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12-29-2005, 03:13 PM
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#1 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Megasquirt engine managment install
Hi guys, I just finished installing megasquirt on my 97 mustang.
I also have a fastburn 350 that is in the process of a megasquirt conversion, it is a very impressive and inexpensive engine managment that can do wideband realtime tuning. Just thought I'd share this with the thirdgen community. Any questions let me know.
First what is megasquirt? MS is basically a standalone fuel and timing management computer. Think of it as a version of your stock ford ECU without a couple of extra functions (emissions control for example) and completely 100% user adjustable.
I have installed MS as fuel control only, although it will work with timing control also. The stock ford ECU REMAINS IN PLACE AND WORKING. The only thing the ECU does not now control is injector pulsewidth. Every other function (emissions, tranny control, idle air, EGR, AC etc) works exactly as stock. I have been driving around today for approx 40 miles today without the check engine light coming on.
You can control timing also, you set up a 12x12 timing table based on map values and RPM, and you can also vary it on temp.
Advantages of megasquirt.
1. Completely user adjustable, in real time as you drive. Any mod you make can be tuned without a trip to a tuner or mail-order tune. You can tune for your exact engine on the dyno, road, or track, much more accurate than a non-custom mail order tune. Think of it as unlimited, instant chips.
2. No more MAF worries. Megasquirt used a MAP sensor; the maf can be removed or just left in place. You do not have to buy an expensive aftermarket maf once you start making big power.
3. You can easily go back to stock without touching the ECU internals, my setup can be returned to 100% stock in about 30 seconds.
4. Logging: All variables can be logged on a normal laptop for later review or online discussion.
5. Free software: All megasquirt software is free, tuning, logging, graphing, etc
6. Wideband AFR auto tuning. If you run megasquirt 2, or megasquirt I extra, you can feed real-time wideband info into the computer and it will tune the injector PW's to hit the exact AFR you specify.
Last edited by mhaskell : 12-29-2005 at 03:20 PM.
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12-29-2005, 03:16 PM
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#2 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Step ONE: Build or buy a megasquirt controller http://www.diyautotune.com/ $130 unassembled http://www.rs-autosport.com/v2.htm $249 assembled
I recommend you buy a wire harness also, but it’s not 100% needed.
Here is mine after I assembled it: 
Step TWO: Connect the wire harness to the main wiring harness.
The great part of this install is that not a single under hood wire has to be touched! It is helpful if you remove the pass seat!! Remove the kick panel on the pass side of the car and pullback the rug. You should see the factory ECU and several connectors. unplug the connectors and unscrew the factory ECU connector.
I found the factory wiring layout online and took the megasquirt layout to produce a single conversion schematic. Simply slice the wires from the megasquirt to the factory pin's except for the injector wires.
What I did was take the injector wires from the engine and make a 6 PIN MALE connector with them. I then made a 6 PIN FEMALE connector on the stock ECU. I then made a separate 6 PIN FEMALE connector on the megasquirt inject. wires.
This way the engine harness can go to either the stock ECU (for 100% stock operation) or to the megasquirt ( for custom tuning). This way you can switch very quickly between tuned and stock for emissions tests, warranty work, or if you have problems with the megasquirt. 
After making all these connections ( I strongly recommend soldering all wires with heat shrink) you can connector all the factory wires and bolt the ECU connector back in place.
Here is my harness ready to be tucked away… 
After you finish the wiring it is time to check all the sensor values in megasquirt. One modification needs to be done to the megasquirt however. In order to share the stock CLT and IAT sensors you need to remove the bias resistors on the MS board, they are the two blue resistors shown below. 
That’s it, you can now check the sensor values with the engine running with the stock ECU controlling the injectors.
Here is my first data log graph; you can see all the sensor values are correct, except the tach which was wired incorrectly at the time. 
You are now ready to tune the megasquirt... I’m not going to restate the entire process,it has been documented fully in the megasquirt manual.
Manual http://www.megasquirt.info/v22manual/mtabcon.htm
Homepage http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
Forums www.msefi.com | |
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12-29-2005, 03:17 PM
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#3 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Wanted to add that a vacumn line needs to be run to the megasquirt controller also. I spliced into the line next to the brake booster. I then ran the line through the factory rubber grommet and over to the pass side of the car.
