DIY PROMDo It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.
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Alright, so after doing way more reading than I ever expected to via the search button I still have a few questions.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but a the mask $6E is the code. The only difference between BCC's are the values stores in tables constants and bits. My $32B is an ABUN which unfortunatly I have been unable to locate in order to get my current values (things like spark advance etc), but I have been going off another bin from the same year car as mine with the same transmission/engine. (The car runs with this other bin just fine).
In looking at both ARAP and APYP BCC files I have noticed that alot of the values from similar tables are WAY off from the $32B file I have. Can I just copy values from the $32B to the ARAP file I downloaded?
I do understand that I have to disconnect the CSI and switch "Cooling fan N/O REQ input" as well as disable VATS, but I'm still worried about the spark and fuel tables being far off enough to damage my engine.
I also saw "Single" and "Dual Fire FI Size @ 40 psig"
These show as 22lb/hr which iirc is the 350 size? Should I also change this to 19 to match the fact that I have a 305?
Where can I find that? Neither diy-efi.org or moates's fileman have that one. Upon doing a search for ANYH I found something that said it was superceded by APYM, and that one I can find. is that true?
Edit: Upon comparing the APYM tables to my $32B tables I've found that they are very close, infact slightly more conservative on things like spark advance even I may wind up giving this one a shot.
Last edited by malcom2073; 05-10-2008 at 08:41 AM.
I loaded the APYM and it worked perfectly (after I cranked a few times then remembered to disable VATS). It's raining slightly outside so I cant go full throttle without losing traction, but normal driving it seems to run a little better than the old $32B. I haven't disconnected my CSI because I need to find it, but its warm here so until it gets cold enough to activate it that shouldn't be a problem right?
I would think the 305 6E bin would be the same as the ARAP which has the CSI function deleted and provison for cold start fueling through the injectors built in.
Really dont know. But its safer to unplug IF there is an change of it getting power and opening, it could be open at all time smaybe and flood the engine. its real easy to unplug it. and everyone that I talked to, said that "unplug the csi" so..
If you got an CSI just unplug it and cover the conections.
I still havent unplugged my CSI, it's averaging 60-70 degrees overnight so I'm good till winter and it's just great. Better than before, I highly recommend this change to anyone.