DIY PROMDo It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.
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Finally got time to take a couple pics. The L31 coil mounted on homemade bracket on intake. I used an ebay 3.5" elbow and mounted IAT in hole in it. Later, when front end is back on truck, Ill build cold air pipe to front of radiator. RunningEngineLside.jpg
I do have one comment, though. The ign. module's heatsink may want more airflow. I noticed that even at idle, mine gets quite warm even when its just exposed to ambient air temperature. I can say from experience that the modules life is inversely proportional to how hot it gets. They ususally dont fail outright, either. Its a gradual degradation in performance thats hard to notice. And then, the module will finally fail and the car will not restart.
I do have one comment, though. The ign. module's heatsink may want more airflow. I noticed that even at idle, mine gets quite warm even when its just exposed to ambient air temperature. I can say from experience that the modules life is inversely proportional to how hot it gets. They ususally dont fail outright, either. Its a gradual degradation in performance thats hard to notice. And then, the module will finally fail and the car will not restart.
Maybe I need to move it on the outside of bracket. That might help. Opinion?
Oh yeah, got my CEL light working today, and I have a P1336 Crank Re-learn error. Now, I've got to figure out how to do a re-learn. I don't have access to tech2 either.
Thanks,
Ron
That would probably help. Just so its not picking up hot air right off the manifold.
Surprisingly, I never did get the P1336 (yet). Im not sure yet how to invoke it. Ive seen portions of the code handling the checks of teh stored periods for each tooth as well as the code that cuts off timing to unload the engine. But, its hard to trace it back to the OBD routines. I dont know how much a dealer would charge, but its a one and done thing as the calibration is permanently stored in an eeprom within the PCM.
That would probably help. Just so its not picking up hot air right off the manifold.
Surprisingly, I never did get the P1336 (yet). Im not sure yet how to invoke it. Ive seen portions of the code handling the checks of teh stored periods for each tooth as well as the code that cuts off timing to unload the engine. But, its hard to trace it back to the OBD routines. I dont know how much a dealer would charge, but its a one and done thing as the calibration is permanently stored in an eeprom within the PCM.
I found that a snapon MT2500 (red brick) scanner with the VCI module will do the ckp relearn. A buddy had one, and I bought the module.
We're going to do relearn first of next week when module gets here. I'll post results.
Ron
Well about 25 tries to do re-learn and still no luck.
I've decided now to put all guages in, hook up park brake, with a sensor, and go ahead and get everything electrical working on truck and then go back ant try re-learn.
I'm missing something, and can't find it. I'm still just getting code P1336, and everything else checks out just fine.
I've run the engine up to 5-6000 rpms so many times trying re-learn, it's already broken in and never moved from shop.
Engine really sounds fine now with 2.5" system with X-pipe and new Magnaflow stainless mufflers. I thought maybe my oxygen sensors might be freeking out with open exhaust, but that was not it either.
From what I see, you need to have the shifter in neutral, brakes applied, A/C off, and engine up to temp to do the relearn. there must not be any applicable codes set, either, or the PCM will abort. This also means that the sensors for each must be fully functional as well.
Once the quals are met, the PCM will cut timing when the engine comes above 4000 RPM. At that point, you take your foot off the gas to unload the engine and allow it to spin down while the PCM records the period for each tooth.
As for the brake sensor, it would be best to hook it up to the actual brake pedal as there is a good deal of logic thats tied into the brakes being applied/not applied.
a little off topic, but I have a 96 tahoe with the spider injector setup. in you guys's research have you ever come across a lb hr rating for the stock stuff?
From what I see, you need to have the shifter in neutral, brakes applied, A/C off, and engine up to temp to do the relearn. there must not be any applicable codes set, either, or the PCM will abort. This also means that the sensors for each must be fully functional as well.
Once the quals are met, the PCM will cut timing when the engine comes above 4000 RPM. At that point, you take your foot off the gas to unload the engine and allow it to spin down while the PCM records the period for each tooth.
As for the brake sensor, it would be best to hook it up to the actual brake pedal as there is a good deal of logic thats tied into the brakes being applied/not applied.
This is pretty much how I'm going at it.
A mechanic friend says the PCM has to see park brake on also, which I question, but I've even pinned into PCM and grounded that pin, still no luck.
Now, I'm putting in all gauges, and everything I can hook up for another try.
My scanner sees the brake pedal, because LED lights up on the Snapon scanner, but never sees rpm increase. I've run engine steadily up to over 5600 rpm several times, and scanner still says it's waiting on rpm increase. Doesn't make sense. I've even borrowed another scanner, and same thing.
Park/selector switch on trans is correct also, I've ohmed out every wire back to PCM plug.
Maybe soon.
This crap makes me wonder why I've fooled with cars for 48 years.
Yeah, up front, that's where I found that I'd forgotten to turn off error for fuel pressure switch in tank and air stuff.
Thought I had it then, but still not.
Thanks for all the advice.
I keep thinking I'm missing one little thing.