Total project cost was $130 for the megasquirt, $10 or $15 for the DB37 connector, and another 10-15 for the wiring, solder, tape, and wireloom.
Completely tunable engine managment for $160  | |
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01-04-2006, 04:19 PM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Ft Myers, Florida
Posts: 3,084
Car: 1989 GTA convertible Engine: 355 bowtie Transmission: MIA..... Axle/Gears: DTS/Moser 10-bolt | cost on the mega squirt system varies depending on what model/options you get. - I've researched and researched on it. I'm going to be buying my 1st one within the next month. Everyone i've talked to, who actually has one, loves it. ESPECIALLY for the price.
__________________ 1989 lead sled still awating its transformation Quote: originally posted by sofakingdom
I've heard all sorts of things about "stronger gears" and all that, from any number of sources. Thing is, I've got a shelf full of T-5s with wasted cases, that EAT any gears I can put in them. Because it's not the GEARS that are the root cause of failure, it's THE CASE. Until you strengthen the CASE, you could put in gears forged in the fiery furnaces of Hell by 10,000-year-old gnomes from an alloy of purest virgin nonobtanium with just enough irreplacium added to make them one-of-a-kind, and the case will STILL stretch and allow those gears to misalign and they'll tear up. Frankly I wouldn't spend another dime on trying to make a T-5 survive behind some power. Oh wait.... I don't have to, I finally woke up and got a clue and swapped in something else; specifically, a T-56
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- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again? | |
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01-04-2006, 04:38 PM
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#5 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Quote: Originally posted by Shagwell
cost on the mega squirt system varies depending on what model/options you get. - I've researched and researched on it. I'm going to be buying my 1st one within the next month. Everyone i've talked to, who actually has one, loves it. ESPECIALLY for the price. | Basically you have 4 choices
megasquirt 1, V 2.2
Megasquirt 1, V3.0
megasquirt 2, V2.2
megasquirt 2, V3.0
You can read about the advantages for each, but for most applications the MS1, V2.2 with a wideband will do far more than you need. | |
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01-07-2006, 06:29 AM
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#6 | | TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Chicago area
Posts: 350
Car: 87 Z-28 Engine: 383 HSR w/supercharger, AFR heads Transmission: 700r4 w/2500 stall Axle/Gears: 3:73 | I am in the final steps of assembling my Megasquirt II V3.0. I have never taken on a project like this, but it is going very well. Just like it states in the directions, if you take the time to read and learn this is a great project.
So far I probably have 10 hours in actual build time and 50 hours of reading and research.
I sprung for the wiring harness for $60 from diyautotune.com. It is very nice and worth every penny. I have the V3.0 board full kit (including case), stimulator, wiring harness, lead bender, and serial port cable. All in all I have about $360 into it so far.
I look forward to posting once I get it installed on the car and tuned.
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383 CID, AFR 195 Heads, Holley Stealth Ram, Paxton Supercharger @ 10PSI, Megasquirt DFI. | |
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01-08-2006, 09:38 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Ft Myers, Florida
Posts: 3,084
Car: 1989 GTA convertible Engine: 355 bowtie Transmission: MIA..... Axle/Gears: DTS/Moser 10-bolt | my 1st one will be going in my burban 4x4 daily driver. 335TPI - also going to be dropping a little screw-type blower on once I learn a little about the tuning. - I'm looking at the 3.0 II. That way I have the spark control and all, plus it looks to be the best way to go w/ the boost. - If all goes well, I'm gonna put the old 'bird back on efi w/ it.
