DFI and ECMDiscuss all aspects of DFI (Digital Fuel Injection), ECMs (Electronic Control Module), scanners, and diagnostic equipment. Fine tune your Third Gen computer system for top performance.
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ok so i have been having problems with my 88 tbi bird , to start off it runs super rich . , i bypassed my coolant fan switch , so it would stay on all the time , little did i know this would affect my car greatly . it set off a coolant tempature code , now i didnt know that by keeping my engine cool it would make my ecm think that my engine is cold and have it always in enrichment mode " i think thats why im running rich eventhough my spark timing is right " now heres my question DID I FRY MY ECM ? i was checking codes and had the jumper wire that goes into the diagnostic terminals and i cranked my car over and it ran then i shut it off and ever since then it wont start , any ideas what it might be ?
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Cranking with the A+B jumpered will not do anything to the ECM. This just places it in field test mode. It does close the IAC, however. You might try starting it with the throttle cracked open.
You should run a stock 195 t-stat with stock fan switch. Right now, teh engine is constantly running rich in open loop (and the TBI cals are set to run RICH). You could have possibly fouled out the spark plugs, causing a flood and no-start. Check the plugs to see what they look like. If theyre real wet, you will need to disconnect the injectors and crank the engine over to clear out the fuel and put in new plugs.
i figured out my problem , i used to have the ac delco's in there before the rebuild but i broke a couple and decided to try the e3's , turns out my coil went out and the e3's need a little more juice to run em ' so i bought an msd blaster coil , hopefully that fixes the problem , now all i have to do is get bird running , another prob though since i was trying to set the timing previous to the stock coil going out i have my distributor loose now i twist it a little bit and have someone crank it and it wants to start but as soon as they crank it it floods so i have to disconnect the injectors and crank it then i can get a really rough idle for a while " at least until the fuel in the piston runs out , so during the idle i plugg the connectors back in and it pops like it wants to back fire
yeah thats what i do , with the injectors connected i prime the pump then crank but as soon as i do that it floods , and then i have to do it all over again but with the injectors disconnected , crank it then let it run until it dies oot .
well , not so good news , first off msd blaster coils aren't direct fit " one of the manifold runners is in the way of the new , bigger msd coil , so i only bolted one hole ." two my darn bird still floods , first off i tried cranking it without the injectors disconnected and it ran for a while the died " i had to hold down the distributor and twist it to find the sweet spot ." so the i tightened the distributor a little bit more and got it to stay put . plugged the fuel injectors back and cranked but nothing " it sounds like it wants to start but nothing , so then i spray starting fluid in tb and its starts then dies when all starter fluid is used up . so i dont know what else could be my problem , my fuel pump relay is brand new and i even rebuilt my tbi unit so no cloggs in filters , what else could it be ?
yes , tehy are and i just rebuilt my tb unit , it cost me 40 $ not bad , but yeah oh uh also could it be my pluggs ? because i am using the e3's and i broke one and bought a new new one and after only 10 minutes of running it " back when it was running and it ran super rich " the electrode was black , could that be it ?
get those E3 plugs out and use autolite plugs for it, they stop internal arcing for a better burn on these motors, and anyone who doesnt believe me, try them and feel the diference
get those E3 plugs out and use autolite plugs for it, they stop internal arcing for a better burn on these motors, and anyone who doesnt believe me, try them and feel the diference
any multi electrode plug is nothing more than snake oil, and every multi electrode plug ive ever used has givven me a rocky idle, if your flooding, you either have weak spark, fouled plugs, too much fuel, or not enough air.
yeah its always been there all my supervisor did to bypass the sensor is he spliced a wire in the harness that goes to the relay and then he grounded that wire so whenever the ignition was on the fan would also come on , then i drove it home thinking the white smoke was oil from me touching all those internal parts with my greasy hands , then i realized it was raw gas not oil so we thought the timing was off , so we messed with that with the est unplugged then we shut off the car plugged the est back in and the timing wouldnt stay set so i re did my timing and still no chang but my supervisor forgot to unplugg the est when messing with the timing , then he shut it off and ever since then its been hard to start
before and after pics @ cardomain (82regal)
