CoolingDiscuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
I have a 89 Iroc with a new 350hp crate 350. It is carb. I have both fans coming on at the same time and a 160 thermostat. My fans come on about 180 and kick off at 165. Is this good or too low? I have the probe that goes between the fins in the radiator. It seems to work real well.
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
I think it depends on the motor, as no two are the same. Most days, even in the dead of summer or the coldest winter day, on the highway my guage is reading about 170. In town it warms up quick and will easily rise to 220. My fans are set to come on at 185 and off at 170 +/-. But my point is the car runs fine at all these temps. But Ive also had Chevy V8's in the past that seemed to run better at other temps, some being warmer (the OEM TBI 305 previously in the car liked to be warmer about 200), while others I've had liked it colder. So I'd say whatever works best for YOUR car.
Run it as hot as you can, 160 is likely too cold. A 180 heavy duty stat or 195 high flow might be what you need.
You want to run what ever temp gives you a stabile temp, if your temp is swinging up and down by 40 or 50 degrees your cooling system will never propery pressureize, if its not pressureizing then you could have surface boiling, that much tempture change could be enough heat cycle the metal, cause stress and possibly cracks or gaskets to let go.
Plus over cooled engines ware out faster.
I would take a hot stabile temp over a cooler bouncing temp any day.
__________________ 85 Iroc Z28 T-tops, Bilstein struts/shocks, Eibach prokit, SS flexable break lines, Friction Master ceramic pads, Bendix reman calipers, Rear drums 100% rebuilt. Brand new LARS "FE2" steering box, Spohn fabed strut towers, new Moog draglink tierod, Energy swaybar bushings and swaybar links all around, Poly A-arm bushings + new ball joint.
Electric cooling pump, electric fans, high flow 180 stat, 20lb cap. http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4 .
i found an article on optimal cooling temps in one of my
corvette mags,said most of the nascar engine builders
like the engines to run at 220-230*as they feel that
temperature gives the best compromize between lower
cylinder wall friction and preventing hot spots in the
heads.
I use 195* in my cars.
Why is that?Just curious cause I run a 160* stat cause of the summer heat here.Plus it doesnt get too cold here.Both my fans run all the time(on purpose)Runs between 180 and 200 in summer time depending on traffic.Runs 170 or so in winter.I had heard with my alluminum heads and higher compression it was a little better to keep it running cool.But if that temp is good enough for nascar its good enough for me.It sure seems to run better cool.
__________________
5.7,Stock TPI,LT4 production cam w/1.6 R.R.
ZZ4 heads,Hooker 2460 headers w/full 3" exhaust
2500 stall,3.42 gear,suspension mods.Full list of mods in VB garage.
Last edited by Shadygrady; 11-05-2009 at 02:04 AM.
All I know is that the old guys, racers and the old racer guys really know their stuff, listen to them.
If they have been doing some thing a certain way for 20-30 years it means it works and no one has found a better way.
I do know that motor oil doesn't really start to fully protect and work like it should until its heated to about the boiling point of water. I have herd that for the antiware addtive ZDDP to activate it takes nearly 1000 degrees and high pressure between metal on metal moving parts for the chemical to break down and coat the contacting parts with zinc.
Plus heating your motor oil well above the boiling point of water drives out the moisture, which you know what moisture inside an engine can do. In addition to rusting surfaces it will allow the formation of acids.
I have 113 casting aluminum corvette heads in the machine shop getting resurfaced and stuff, I plan on running them with a 195HD or 195HF thermostat. I expect strong low end power, out standing fuel economy and long engine life with them.