Within the next week I'm going to be turning the key on a brand new 383 in my 85 TA. I just finished the swap to Speed Density using a '730 from a 93 corsica, I have a PROMinator ordered, should arrive within the time I need it, and I'm in the process of building an ALDL cable at the moment. This isn't the point of my post though. Of course there is no stock bin for a 383, so keeping the thought of what kind of comp things can ruin an engine (especially at a tender time like this), I need to know of a good starting place for the new setup. If I don't get any other conclusion I'm just going to go with an AUJP bin and hope for the best, but I was just wondering if any of the experts have any ideas or hints that could help me out. The car still has the stock injectors from the LB9 (19#? I don't remember what it is). I need to know if its necessary to change the injectors all together, or if it would be safe to keep them provided the injector and displacement constants are changed in respect to the setup. Mind you I am not looking for performance at the moment, I just want it to run safely, and I'm not sure if I need to go up to 24 or 28 lb injectors to ensure that it doesn't lean out. Also, would the S_AUJP work at all with what I'm doing? I was reading up on it and it looks pretty good from where I stand. The comp ratio (I'm guessing) is 10.5:1 and going to be using 91 octane. That's my only concern there. Is there anything else I should do to the bin, fuel system or anything else before turning the key to keep it safe? Anything in particular I should pay close attention to during break-in? Again I'm not looking for performance on the first startup, I just want it to run well enough to make it a couple blocks to get it out of the garage its in now. Thanks in advance for any help, I really don't want to jump in and nuke this thing..

First thing disable VATS !
That could send you in circles right off the bat.
Check all of your devices for proper resistance if you havn't already done so. Just to be sure there is not a bad component in the mix.
Connect the scan tool or logger and read the sensors and confirm everything "seems" ok and adjust the TPS to spec before attempting to fire it up. I forgot to reconnect my MAP and caused undue stress as to why it kept setting codes
Engage the fuel pump and check the pressure before stating, that also finds leaks before things get hot.
Some here have commented that the S_AUJP had too much spark and had detonation so it might be wise to start with the stock tables. I'm not a "super tuner" but I think the 19's will run it ok with the constant change. I would try to really pound it until you've made a couple of logs and got the VE tables running close.
Hope this helps.

383, 10.5-1 and TPI. Better have a limited slip....

What cam?

My Carbed 383 has 10.9-1 with a 276 solid cam and will only tolerate 28* total by 3k.
My old 280 hyd cam was much less sensitive and handled 34* fine. A similar HR cam would be fine timing wise i'd think. But I have a cai and a 3spd w/3.08 in a 3350lb car.
Just be careful with the timing.
Might save your self some head ache and get the correct injectors now. Need to know the whole combo to take a guess at what injectors. But seeing as I doubt the 383 will make less HP than a 350. 22's at a minimum. 30's will cover what most people will use a TPI on. So 28's if the price is right.

Haha, no VATS in the first place. thanks though.
Is there a table around somewhere that shows what kind of resistance I should be looking at in all the sensors, or should I just search around? I don't mind searching but it'd be a lot faster the other way. I guess unless someone else says otherwise I'm gonna go with an AUJP with the injectors and displacement changed then. Do you know of anything else I can set to give a little extra insurance?




Haha..well actually, I'm selling the TPI and going with a modified LT1 intake I really like the daily driver power thing so the cam isn't anything much. Crane energizer 216@.050 single pattern with like .480 lift. Might change around later but Desktop Dyno says anything bigger is going to push the powerband up where the cast rotating assembly won't like it too much. I'm trying to keep from posting the combo because this doesn't seem like a good place for it but it is that, 383 with the LT1 intake, stock FPR for now, and the heads are Dart iron eagles.

Anyway, yeah. I'll even go as far as restricting the intake to get it to break in well without lean or too much richness. I'm 17 years old working two jobs as it is to pay for this stupid thing since I turned 16, it'd really ruin my day to see it go up in smoke.. I know I wouldn't be able to afford a rebuild.
Any other suggestions, anyone?

