I am in the process of stroking my 350 TPI to a 383. I am looking for some suggested settings to use as a baseline to start tuning the motor. For starters, I am currently setup with a stock 1227165 ECM. I am running Edelbrock Aluminum heads with 60cc chambers, 165 cc intake runners, 65cc exhaust runners, 2.02 intake valves and 1.6 exhaust valves. It is running a Compucam 2032 roller cam with lift of 214 intake and 220 exhaust at .050. It has a duration of 270 int/ 276 exh with 112 degrees of lobe separation. Fuel is supplied by Accel 36 lb Fuel Injectors governed by a Accel adjustable fuel regulator. It will be breathing through a 58 mm Throttle body and exhaling through Edlebrock shorty headers. I realize the stock runners and intake are going to be my bottle-neck, but they are going to have to do for now. A little bit of additional information: No Vats, EGR enabled, Air Pump enabled, Cold Start Injector disabled, 700R4 auto trans. I am running a 160 degree thermostat behind an aluminum radiator, so I'm leaning towards fan on at 180, off at 170 unless somebody has a better suggestion. This engine is powering a 78 Jeep CJ7 so I am more interested in low to mid power vs top-end. If anyone out there is running a setup similar to mine and doesn't mind sharing, I would greatly appreciate it. If there is anymore information I can provide that will help, just let me know. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Just use your 350 bin for now. That isnt too far from stock car so you should beable to drive it on stock bin for now being a MAF setup.

may i suggest a 6E mask upgrade over the 32/32B setup? I feel its a better setup and its very very easy to tune. I think all you need to do is unplug the cold start injector and run the 89 L98 bin file. DONT USE ARAP. WAY to aggressive timing on those bins. MY motor has always ran the stock 89 AUJL bin, even my 383 used a modified version and it didnt take much modifications to get idle and part throttle down even tho the motor was pretty wild compared to stock L98

What compression are you at? those are very small heads/cam for that 383 so it will be a extremely low end torquey motor. Probly not much over 4000 rpm with that TPI.

YOu can play with timing table to bring max timing in at 3000 rpm or so instead of over 4500 like stock. 32-34 degrees is a good starting point. Make it all in by 2800-3000 rpm and see how it responds, my bolt on L98 loved that.

AE tables may need a slight adjustment, not much but just a little.

May i suggest a wideband to help you figure out where your air fuel ratio is. Thats a great tool in tuning these cars.

180 on 170 off is ok. i have a 170 and was doing 176 on 166 off. You could try 170 on 160 off or something to that effect if its warm where your at. colder days you may want to keep fans off til higher engine temps else you'll have no heater

Thanks Orr89RocZ. Lots of great information to play with. I had read several posts advocating the ARAP, so I will be sure to stay away from it. I'm fairly new to tuning the PROM, so this should be fun. I use RT Tuner, but I only have $32B and $42 masks, so I will need to pick up $6E mask. I've noticed the mention of a wideband O2 sensor before. Where can I pick one of those up at?

To actually make cold start delete work (as you mention), you need to use $6E. 32&B doesn't have any cranking fuel, so it shouldn't start, unless you added cranking PWs to the bin.

Change the injector flowrate constants to 36 as well (and turn off VATS, which it seems you've done, but do it again if you use a $6E xdf)

$6E is very easy to use anyway. AUJM was stock for my car (350 GTA, 700R4, 3.27). I think I have a good Tunerpro xdf posted on moates somewhere. Look for
http://www.moates.net/fileman/index....0Motors/Custom
and find the 6Ev011JLS.... I think that one didn't have too many mistakes (although I see I made a new one in feb 08, but probably didn't change much. I also just uploaded my GTA's bin to the custom bin area - aujmv10-10-05 hiway on.bin. Should work, but has highway lean mode on.

arap is ok but the timing tables need worked. They are way to aggressive i feel.

moates.net has everything you'll ever need. I'm running all his stuff and got the LC1 wideband kit with G3 gauge so i can see whats going on. It works well. I may get another one for my other engine bank to compare both

RednGold86Z, thanks for the help. I am used to RT Tuner where you make direct edits to the .bin file. How do I take your xdf file and turn it into a .bin file? I downloaded TunerPro, but can't figure out how to get from the XDF to a bin.

XDF doesnt turn into a bin file. XDF is the code that allows you to read and change bin files. XDF is the code with all the tables and such listed in it.

You can also use LC1 with hac I did to have the wideband output in the data stream http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/di...6e-linear.html (APYPWB MAF 6E Linear wideband dataloging is here)

The XDF is for TunerPro and TunerPro RT. http://tunerpro.markmansur.com/
XDF is a definition file - basically a road map to the bin file. My $6E bin file is also on Moates.net, re-read my first post - the name is there - just find it in the bin, modified... folder there. The highway lean mode is enabled though, and the injector flowrate is stock.

Thanks RednGold86Z. It's all becoming clearer now. I found your bin file. I've been playing with my spark advance so now I'll compare mine to yours to see if mine looks reasonable or not.
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Thanks 400Z28Racer for the hack. As soon as I pick up the wideband sensor I think I'll give it a try.

