Had to remove Knock sensor cause of headers
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Had to remove Knock sensor cause of headers
Well just installed long tubes,mufflex Y and 4" and K/S is in the way of headers.
I'm using 7730 ecm and have K/S disabled anyway cause of solid roller. Do I need to put a resistor on the plug? Or should I keep the KS hooked to it? Does it need to be grounded?
Thanks for any help.
I'm using 7730 ecm and have K/S disabled anyway cause of solid roller. Do I need to put a resistor on the plug? Or should I keep the KS hooked to it? Does it need to be grounded?
Thanks for any help.
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Had to remove Knock sensor cause of headers
Originally posted by 87_TA
Well just installed long tubes,mufflex Y and 4" and K/S is in the way of headers.
I'm using 7730 ecm and have K/S disabled anyway cause of solid roller. Do I need to put a resistor on the plug? Or should I keep the KS hooked to it? Does it need to be grounded?
Thanks for any help.
Well just installed long tubes,mufflex Y and 4" and K/S is in the way of headers.
I'm using 7730 ecm and have K/S disabled anyway cause of solid roller. Do I need to put a resistor on the plug? Or should I keep the KS hooked to it? Does it need to be grounded?
Thanks for any help.
The actual sensor can be put elsewhere on the block. Some Astro vans had them on the rear area of the block where the bellhousing bolts on.
RBob.
#3
RBob,
How does the resistor do the trick then? I thought the knock filter gave some sort of PWM signal to the ECM, but I dunno why I thunk that Please disabuse me of my KS ignorance.
John
How does the resistor do the trick then? I thought the knock filter gave some sort of PWM signal to the ECM, but I dunno why I thunk that Please disabuse me of my KS ignorance.
John
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Originally posted by JohnL
RBob,
How does the resistor do the trick then? I thought the knock filter gave some sort of PWM signal to the ECM, but I dunno why I thunk that Please disabuse me of my KS ignorance.
John
RBob,
How does the resistor do the trick then? I thought the knock filter gave some sort of PWM signal to the ECM, but I dunno why I thunk that Please disabuse me of my KS ignorance.
John
For the '730 ($8D) the code uses the ADC to measure the resistance of the KS. The 3.9K resistor matches the resistance of the KS. The $8D code runs another test which is to crank in timing (during PE) until knock is detected. This test can be disabled by setting the coolant temperature threshold at max.
Malfunction code 43 is the result if either check fails.
RBob.
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Use a 3.9K ohm resistor from the knock sensor wire to ground. No SES lite then
The weird thing is I have not gotten a light yet? Currently I have the wire connected to the sensor but just lying on fender.
Well I'm gonna first try to find somewhere to mount it, If not off to get a resistor.
Thanks again.
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87_TA
Just relo the KS to the driver side of the block and then plug the passenger side. The driver side drain is plugged and doesnt serve any purpose. You will however have to extend the wiring for the KS.
That is what I did when I dropped in my 2210s, acrually its what most people do, about your only option.
Just relo the KS to the driver side of the block and then plug the passenger side. The driver side drain is plugged and doesnt serve any purpose. You will however have to extend the wiring for the KS.
That is what I did when I dropped in my 2210s, acrually its what most people do, about your only option.
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Thanks,I'll give it a look.
I could not find the resistor at radio shack, soo I had to wrap a rag around mine and run a ground wire to it to go racing.
I could not find the resistor at radio shack, soo I had to wrap a rag around mine and run a ground wire to it to go racing.
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Yea - read the long tube installation sticky that I wrote on the exhaust forum. It explains that you have to relocate the KS to the driver's side.
Tim
Tim
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87,
Why don't you just do what I do? Leave the knock sensor in the motor, leave everything hooked up, but just zero out the retard that is trys to pull?
That way you can see if you get counts, but it will never actually pull any.
I do not get any false knock with the long tubes on mine. Make sure you are not making contact with any metal, even when the motor rocks. I had to spring a few items on mine for clearance. These were with Hookers. But my setups is entirely different as far as chassis is concerned so, I can't give specifics...
Why don't you just do what I do? Leave the knock sensor in the motor, leave everything hooked up, but just zero out the retard that is trys to pull?
That way you can see if you get counts, but it will never actually pull any.
I do not get any false knock with the long tubes on mine. Make sure you are not making contact with any metal, even when the motor rocks. I had to spring a few items on mine for clearance. These were with Hookers. But my setups is entirely different as far as chassis is concerned so, I can't give specifics...
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