Iroc 87

I have a 87 camaro iroc-z 350 TPI. My timing is set to stock. My temp is running at 235 after warmup and while driving. i shut it done after it reaches 240-250, worried im overheating! What should the temp be at?

Kozusnik

Sounds like us two are battling the same war with cars running warm... I just read normal temp is 220. But I am one that does not like to see 200 as a temp....

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yes that is to hot. 210-225 is basically normal depending on how accurate your gauge is. At that point both fans should be kicked in and cooling so it should drop the temp down.

Yours sounds like it's not cooling at all.

Is your air dam intact? It should be a black piece of plastic directly under the radiator to act as a scoop to divert air.

Are the fans kicking in and running?

Are they aftermarket ones? It's an easy mistake to switch the polarity and have aftermarket fans push air instead of pull causing overheating when driving.

Is your thermostat opening? You should see coolant gauge drop once it warms up to around 180-195 depending on which thermostat you have in there.

Is your radiator cap and thermostat fairly new? It's an easy swap to replace them. Cap is a direct replacement and they can wear out and need to be replaced. Thermostat is a 15 minute job to swap it. You'll lose some coolant and need new thermostat housing gasket.

Have you checked the coolant level in the radiator?

Is the coolant clean? If it's murky or has debris you probably have other issues.

the solitaire

You forgot about a possible plugged radiator, have the rest pretty much covered though.

Do not open the radiator cap when warm. Open it up only when the car is still cold, then let it run (the car), and wait for it to reach somewhere around 190 degrees. See if the coolant in your radiator moves.

My first guess is airdam however.
With a good airdam you will hardly ever see temperatures over 200 degrees provided you're actually moving.

DJP87Z28

For my car after replacing the original radiator (completely blocked behind the A/C condensor) . I am back to normal again...180 deg or lower Highwal & 180/200 deg City with the A/C on.

bad_to_the_bone

well mine with a big block going down the highway it runs like 170-180 and trough town it runs around 190 -210 max and when i had the ole 350 in the car i never went higher than 180

deadbird

For an '87, only the primary will run at 220°F (ECM controlled).
The secondary fan will only run at 238°F (fan switch temperature). It does not run for anything else.

RollinLoud

If the coolant is murky does that mean there is a blown head gasket or two?

Apeiron

It means you need to flush your coolant.

87IROC420

what temp are stock fans on a 1987 iroc 305 tpi supposed to come on .

deadbird

The third post above yours might hold the answer. A little reading goes a long way.

87IROC420

yeah i guess your right . i think my guage is wrong because the primary only goes on when the guage hits 240 ? how can i check this ? what should i change first .

89mulletbird

iTrader: (4)

See my post about the temperature sender. If it's aftermarket it could be way off.

87IROC420

all stock guages

89mulletbird

iTrader: (4)

I meant the sending unit in the driver's side head. If it was ever replaced with a non AC Delco unit it could be the reason your gauge is showing higher than actual coolant temp.

87IROC420

i will start with that . ill make sure i get an a/c delco temp sender because the one in it probobally isnt stock .

89mulletbird

iTrader: (4)

I have an extra one, send me an email if you want it.

deadbird

The sender for the gauge is (IIRC) should be 1260ohm at 100°F and somewhere around 50ohm at 260°.

I wouldn't put tons of faith in a part just because it says ACDelco...

87IROC420

ok my guages arent right . i finally got a reading on datamaster and my fan kicked on at 226 does that sound right ?

Jersey89GTA

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely perfect .... I think its setup to kick on at 227, close enough.

50/50 AF boils at 235F, not much room for error, but designed to run hot for emissions and fuel economy.

deadbird

even though I say 220°F all the time, I think it's actually supposed to be 222° for turn on (iirc). The gauge isn't 2° accurate so...

Keep in mind, adding 15psi over over standard atmospheric pressure, raises the boiling point of regular water to 250°F. One reason why it's a good idea to replace your radiator cap on a every few year basis to maintain proper cooling system pressure.

89irocz350carb

Alright so I bought an 89 iroc z 350 the guy who had it before said the throttle body was messed up so he put a new intake on it and put a carb. on it. The other day have it a car wash and the under wash broke my fan temp sensor switch so I replaced all that with new connector and sensor switch fan still doesn't want to come on I put new antifreeze in it and still runs at 220 with fan on cause I rigged it to run all the time by Manually hooking a wire to the battery just for the day to see how it would run. I'm just wanted some advice what else I could do I'm thinking maybe a relay but wanting more ideas first. Please help me out!!!

Ron U.S.M.C.

You must replace the thermostat to a lower temp.. Your fan is only keeping the coolant in the radiator cool. That coolant must start to flow sooner.
A 180* thermostat ,with a fan switch that comes on at 190* is what I run.
Perfect IMO.

Here's an option =

Run your fans positive wire to the main power junction terminal located near the battery ( with a inline fuse just before the connection. I use a 30amp ) and the fans ground like this.

Here's the "adjustable", temperature controlled switch for $17.99 and how you can wire it in. A very simple circuit.

You might need to put in the Part # 733653

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=267187_0_0_



I have two that are wired differently. A little more complex.

ThirdGenKen

My 1987 Iroc has a 383 stroker with a supercharger. On cool days and highway driving it doesn't get over 200. On a hot day in stop and go traffic it gets up betweet 200 and 210.

89irocz350carb

I have changed the thermostat also. Forgot to include that in my last post

rusty vango

well, let me ask this, if you have a 195 thermo and your engine runs at 220. that being a 25 deg difference. that's about right is it not?

89irocz350carb

I'm wondering if I need to flick my system also yet I have put new antifreeze in just to get it go to see how the fan acts with new sensor switch so il try flinching it then doing it all over

89irocz350carb

Flush, flushing****

Ron U.S.M.C.

So you installed a 180* thermostat ?

89irocz350carb

No I was told it was suppose to have a 195

Ron U.S.M.C.

The stock thermostat is 195*and is intended to have the car run at IMO and MANY others the "way to high* stock temperatures above 220* .

The 180* thermostat has a huge demand here because it is in-between the 160* and 195* giving you the best of both worlds. Not too cold for winter and not too hot for summer.

That way with a fan that kicks on at 190* and back off at 180* the cars running temperature should be between those temperatures and that IMO and again many others is consider perfect.

dr3wberryTM

It's completely normal. Cars run better while cooler, but have more emissions. Replace your thermostat and it should drop a little. Try 170°

dr3wberryTM

Very true! I have a 170° Stat and it runs way cooler. By like 35°

SRKLEGIN

I had the same problem and to overcome a lot of the cooling issues, I replaced the radiator, changed the 195 deg. thermostat, both upper and lower radiator hoses, and installed a Edelbrock(R) high flow performance water pump...she runs 210-220 in the city and roughly 195-200 on the freeway. My 86 is running the stock fan.

dr3wberryTM

If I'm not mistaken, the fan should kick on around 230. Stock. A lot of people dont like this, and install a manual fan switch. The car should run anywhere between 200 and 220 normal temp while idling. While your in motion it will cool down a bit from the air dam.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Here's another simple circuit.

This circuit is what I used. Twice. One for each fan.

It uses the same "adjustable", temperature controlled switch as the circuit above in reply # 23 for $17.99 and here's how you can wire it in.

You might need to put in the Part # 733653

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=267187_0_0_


=




Basic =