DIY PROMDo It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.
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I have a recurring code 36 (maf burnoff). I have replaced relays and the maf but still get the code occasionally. I do my own tuning, chip burning and datalogging with TunerproRT. This is on an '89 with 165 and 6E. I've heard that I can somehow edit the hex (or something like that) to edit that code out so it won't throw a check engine light. I know nothing about hex and code other than a few threads I've read and they just make me feel like a tard because I don't understand. I can hit the hex editor button in TunerproRT and see it all. Can someone please tell me what line and value I need to change and what to change it to in order to accomplish the elimination of a code 36 showing up?
Thanks!
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Have somebody turn off the engine while you are looking through the Maf. The small sensor wire should glow for a hot sec. Also there should be battery power at MAF pin D during this time. It is at motor running key off that there is power at pin D.
The code (36) only shows up at the next start up. I would suspect a wiring problem between the ECM, MAF, and the Relays.
Get a circuit diagram and start tracing the wires and checking the connections/voltages.
I will do that. I can hear the relay click on then off just after shutting the key off. Only about 1 sec. between the clicks. I'll check and see if it heats for that 1 sec.
But, if I do want to go into the hex editor and turn off the code so it never throws that code, what line would I go to and what value would I change. I've read some threads on it but I just don't get how to find the location of the value that needs changed to turn off the code from ever being thrown.
I would suggest fixing the problem because if it is not working oil and dirt will build up on the wire and cause false readings. The engine will still run but will be sick and it will get worse as time goes on, the sensor wire needs this cleaning.
To disable the error code in 6E go to LC22C to LC22F, these are what set the conditions for the alarm code. I don't know what exactly to change or how but this is where it is done.
ERR # 36 Parameters MAF Burn off Diagnostic
LC22C FCB 3 ; 0.3 Second Delay prior to Burn off
CAL = Argument * 10
LC22D FCB 6 ; 6 fails required for ERR #36; If HLM air meter
LC22E FCB 95 ; Fail B/O test if HLM A/D > 95 (ARAP)
LC22E FCB 5F ; Fail B/O test if HLM A/D GT 1.90 VDC (APYP)
LC22F FCB 20 ; Fail B/O test if A/D < 20 (ARAP)
LC22F FCB 14 ; Fail B/O test if A/D < 400 mvdc (APYP)
Thanks guys, I'll work on it when I get home from work tonight. I will see if it is burning off and if it isn't I'll try to get it working. I figured worse case scenario, instead of replacing the MAF again if I can't get it working I'll turn off the error code in the tune and just spray clean the MAF wires at every oil change, which is about every 1000 miles for me.
I would suggest fixing the problem because if it is not working oil and dirt will build up on the wire and cause false readings. The engine will still run but will be sick and it will get worse as time goes on, the sensor wire needs this cleaning.
To disable the error code in 6E go to LC22C to LC22F, these are what set the conditions for the alarm code. I don't know what exactly to change or how but this is where it is done.
ERR # 36 Parameters MAF Burn off Diagnostic
LC22C FCB 3 ; 0.3 Second Delay prior to Burn off CAL = Argument * 10
LC22D FCB 6 ; 6 fails required for ERR #36; If HLM air meter
LC22E FCB 95 ; Fail B/O test if HLM A/D > 95 (ARAP)
LC22E FCB 5F ; Fail B/O test if HLM A/D GT 1.90 VDC (APYP)
LC22F FCB 20 ; Fail B/O test if A/D < 20 (ARAP)
LC22F FCB 14 ; Fail B/O test if A/D < 400 mvdc (APYP)
Figured it out! Thanks for all the help!
Last edited by dan0617; 05-20-2009 at 07:06 AM.
Reason: Figured it out! Thanks for all the help!
