DIY PROMDo It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.
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I just updated to the ARAP.bin and I see much more knock retard, 5-6 degrees at WOT than with my stock(1-2 degrees) (AUJM.bin). But I did notice ARAP was a little lean(based on BLMs/INT values)....
should I add a little more fuel first, or change the timing tables..first?
Maybe I will do one, the other and both and try them (thanks to the Bin switcher)..
johnH, When I was using the ARAP.bin I just cut and pasted the stock timing tables over the ARAP's and it seem to work well, the ARAP's timming tables are just to much for stock heads.
__________________ 89 T-Top GTA 5.7L T-56
ATI Procharger D1sc, AFR 195 Eliminator heads, ZZ9 cam, AS&M SS runners, Accel base, 58mm TB, 60Ibs injectors, Stainless Works LT 1 3/4 headers, Mufflex 4" catback, McLeod Street twin clutch, Moser Ford 9" with 3.70, 18" Boyd Smoothie II wheels 8"/10", DIY prom with code59. Stock short block
Miniram & Monoblade throttle body soon to be added.
Here is what I have been doing. Keep in mind that I just converted from MAF to SD and started burning my own proms at the same time about a month ago (ie. I don't know what I am doing yet). I take a good long recording of about 1/2 hour of driving and then I add or subtract fuel where needed and remove about half of the knock count where needed. Then do it again and again untill I am at 128 with no knock. There is more to it than that (disable PE ect. ect.) but that's the basic routine.
My next plan is to add 0.4 deg of timing globaly to the spark tables then re-edit the fuel and spark and keep adding and editing untill I feel satisfied. Once I am satisfied with the spark tables I might subtract 1 or 2 deg of spark globaly from the tables to create a safety cushion.