__________________ 1989 lead sled still awating its transformation Quote: originally posted by sofakingdom
I've heard all sorts of things about "stronger gears" and all that, from any number of sources. Thing is, I've got a shelf full of T-5s with wasted cases, that EAT any gears I can put in them. Because it's not the GEARS that are the root cause of failure, it's THE CASE. Until you strengthen the CASE, you could put in gears forged in the fiery furnaces of Hell by 10,000-year-old gnomes from an alloy of purest virgin nonobtanium with just enough irreplacium added to make them one-of-a-kind, and the case will STILL stretch and allow those gears to misalign and they'll tear up. Frankly I wouldn't spend another dime on trying to make a T-5 survive behind some power. Oh wait.... I don't have to, I finally woke up and got a clue and swapped in something else; specifically, a T-56
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- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again? | |
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01-15-2006, 02:56 PM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 328
Car: 1987 Pontiac Trans Am GTA Engine: 355 Stealth Ram Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2600 stall Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.27 | shagwell dont forget about the 3rd one you have to help install it into the red dragon by the way car is running good let me know when you get it. caus eif your happy with it so will i | |
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01-17-2006, 12:01 AM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Moweaqua, Illinois
Posts: 1,390
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25'th anniversary he Engine: 355 TPI, Transmission: T-5 Axle/Gears: 10-bolt with 3.42 | It should also be mentioned that the processor speed for megasquirt is extremly fast. I could be driving and make a change to it. When I play with the 730 ecms with an Auto Prom I have to pull over and do it. I have never had a hickup with MS in my three years experience with any version.
Mega Squirt is also great because it can make up your VE table for you. You just have to make a log of your driving, then it feed it to one of it's free programs and it will create it's own VE table(Much better than VE master). Last I heard, Accel was just now coming out with that for about $800. | |
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01-17-2006, 03:59 PM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Ft Myers, Florida
Posts: 3,084
Car: 1989 GTA convertible Engine: 355 bowtie Transmission: MIA..... Axle/Gears: DTS/Moser 10-bolt |  $800 or free.....plus the cost of the ecu in the first place -this rates pretty high on the all-time list of no-brainers...
__________________ 1989 lead sled still awating its transformation Quote: originally posted by sofakingdom
I've heard all sorts of things about "stronger gears" and all that, from any number of sources. Thing is, I've got a shelf full of T-5s with wasted cases, that EAT any gears I can put in them. Because it's not the GEARS that are the root cause of failure, it's THE CASE. Until you strengthen the CASE, you could put in gears forged in the fiery furnaces of Hell by 10,000-year-old gnomes from an alloy of purest virgin nonobtanium with just enough irreplacium added to make them one-of-a-kind, and the case will STILL stretch and allow those gears to misalign and they'll tear up. Frankly I wouldn't spend another dime on trying to make a T-5 survive behind some power. Oh wait.... I don't have to, I finally woke up and got a clue and swapped in something else; specifically, a T-56
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- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again? | |
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02-06-2006, 09:25 PM
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#11 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 169
Car: 86 iroc Engine: yea it has one Transmission: yea it has one of them also (im 2 for 2) :) | "6. Wideband AFR auto tuning. If you run megasquirt 2, or megasquirt I extra, you can feed real-time wideband info into the computer and it will tune the injector PW's to hit the exact AFR you specify."
will the mega squirt kit (the one that cost 130) do this or is there somthing ells i need to get also | |
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02-06-2006, 10:35 PM
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#12 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 4,830
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy Engine: 305 TPI Transmission: 4L60 Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears | Quote: Originally posted by Shagwell
my 1st one will be going in my burban 4x4 daily driver. 335TPI - also going to be dropping a little screw-type blower on once I learn a little about the tuning. - I'm looking at the 3.0 II. That way I have the spark control and all, plus it looks to be the best way to go w/ the boost. - If all goes well, I'm gonna put the old 'bird back on efi w/ it. | Not to get off topic, but as in 335 chevy, a 305 bored .030" over with a 400 crank? | |
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02-06-2006, 11:44 PM
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#13 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Quote: Originally posted by high c
"6. Wideband AFR auto tuning. If you run megasquirt 2, or megasquirt I extra, you can feed real-time wideband info into the computer and it will tune the injector PW's to hit the exact AFR you specify."
will the mega squirt kit (the one that cost 130) do this or is there somthing ells i need to get also | you need to buy a wideband too. | |
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02-07-2006, 11:24 AM
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#14 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Ft Myers, Florida
Posts: 3,084
Car: 1989 GTA convertible Engine: 355 bowtie Transmission: MIA..... Axle/Gears: DTS/Moser 10-bolt | Quote: |
Not to get off topic, but as in 335 chevy, a 305 bored .030" over with a 400 crank?
