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I still have a hesitation on tip in although I've reduced AE to the point of where I think I'm really screwing it up. I know my 90's at 15psi are affecting things, but this small amount of AE seems ridiculous. No backfires through the intake, either
350HO, 50mm TBI, 50mm GMPP TBI vortec intake, EBL Flash
Any help is appreciated
Seems like it resembles my AE tables. 80 lbs inj with 20 lbs FP. I just have more in TPS than you and less in MAP. TPS I have more AE fuel. I tried both ways and I had better results favoring TPSAE. I reduced AE tables till I witnessed a lean pop and then gradually added in more. We are dealing with 61 usec at a change so it is easy to go over the edge rich.
Well, trial and errored today for a while. Ended up reducing AE a little more, truck drives better without hardly any AE in the .bin, but obviously the 90's squirt more than the chip thinks. No big deal, seems to be coming together.
If it reads that when you mash it down, its too lean. Additionally, if your not subject to emmissions, let it go a little richer. Itll help improve the throttle response. Also keep in mind that youll need to observe the delta MAP and TPS terms to properly tune it. 700-800 usecs is nothing for some manifolds. You'll also likely need alot more when the manifold is cold. Thats just a little blip of fuel, especially at low RPMs as there are fewer injector firings.
If you have a manifold that runs HOT, then it wont need much AE (may not even need any) when the engine is at operating temp. Does it bog down when you go to WOT, or is it only on tip in when your driving?
watching it today, any AE under 30% delta TPS results in a tiny lag and good performance. The truck leaps forward like it should. Going WOT from a stop results in a huge lag then it goes, breaking traction, etc. Anything over 30 % gives me lag.
Just saw that you have a GMPP TBI manifold, which should be heated. At operating temp, this wont need much AE. The only AE youll need will be mainly for covering for transient response in the fuel system and manifold filling, which is tiny with that manifold. For the manifold AE, you really only need to use the MAP AE. The TPS AE is for covering for transients and manifold filling, which is only needed for a couple hundered milliseconds. The MAP AE is to cover for what fuel ends up wetting the manifold and lasts several seconds. Cold youll need some, but once the engine comes up to operating temp, not much is needed. Tuning is usually a balance of setting the base AE curve and the temperature compensation to give good all around driving. You may find that adjusting the MAP AE table when the motor is warm will fix it, but cause the hesitation to appear when cold. In that case, you need to use the temp compensation to add it back in when the motor is cold.
I have a fully unheated edel RPM airgap and a CAI. Thats the ultimate nightmare setup when it comes to AE and it takes a lot of compensation to tame the beast. In the winter when the manifold is icy cold and caked with fozen condensation, it needs massive ammounts of AE. In the summer when its really hot, it needs very little, and it varies constantly. To give you some idea of what the temp compensation curve will look like with manifold temp, heres mine. When its cold or hot, the curve is flat, but theres a transtion region in between where the fuel compontents become more and more volitile.
watching it today, any AE under 30% delta TPS results in a tiny lag and good performance. The truck leaps forward like it should. Going WOT from a stop results in a huge lag then it goes, breaking traction, etc. Anything over 30 % gives me lag.
For the throttle stomps and over 30% tps, if it is going rich then set this value to 100%:
AE - >TPS% Double MAP AE
For light tip-in, very little throttle movement, this parameter can be lowered to get AE with less throttle movement:
AE - Delta TPS% Threshold for AE
Be careful not to lower it too much. As then just normal driving can have the TPS value jittering and adding AE.
If you are running closed loop the INTegrator value is helpful. If it drops on tip-in then the AE is on the rich side. And vice-versa.
Do the initial AE tuning on a warm engine. THen if it doesn't match up when the engine is cold or above normal temperature, use the CTS multiplier table.
How have you made out with your AE. I've been playing with mine some more, since it has never been right on.
I've attached a snapshot of my latest log, I stap the throttle, get lean for a few tics, 19:1, then it tacks a second or 2 to go all the way to 11:1, and it bogs for that moment. I can't seem to get rid of it.
I've been working on eliminating the lean at tip-in on my setup (maf '165) without much success. But that has more to do with mine being a maf engine. Try lowering the delta load (map for you) threshold for a.e.
Didn't elminate the first lean 'tick', but helped me out alot. I hardly ever notice a bog anymore, unless I stomp it from a stop.
I was fighting AE from a launch. I kept removing more and more AE, which helped, but then from a roll, it was going way lean.
Finally ended up adding spark at the bottom end. Fixed my AE problems, and helped my 60' times too. Was still mostly using the stock EBL timing, and the new setup wanted timing down low.
Not for sure if its applicable, but might be something to look at.
I was fighting AE from a launch. I kept removing more and more AE, which helped, but then from a roll, it was going way lean.
Finally ended up adding spark at the bottom end. Fixed my AE problems, and helped my 60' times too. Was still mostly using the stock EBL timing, and the new setup wanted timing down low.
Not for sure if its applicable, but might be something to look at.
Spark is a good thing from a WOT take off. In my stock bin I had a whole 0 and even -2 degrees spark at 100 KPA and 400 rpms. Its amazing it just didn't die when I floored it although sometimes it came extremely close to it. I now have it at 14.5 degrees and scale it up from there, and then PE adds another 6 degrees when in PE mode. Needless to say my dash no longer stores stuff because nothing will stay on the dash if I nail it.
I always thought the RPM values at 100 MAP that were below what it idles at were just there to make the table look complete. What effect would adding SA at 400 RPM do if you were idling at 700?
