Hey i read in a magazine that if you put a blank chip in the computer that you can gain ET times and a little horsepower. So my question is..where can you buy a blank chip?

Blank chip? Remove the tires for weight reduction while you're at it. Seriously though, the engine won't run with a blank chip, or it will run in limp-home mode.

Throw that magazine in the fire! No offence, but that's the one of the dumbest things I have heard yet. And I've heard a few in my time.

The eprom MUST have programming in it to let the ECM know how to read various sensors, intrepret the readings and then control various components based on those sensor readings. Without that information, the ECM is useless.

A blank eprom is similar as NO EPROM. The only thing that happens when you turn the key on is the engine cranks without anything happening. Great if you wish to immobolize the car, but little else more.

hey i get the point i was wondering if it was true......And still you didn't say where i can get one at. I will probably burn me one but idk where to even get a blank chip to burn. I mean if you say take the tires off for weight reduction, i might as well replace the muffler bearings too. lol I mean seriously i'm not stupid, i just don't know a lot about these TPI's and the computers. Thanks for your help. lol

i think i've seen the mag that said something about that.

i believe they said in the begaining of efi some company's were selling blank chips because in limp home mode they have more timing and more fuel than on the stock programing.

i wouldn't try it thou man.

Yeah it was in pontiac performance. I wasnt goin to do it for everyday use just pop it in to say burn up the block and come back switch it and be fine.

Haha give it a shot. I mis-burned my chip (87 STOCK tpi), so it was actually blank, no code on it. The car would idle fine (limp home mode activated), but as soon as I went into drive the car would just die, my car cannot run on limp home mode at all, but I've heard stories of people running on limp home mode, but only bone stock cards, and even then you run super rich.

dont try it man.. even thou i saw the mag. i don't believe it could ever work. or that anyone ever sold a chip like that. it would set the ses light and run like ****.

Well all that seems right, but when i was doing my intake system. I had the MAf off the car and drove it with straight intake. and it ran better, more power, yes rich but,pulled at higher speed. Drove it on interstate 20 miles there and 20 back and it ran fine. Did a burnout and lit the tires better than with the MAf. which i was told if ou unhook it or remove it it goes into that mode. ?????????????????????????????????????????

With the MAF off, you went into "Safe Mode" (not to be confused with Limp Mode) and in reality it was "Alpha-N" Mode - a unique part of the code for MAF cars.

Do a search on "Alpha-N" or posts by "11sOrBust". He did a LOT of experimentation with running WITHOUT a MAF and using the "Alpha-N" mode. I believe 11sOrBust (Tim) would be thrilled if he knew someone was ACTUALLY interested in "Alpha-N" which was unique to MAF cars.

But back to the "blank chip", that must be an older car without VATS Security. If you have VATS security, the car won't start at all - because part of the VATS is in the eprom itself (Catch-22).

And "Limp Mode" is just that "Limp Mode". Only the most severe of errors cause the ECM to go into "Limp Mode" and it truly is Limp Mode - your car barely runs and is JUST to get you home or the nearest garage.

Most errors cause the ECM to go into "Safe Mode" where the ECM runs on limited sensors AND (in some cases if you have a bad MAF for example) seems to run better...because a bad MAF will cause the car to run worst than if it used other sensor readings to make the car function.

Truthfully, both MAF and SD have enough sensors that it can run on the others fairly well if one of the sensor die...that's the concept of "Safe Mode". And, if your car runs better in "Safe Mode", that usually indicates a poor sensor OR a bad tune in the first place...because you should get your BEST performance in Normal Mode.

But, make no mistake, "Safe Mode" is an integral part of the programming on the eprom and you MUST have an eprom with the proper code installed for that part of the code to function. An example when "Limp Mode" might kick in is if the chip itself went bad...and it does not run very good at all, even if you have all your sensors working well. And, for older cars without the VATS Security System, a "blank eprom" may trick the ECM to run in "Limp Mode".

But if you have a later model with VATS, it's just sit there and "crank & crank & crank"...cause I accidentally forgot to install my eprom on my SD car one day when I was made some change to the eprom and forgot to install it in the Memcal; and that is exactly what happened. Had me scratching my head for a few moments.

And, if you are looking to learn about eprom tuning and burning them, go to this link:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/di...uide-book.html (The Prom Tuning Guide Book and FAQ: Common Questions and Answers)

Mouser.com
P/N 804-27SF5127CPGE
$1.45 each, plus actual shipping cost--no minimum purchase!

These are 512k EEPROMs that can be erased electrically and programmed over and over--once you realize that being blank doesn't help performance. If this is going in an '87 you don't have to worry about VATS, if a later model with VATS, you can simply remove the VATS relay and jumper two wires with a paperclip, etc.

Can someone tell me if I can use this chip (SST27SF020-70-3C-PHE)in the place of this chip (SST27SF512-70-3C-PGE). They're nolonger avalible but the first one is only it has more 3x memory than the first eprom.

The SST27SF512 is a decent chip to use. I am using them now. As for a blank chip making any power, I seriously LOL'd at that. I am thinking they printed that as a joke or something. As previously mentioned, if the ECM does not sense any PROM chip, it will automatically set the limp mode. This provides a TON of fuel and the timing is set at a base 10* or so. With it set this way, the car will barely move out of its own way, let alone generate more power. I got my chips from www.mcumall.com. They are around $2.00 a piece. Most of the time, a blank/bad PROM chip usually makes the SES light and fan turn on at key on and the engine will crank and not fire. The base timing is just that, at base. You will not have much if any advance. Hardly any advance means next to no power.

I dont care about them making power. I want one to test on seeing as I dont know squat about tuning one yet. I have a 86 IROC that had a 305 TPI and I replaced it with a 350 with 24lbs injectors. I plan on making a copy of the bin onto the new chip and learn what I'm doing on it keeping the OEM to the side in case I hose the new one I still have my OEM to fall back on. I know they're cheap but I'd rather be on the safe side.

There are A TON of threads on this forum about how to tune and burn PROMs for you car. A quick search should get you onto them. Thats a good idea keeping the stock MEMCAL as a failsafe. If you get the dual power willem programmer and a couple chips from MCUmall, the total cost should be around $50 with shipping. With the 350 in place, I would look for an L98 bin to burn onto the new PROM.

WOW!!!!! That's the first time Ive read a Moderator react that way.

Here's a good one,,, try changing the spark plugs on a diesel engine.

Back to topic. I believe I experience a limp-mode. I got a code 51 and the Camaro would die. So to even get it started, I would have to put it in flooded mode, (depress pedal all the way to prevent excessive fuel entering the cylinders). Then it would fire up but I would have to give it a little gas to prevent it from stalling. I have my 86 305 backup. It's a little slow on throttle response but I gets me from point A to point B.