| yep - MSII 3.0 ecu/Eaton M90 blower
__________________ 1989 lead sled still awating its transformation Quote: originally posted by sofakingdom
I've heard all sorts of things about "stronger gears" and all that, from any number of sources. Thing is, I've got a shelf full of T-5s with wasted cases, that EAT any gears I can put in them. Because it's not the GEARS that are the root cause of failure, it's THE CASE. Until you strengthen the CASE, you could put in gears forged in the fiery furnaces of Hell by 10,000-year-old gnomes from an alloy of purest virgin nonobtanium with just enough irreplacium added to make them one-of-a-kind, and the case will STILL stretch and allow those gears to misalign and they'll tear up. Frankly I wouldn't spend another dime on trying to make a T-5 survive behind some power. Oh wait.... I don't have to, I finally woke up and got a clue and swapped in something else; specifically, a T-56
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- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again? | |
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02-10-2006, 08:03 PM
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#15 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 169
Car: 86 iroc Engine: yea it has one Transmission: yea it has one of them also (im 2 for 2) :) | Quote: Originally posted by mhaskell
you need to buy a wideband too. | great i already have one! | |
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02-14-2006, 09:19 AM
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#16 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Quote: Originally posted by high c
great i already have one! | Cool! Good luck, where are you located? | |
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02-14-2006, 01:19 PM
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#17 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 169
Car: 86 iroc Engine: yea it has one Transmission: yea it has one of them also (im 2 for 2) :) | maine right by freeport | |
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02-15-2006, 09:07 AM
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#18 | | Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 65
Car: 87Z Engine: top secret Transmission: top secret | If no one here can tell me not to buy it I will order next week. MSII V3. I just hope the old 305 with 145,000 miles on it will last a few months so I can build a new short block(383) and custom exaust and not to mention modifying the LT1 intake to fit. Oh yes I knew I had a question here. Will the stock LT1 map sensor work here? Also When I upgrade the throttle body to a 58mm do I order one for the TPI or the LT1. And as far as the wideband goes do I just need the sensor or the analyser as well like the Innovative LM-1? Hell that thing cost like $500 for the LM-1 and LM-3. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am a dumbass. | |
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02-15-2006, 12:16 PM
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#19 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Moweaqua, Illinois
Posts: 1,390
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25'th anniversary he Engine: 355 TPI, Transmission: T-5 Axle/Gears: 10-bolt with 3.42 | Quote: Originally posted by 87z28fromhell
If no one here can tell me not to buy it I will order next week. MSII V3. I just hope the old 305 with 145,000 miles on it will last a few months so I can build a new short block(383) and custom exaust and not to mention modifying the LT1 intake to fit. Oh yes I knew I had a question here. Will the stock LT1 map sensor work here? Also When I upgrade the throttle body to a 58mm do I order one for the TPI or the LT1. And as far as the wideband goes do I just need the sensor or the analyser as well like the Innovative LM-1? Hell that thing cost like $500 for the LM-1 and LM-3. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am a dumbass. | Het an LT1 throttle body.
