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The map is a mix and match from both LT1, AUJP and Super8D bins...
The problem I've got is that the wideband and the normal lambda just disagree! I've done my tuning in OPEN loop, I get it pretty close on the VE tables even though some are pretty high into the 99 range. It drives well and feels strong.
I re-enable closed loop (min temperature) and start the car. It sits around 13.5 untill closed loop at which point the BLM's drop 128,124,120,118....108, and I can see the mixture going out to 17-18-19:1 afr - Int doesn't go as low. I tried to drive the car and it stubles and goes to stall - so I would have to belive the Wideband over the narrow band.
In tuner Pro I can see the lambda swing back and forth on the voltage, ive also tried a brand new lambda and still get the same issues.
Can I have somehow set the parameters on the narrowband so that 14.7 isn't 128 or the voltage is different or something? I'm really stuck for ideas?
The only way I can drive the car is in open loop
Any suggestions???
Dan
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Both in the same side, Narrowband is on the downpipe from the header, and the Wideband is in the "Gutted" CAT just after that.
I've not got a datalog on this PC but I'll try and get something up soon.
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Another thought I had is that I was using the LC-1 as a simulated Narrowband when the LC-1's digital outputs fried (common fault I found when looking on there website).
I wonder if it spiked the ECU??
Last edited by dan_t; 02-17-2008 at 03:45 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You said you already changed the O2 sensor with a new one, right? Is it a three-wire heated one or a standard one-wire? What brand? I only use AC Delco O2 sensors because a lot of people have gotten bad Boschs right out of the box.
well actually - i used a 3 wire one, but only the one wire connected. I'm wondering if this it a problem now?? I just assumed that it would heat up fine as a normal one did in the same place....
When I enable closed loop and run a standard AUJP bin I see BLM's of around 124-128 but AFR of 16:1 on WBO2
(Narrow band shows good voltage crosses - even with a multi-meter)
When I enable closed loop and run a modified richer bin I see BLM's of 104 but AFR of 16.5-17:1 on WBO2
(Narrow band switches between 850-900mv ie high)
When I dissable closed loop and run a standard AUJP bin I see AFR of 16.5-17:1 on WBO2
(I forgot to see what the voltage was doing on the narrowband here)
When I dissable closed loop and run a modified richer bin I see AFR of 14.5:1 on WBO2
(Narrow band switches between 850-900mv ie high)
When I enable closed loop and run a standard AUJP bin I see BLM's of around 124-128 but AFR of 16:1 on WBO2
(Narrow band shows good voltage crosses - even with a multi-meter)
When I enable closed loop and run a modified richer bin I see BLM's of 104 but AFR of 16.5-17:1 on WBO2
(Narrow band switches between 850-900mv ie high)
When I dissable closed loop and run a standard AUJP bin I see AFR of 16.5-17:1 on WBO2
(I forgot to see what the voltage was doing on the narrowband here)
When I dissable closed loop and run a modified richer bin I see AFR of 14.5:1 on WBO2
(Narrow band switches between 850-900mv ie high)
tune the NB to the WB, maybe. see what 14.7 (according to WB) gives you on the NB's mv readings. then set mean, lean,and rich INT O2 stuff around that. I had to do that to my truck, had the same issue.
well actually - i used a 3 wire one, but only the one wire connected. I'm wondering if this it a problem now?? I just assumed that it would heat up fine as a normal one did in the same place....
I am not even 50% sure how much that will affect it, but I know the hotter the O2 sensor gets, the better it works. Hook up your NBO2 sensor to ignition and ground and then try it. It should be that way anyway for proper operation. I dont know if not having the heater hooked up will make it read wrong, but from your observation, it sounds that way.
tune the NB to the WB, maybe. see what 14.7 (according to WB) gives you on the NB's mv readings. then set mean, lean,and rich INT O2 stuff around that. I had to do that to my truck, had the same issue.
Gutted cat or a collector flange is probably leaking (can even be after the sensor) and skewing your WB lean.
Otherwise, maybe with the NB on one bank, and the WB on both banks (assuming a single gutted cat), then maybe one or two cylinders on the opposite bank are leaking.
One sorta quick check would be to swap the NB down to the Cat, and the WB up to the header collector. If results are opposite, it's not the sensor's problem.
Gutted cat or a collector flange is probably leaking (can even be after the sensor) and skewing your WB lean.
Otherwise, maybe with the NB on one bank, and the WB on both banks (assuming a single gutted cat), then maybe one or two cylinders on the opposite bank are leaking.
One sorta quick check would be to swap the NB down to the Cat, and the WB up to the header collector. If results are opposite, it's not the sensor's problem.
I guess I can try that - I know that the exhaust isn't leaking as i've had it up on the ramp though.
The car runs fine when the WB shows a good lambda, and runs like a dog when in closed loop and WB shows lean. I just don't get it...
I think i'm going to have to try and track down another ECU I don't seem to be getting anywhere as it is... I've also spoken to a friend and he has similar symptoms (but hasn't checked the ECU readings) that his car starts fine and then gets leaner and leaner - he also had an LC-1 wired to run the narrowband that went bad.
