manufacturers re-tooled to produce plastic/aluminum for most vehicles so the guy not having stock on a 3row c/brass rad is no surprise.
By the way, the picture you took from the front is your A/C Condenser.
One more thing...
Try to get a rad with a stainless plate-style transmission cooler.
They last longer than the brass concentric ( round tube ) ones and are harder to cross-thread/strip during install.
Do they make a BeCool or any other brand that is smaller and lighter than stock, but still cools as good or better ? I know it is kind of cotradicting...but just had to ask .
If you want stock cooling and money savings, get what the parts store will sell you.
You posted a rad for $94. That will do, as long as it is for your car with A/C.
Look inside it and make sure, even if it is only 1 row, that it is 1" thick.
Look inside the filler neck, where the rad cap goes, and be sure that you have close to 1" of tubes, or 1 tube that is 1" thick. What I'm saying is measure the tubes and see that they equal close to 1". You can eyeball the tube size.
Mostly aftermarket tubes, in aluminum rads, are 5/8" or 1". Get the 1" one as you need the cooling for your A/C.
This will do you fine for stock cooling for your buggy.
Don't spend anymore than the $95 you posted as you don't need the big stuff and you stated you wanted to go cheap.
The $300 rad you posted is a waste of money and install time for you unless you plan on running a 1/4 mile car with huge HP and aren't going to drive it to school/work.
Plus, they aren't as reliable as some think. If your system is out of whack, you can burn them up with Electrolysis.
Just buy the stock rad @ the parts store.
Make sure all your body/chassis grounds are intact, your coolant is clean and not smelly, and if everything is running as it should, you'll be fine.
Greg