The MAP sensor will not be needed. MS comes with it's own on board MAP sensor. | |
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02-15-2006, 05:47 PM
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#20 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Quote: Originally posted by 87z28fromhell
If no one here can tell me not to buy it I will order next week. MSII V3. I just hope the old 305 with 145,000 miles on it will last a few months so I can build a new short block(383) and custom exaust and not to mention modifying the LT1 intake to fit. Oh yes I knew I had a question here. Will the stock LT1 map sensor work here? Also When I upgrade the throttle body to a 58mm do I order one for the TPI or the LT1. And as far as the wideband goes do I just need the sensor or the analyser as well like the Innovative LM-1? Hell that thing cost like $500 for the LM-1 and LM-3. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am a dumbass. | You can also run a EDIS ignition with megasquirt and not need a distributor, so you wouldn't have to modify the LT1 intake so much. | |
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02-15-2006, 10:15 PM
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#21 | | Member
Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Denver
Posts: 160
Car: 1986 Firebird Engine: LG4 305 Transmission: T-5 | Quote: Originally posted by 87z28fromhell
If no one here can tell me not to buy it I will order next week. MSII V3. I just hope the old 305 with 145,000 miles on it will last a few months so I can build a new short block(383) and custom exaust and not to mention modifying the LT1 intake to fit. Oh yes I knew I had a question here. Will the stock LT1 map sensor work here? Also When I upgrade the throttle body to a 58mm do I order one for the TPI or the LT1. And as far as the wideband goes do I just need the sensor or the analyser as well like the Innovative LM-1? Hell that thing cost like $500 for the LM-1 and LM-3. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am a dumbass. | Here's your wideband: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...bbd4948f391f10 | |
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02-16-2006, 09:08 AM
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#22 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Moweaqua, Illinois
Posts: 1,390
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25'th anniversary he Engine: 355 TPI, Transmission: T-5 Axle/Gears: 10-bolt with 3.42 | Quote: Originally posted by mhaskell
You can also run a EDIS ignition with megasquirt and not need a distributor, so you wouldn't have to modify the LT1 intake so much. | I think that would cost more money time and trouble then it is worth. | |
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02-16-2006, 10:14 AM
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#23 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| Quote: Originally posted by Tibo
I think that would cost more money time and trouble then it is worth. | Considering you can pick up an entire EDIS-8 system at a junkyard for almost nothing it is very inexpensive.
the only hard part is mounting the crank trigger to the lower pulley.
Timing will be much much more accurate, with out all the timing chain and cam gear slop.
you can also buy parts here, http://home.earthlink.net/~beanbooge...t_engineering/ | |
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02-18-2006, 03:59 PM
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#24 | | TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Chicago area
Posts: 350
Car: 87 Z-28 Engine: 383 HSR w/supercharger, AFR heads Transmission: 700r4 w/2500 stall Axle/Gears: 3:73 | I am now in the proccess of tuning my car with the Megasquirt II V3.0 and Innovate LC-1 wide band and controller. I am extremely happy that I decided to do this. The tuning capabilities are awesome and the support makes it easy to work through any questions. For anyone considering this, do it, you will be very pleased with the results. My total cost had been about $560- that is a steal.
__________________
383 CID, AFR 195 Heads, Holley Stealth Ram, Paxton Supercharger @ 10PSI, Megasquirt DFI. | |
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03-10-2006, 12:54 PM
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#25 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Boston
Posts: 230
| I finished another megasquirt install ...
Just started my 84 vette, I converted from the crappy crossfire inejction and smog heads to DFI port injection and aluminum fastburns. I'm post the cliffnotes, any questions just ask away.
350 with fastburn heads (aluminum, sodium filled valves)
mercrusier intake (machined to fit extensively)
BBK 1000CFM throttle body
Machined fuel rails
48lb/hr injectors
walbro 255 pump, all AN fittings and aeromotive regulator
small 214/244 cam (similiar to GM HOT cam)
Megasquirt DFI w/zeitronix wideband
long tube headers, dual 3" exhaust, X pipe, GM LT4 mufflers (quiet)
Even with the huge injectors the engine idles well, and revs nicely. The cool thing about megasquirt is that it can tune itself to a lookup AFR table with the wideband directly. Once I get the car on the road I'll finish the high rpm/high MAP values. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...T_afrtable.gif
Video of it starting, the camera microphone doesn't pick up the revs very well http://media.putfile.com/megasquirt-corvette
Quick megasquirt video of a startup http://media.putfile.com/megasquirt-quick-view 
A/C,smog pump, and idler delete   
engine wiring 
Old motor for reference  | |
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03-13-2006, 02:14 PM
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#26 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: garage
Posts: 2,672
| What kind of fuel method did you chose? Alternate bank fire or Straight bank fire (2 squirts per 720* engine cycle)?
What is the idle fuel pressure and what are the injector PWs at idle? I am curious what the single fire (not batch, I can do the math) injector PWs are.
Is that cam duration a typo? Seems rather strange for fastburn heads & intake.
How high do you rev it while allowing the ECM to tune using the WBO2. What happens if the O2 goes bad. Did you add check engine light code and bound the range the WBO2 can swing the fuel trim? | |
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