Car was over heating and now it's not
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Car: 88 Z28 Sport
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Car was over heating and now it's not
I just pick up on an 88 RS with a 350 swap in it and it had an over heating problem.
I've removed the thermostat, flushed the radiator (because it was brown), the water pumps brand new, and I've also swapped the burnt electric fan with a manual fan and all new shrouds. But the thing still overheated.
Now I just ordered new monroe shocks/struts and a couple stut mounts since mine were shot and now the car's fine. I don't even get the half way point any more.
My question is, what gives?? Did the suspension really free up that much more air flow?? I know all of mine was shot and the new ones raised me up about 3-4 inches but still. Anyone have any input on this im baffled lol
I've removed the thermostat, flushed the radiator (because it was brown), the water pumps brand new, and I've also swapped the burnt electric fan with a manual fan and all new shrouds. But the thing still overheated.
Now I just ordered new monroe shocks/struts and a couple stut mounts since mine were shot and now the car's fine. I don't even get the half way point any more.
My question is, what gives?? Did the suspension really free up that much more air flow?? I know all of mine was shot and the new ones raised me up about 3-4 inches but still. Anyone have any input on this im baffled lol
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Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
Its most likely coincidental. When was it overheating? Idle ... Crusig speeds? Both? Is your airdam attached underneath? Cooling fan(s) coming on?
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Car: 88 Z28 Sport
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
It was over heating when I was cruising on the freeway at about 70-75 mph but not at idle and I've swapped out the electric fan for a manual so its always moving air. and the air dam Isn't there but I have one on the way just in case but the cars fine now. It doesn't even get over the half way mark. But it just really made me scratch my head when it did that
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Car: 89 Black IROC-Z convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
It may have been a bubble in the system. I agree that it was probably coincidental but I'd still put the air dam back on.
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Car: 88 Z28 Sport
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
Can A bulged top radiator hose really cause an overheating problem? I'm just curious because I do notice when the car got hot before it buldged up a little bit by the filler neck
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
If the hose was bulging, replace it. If you don't it will burst, and it will happen at a time that's less convenient than now.
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Car: 89 Black IROC-Z convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
A bulging hose is typically a hose that is breaking down and getting ready to split. Change it now. It's an easy and relatively inexpensive fix as long as you're not on the side of the road miles away from home. Also check to make sure that your radiator cap is at the right pressure rating for your car.
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Car: 88 Z28 Sport
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
A bulging hose is typically a hose that is breaking down and getting ready to split. Change it now. It's an easy and relatively inexpensive fix as long as you're not on the side of the road miles away from home. Also check to make sure that your radiator cap is at the right pressure rating for your car.
I plan on replacing it pay day. Now it's not buldging anymore one when the car was over heating before but now it looks fine. I was just wondering if that was tied into anything? But non the less it'll still be replaced this friday
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Car: 1971 Camaro
Engine: 427
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
You replaced your struts and it raised the car 3-4" ?????
The lack of air dam will definatly cause overheating at speeds.
The lack of air dam will definatly cause overheating at speeds.
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Car: 88 Z28 Sport
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
Yeah the previous owner blew the entire suspension including the strut mounts and once I replaced all the shocks and struts ($88.80 for Monroe shipped to my door ) it lifted my car up a substantial amount. That's what I was figuring as well but I was unsure just wanted to ask someone elses opinion on the subject.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
Just curious, what degree thermostat did you put back in.
#12
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Car: 88 Z28 Sport
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L V6
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
Our cars NEED the air dam otherwise they will overheat, as you found out. That's always the first thing to look for when overheating at speed but not when stopped.
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Car: 1991 Christine Z28
Engine: RV Cam and Intake 350 SBC
Transmission: 5speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08 ls Posi
Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
Like when you're at school about a half an hour away, so you drive really fast because your aluminum radiator was cooling air too and you don't want it to get too hot.
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Re: Car was over heating and now it's not
I'm sure there's a sticky on over-heating thirdgens.
I've had a bad T-stat before. It SUCKS. Forever to get up to temp, and exceedingly cold on the highway. I was running a 160* t-stat on the GTA last year, but I think this year I'll put it up to a 170 or 180*. 160* was too cold and the car would run about 160* at highway speeds.
In the winter you will absolutely wear out your engine if you don't run a T-stat. The oil will never get hot, lubrication will be poor and it'll wear things out faster overall. And if you aren't running a good mix of coolant then it may even cause the coolant in the radiator to freeze.
I've had a bad T-stat before. It SUCKS. Forever to get up to temp, and exceedingly cold on the highway. I was running a 160* t-stat on the GTA last year, but I think this year I'll put it up to a 170 or 180*. 160* was too cold and the car would run about 160* at highway speeds.
In the winter you will absolutely wear out your engine if you don't run a T-stat. The oil will never get hot, lubrication will be poor and it'll wear things out faster overall. And if you aren't running a good mix of coolant then it may even cause the coolant in the radiator to freeze.
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