I have played with the spark table and here is what I have come up with:

LV 32 LV 48 LV 64 LV 80 LV 96 LV 112 LV 128 LV 144 LV 160 LV 176 LV 192 LV 208
400 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
600 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
800 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
1000 21 21 21 21 20 20 22 21 21 18 18 19
1200 25 25 21 22 22 22 23 23 23 19 19 19
1400 28 28 22 23 23 23 24 25 26 21 20 20
1600 30 30 23 24 25 24 24 24 24 21 21 22
1800 32 32 24 25 27 25 26 28 29 21 21 22
2000 34 34 25 26 27 26 28 28 28 23 24 24
2200 34 34 25 26 28 26 28 28 27 23 24 25
2400 34 34 25 26 28 26 28 27 26 23 23 23
2800 34 34 25 26 28 25 28 25 21 20 21 21
3200 32 32 24 25 24 23 24 20 18 17 19 21
3600 32 32 24 24 23 22 24 20 18 17 20 22
4000 32 32 24 24 23 22 24 20 19 20 22 25
4400 32 32 24 24 23 22 24 22 23 24 27 29
4800 32 32 24 24 23 22 24 23 24 26 29 33

Does this look like an acceptable pattern?

Thanks.

Looks pretty strange - spark almost never should go down, then up, as load increases - always should go down (and then PE can add ~2 deg when running rich). I see several waves in the table almost as if it's not reading the right table, or not reading the right one correctly.

Low to mid load can be a little flat, and then decrease as load increases. 34 to 40 degrees at high RPM low load is usually fine.

I found this spark table out of an APYP prom. Does this look like it will work or should I bring the high end down a little bit?

20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 15.1 9.8 9.8 9.8 9.8
20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 15.1 9.8 9.8 9.8 9.8
20.0 20.0 25.0 29.9 29.9 28.1 27.1 21.8 16.2 9.8 9.8 9.8
20.0 22.5 29.9 36.9 35.9 34.1 34.1 28.1 19.0 16.5 14.1 14.1
26.4 29.5 32.3 40.1 40.1 38.0 35.9 32.0 26.0 21.1 21.1 17.9
29.9 39.0 41.1 41.1 39.0 39.0 38.0 35.2 32.0 25.0 22.9 21.1
35.9 39.0 41.8 43.9 41.8 41.1 38.0 34.1 29.9 27.1 25.0 23.9
36.6 38.7 40.1 46.1 46.1 43.9 41.1 41.1 35.9 27.1 25.0 23.9
39.0 43.9 46.4 47.1 46.1 45.0 43.9 41.1 35.2 28.8 28.1 26.0
39.0 43.9 47.8 47.1 47.1 46.1 43.9 41.8 35.2 28.8 28.1 27.1
39.0 43.9 47.8 47.1 47.1 46.1 43.9 39.0 34.1 28.8 27.1 25.0
39.0 43.9 47.8 47.1 47.1 43.9 43.9 35.9 29.9 27.1 25.0 22.9
39.0 43.9 47.1 46.1 41.8 41.1 38.0 30.9 26.0 22.9 22.9 22.9
39.0 43.9 47.1 45.0 40.1 39.0 38.0 30.9 26.0 23.9 23.9 23.9
39.0 43.9 47.1 45.0 40.1 39.0 38.0 30.9 27.1 27.1 27.1 27.1
39.0 43.9 47.1 45.0 40.1 39.0 38.0 33.0 33.0 33.0 33.0 30.9
39.0 43.9 47.1 45.0 40.1 39.0 38.0 35.2 35.2 35.2 35.2 35.2

What does the PE spark look like?

You can try it, but check the no/medium load condition at higher RPMs to see if it likes a little less timing than that (can hold it at constant throttle in neutral, and drop the timing while emulating, and see if the RPMs drop or rise the instant it updates the spark advance).
Also, probably take a little off the 35 degrees at high load high RPM at first (and also check how much PE spark there is at that point), and inch it forward if you feel like getting the most out of it. Do you have a G-Tech and wideband? I don't know how much spark your combination needs, but I usually play it safe for a driver car (meaning keep it on the rich side of 12.5, and >2 degrees from knock).

Emulating is one thing I haven't had any experience with yet. Are there some good resources you could recommend on what it requires and how to get started?

What are you using to burn chips now?

Autoprom (what I use) or Ostrich or a few other things, combined with TunerPro RT (what I use) or Tuner Cat (I think it can do emulation, not sure). With Autoprom and TunerPro RT emulation, you can connect the Autoprom to an adapter board, which goes in place of your normal prom board, and it runs the car from the Autoprom memory. With emulation, you can make changes on the fly without turning the key off or anything.

I use TunerCat to burn my chips. I like it, but I've started to use TunerPro a little bit and now that I'm getting used to it, I'm actually using that more often than TunerCat. TunerCat will interface with emulaters, I'm just not sure which ones yet. I just ordered my wideband scanner, so I'm going to have to wait a little bit before I get the emulator.

Thanks for everyone's advice on this post. With your help, I am lightyears ahead of where I was when I first started.