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DIY PROM Do It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.

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Old 12-31-2003, 12:04 AM   #1
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Rockport, TX
Posts: 647
Car: 1980 Jeep CJ7
Engine: AMC 360 with GM TBI
Transmission: TF727 set for kill...let's get it on!!!

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Almost ready for fire up!

Well, with the exception of the ignition, the EFI is wired in the Jeep and ready to roll. I am working with another TGO member to fix the ignition wiring problem and we should have it ready in a day or so.
When I initially fire the engine off, I know I need to set the mechanical idle, TPS, and timing. What else should I do when I finally have it running? Should I get a datalog of what it is doing at idle and go from there? I have modified the ANLU bin already with a target idle of 750 rpm and I have diasbled EGR and made sure VATS is disabled. I maxed out the TCC stuff to 255. I don't know if that will make a difference or not. I also zeroed out the coolant spark tables, but I can copy them back in if need be.
TIA
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1980 Jeep CJ-7 with a GM-fueled AMC V8, Accel 300+ ignition...GM 1-ton axles front and back...still sort of under construction
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Old 12-31-2003, 08:41 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: In reality
Posts: 7,554
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter

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What assembly lube did you use?.
Does it contain a high zinc, phosphor, level?.
If so, I'd set the chip to stay in open loop and remove the O2 sensor for the break-in and maybe the first 100 miles until ehen every you change the oil.

Then pull a few degrees timing out everywhere but idle, and add a little fuel everywhere but idle.

You don't even want to risk a chance of detonating the motor during break in, IMO.

Assembly lubes, and sealants, can poison an O2 in just seconds, thou they can take a couple hundred miles to completely die. IMO, better just better to stuff a Ford 18mm spark plug in the bung for break in.
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