Look at http://www.chevythunder.com There was some good info on the values for startup checks (I just don't remember at the moment and don't want to feed you the wrong values)
Just to confirm, you don't have the VATS key or module but the 730 w/ AUJP is expecting it so be sure to uncheck the bit and disable it
Not much else except check all the little things.

Going to a 383 you will need to change the cc's to 784 in the constants and make sure the injector constant is set correctly.
I am running the S_AUJP in my 383 but it is requiring a lot of tuning on the VE tables. I havent run into any detonation yet though. The stock injectors are too small, change them before you fire it up. Learn from my mistake... I ran 24lb SVO injectors on mine 36 PSI and ended up frying my JET HOT coating on my headers, luckily I didnt seize the motor! 30lbers were too much at idle so I increased the pressure and lots of changes to the VE table with the 24's and it is now much closer.
Depending on your cam, you might want to increase Idle RPM.
It will take a lot of tuning and ALDL monitoring, good luck!

I'll remember to uncheck it. Thanks. I checked out the site, though, and I didn't find what you were talking about. What link is it under?
Also, I'd love nothing more than to buy new injectors, but between now and next friday I have about $200 to spend on things to get it running. This is also for coolant, oil, and all that misc stuff, so I'm not really in the market for any unless I can find some cheap floating around on ebay or in the classifieds.
So I'm hearing two things here; that I can use the injectors, and that I can't. Hmm...

Hell if I can find it now !
The injectors should be greater than 10 (like 14-16 ohms) each.
I can't find the stupid page now to verify the others.
Solenoids should have "some" resistance and not connected directly to ground (just as a quick check anyway)
Use the ALDL to see if the other sensors and O2 are reading anyway.
Craig had a note on his home page about a spare set of 30's.
Maybe he'll work you a deal if there still available
Good luck, I'm not real sure on the injectors other than starting it up. for any kind of real driving it really sound like bigger is required for those cubes.

I'll do that.
I just need the car to start and drive a short distance on the day of startup. That's it. Probably won't even be seeing 2000 RPM with it. I know at upper RPMs I'll need bigger injectors, and by all means that's the first thing I plan on buying afterwards (that and a thermostat housing. Can't afford one! ). In your opinion am I going to need bigger just to keep it healthy at idle and lower RPMs?

At low RPM, even undersized injectors have plenty of time available to get the fuel in, so the 19#'s will be fine just to move the car to another garage.

One thing, I didn't see it mentioned if you're using a roller cam or not. Flat tappet cam, you'll need to be able to get the RPMs up enough for 30 min or so to follow the mfr's recommended break-in procedure.

Roller cam is much easier, since there's no break-in needed. You can start and stop the motor as much as you want to make adjustments, and don't have to worry about letting the RPMs drop too low.

its a hyd. flat. The break in procedure for cam is varying up and down between 2000-2500, isn't it? Is that considered too high an RPM for the #19s? I'm not sure if that's considered a high RPM at all..
Oh..If I see the engine lean out a lot during cam break in, what do I do? Am I supposed to shut it off, or do something else?

between 1500-3000, the injectors will feed it fine until you start going full throttle and if you think you need to shut it off during cam break in do it- just don't let it idle that's when you run into trouble.

A 19# injector at 3K RPM can flow just as much fuel per cylinder firing as a 38# injector could at 6K. You'll be OK.

You can adjust the mixture on the fly somewhat with fuel pressure if need be, and also timing via the distributor.

As mentioned, if it's too far out of whack, or something is way wrong, shut it down and fix the problem or burn yourself a new chip, instead of letting it hurt itself.

If you're certain that the exhaust manifolds don't leak, and the O2 sensor is good, you might consider opening up the BLM max/min limits somewhat so the ECM has a broader range of adjustment.

Of course, the ideal solution would be to borrow an emulator. <g>

I am in a pretty similar situation as you are. 383, 10.5:1 cam similar size however roller and 25lb Ford injectors. I started up with the S-AUJP and it is really running rich, BLMs in the 90s but it does idle, not sure if yours will run like that or not...