What was the problem? I have a similar issue Code 34 and 36. Thanks, Andy
__________________ 82 Z28- 383 roller w/Vortec heads Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake, Edelbrock Q jet, serpentine belt drive.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp. poly everything, IROC swaybar+wonderbar and steering box. Spohn subframe connectors. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad ( now repaired and equipped with the 1LE brake system). Also 1990 IROCZ 5.0 TPI 5 speed (drive train has 150 miles since new), and another 1990 IROCZ 5.7 G-92 etc., and yet another 1990 IROC-Z, red w/flames, and 1988 IROC-Z convertible, red w/59,000 miles.
I replaced both the MAF power relay (again), and the MAF burnoff relay(again), which were only 1 year old. Problem solved. I could hear the relay click after I turned the key off, but it still must have been bad because a new relay fixed the problem. If you replace the relays and get the burnoff working and still have problems with it throwing a code I do know how to turn the code off now and can help you do it (well, I know how to make it not report the code 36 until after 5000 starts that the code would normally be thrown on!), but pandin is right in saying that you need to fix the problem rather than turn the code off. I'm not familiar with the code 34.
For what ever reason your Maf volts out is too low, I would clean the Maf sensor wire with some spray cleaner (Maf unplugged and cold). If no code 34 then it is the burn off bad.
Then I would check for the burn off and get that working next.
I replaced both the MAF power relay (again), and the MAF burnoff relay(again), which were only 1 year old. Problem solved. I could hear the relay click after I turned the key off, but it still must have been bad because a new relay fixed the problem. If you replace the relays and get the burnoff working and still have problems with it throwing a code I do know how to turn the code off now and can help you do it (well, I know how to make it not report the code 36 until after 5000 starts that the code would normally be thrown on!), but pandin is right in saying that you need to fix the problem rather than turn the code off. I'm not familiar with the code 34.
Did you retry the "bad relays" again, to be sure it was the relays and not the connector/connection?
If it was me, I would want to know which relay was bad and why.
I usually test the contacts with an ohm meter after powering up the relay. The more resistance the contacts show the more likely the relay is bad, also check the coil resistance.
If the old relay works, I save them for emergency use, if you have one go clear dead or for testing.
Andy, keep us posted on what you find out is wrong. I'm betting either your relays are bad or you are getting a bad connection. You can try some electrical grease on the relay prongs and on the plug where the wire plugs into the MAF. Clear the codes by unhooking the battery. If they come back, I'd replace the relays and clear the codes again. If they come back again then it is likely a bad MAF but I'd test it or borrow one if you can. Some Autozone stores will let you put one on in their parking lot before you buy it. If they will, put it on, clear the codes, start it up and see what happens. If the codes don't come back, buy it.
When I went out to see if the maf wire was actually heating, the first thing I did was swap the relays because I realized they were the same. When I swapped them, the car wouldn't start at first, then it did and threw another code (I think it was a 33 or 34, I should have written it down since my memory sucks). I knew at that point that even though the relay clicked when it was supposed to for the burnoff it wasn't working properly. Must not have been letting power through for some reason. When I went to buy a new one, I figured I'd just replace them both again. I did keep the one that seems good for a spare.
Before I got it fixed I did change the code so that it would take 5000 starts instead of 6 starts without burnoff before the code would be thrown. It worked, must have had a dozen or so starts without the SES light coming on. I then changed it back to 6, and after 6 starts the code came back. It was after that, I replaced the relays and the code has not came back. I did figure worst case scenario is that I'd leave the code turned off and every month or 2 I'd clean the MAF wires with some carb cleaner. Not going to have to do that since the burnoff is working, but I still usually clean it with spray carb cleaner once or twice per summer to be safe.
Some Autozone stores will let you put one on in their parking lot before you buy it. If they will, put it on, clear the codes, start it up and see what happens. If the codes don't come back, buy it.
I bought a reman at AZ. It was reading way low (183 at wot) so the next day I exchanged it. I got about 6 blocks and the second one just died (heat related). When I took it back, to get my money back, They gave me a credit for the Maf.
I ask about the core charge. I told them that I had brought a bad one in but was leaving with out any Maf. They then refunded the $80.00 core charge too.
I bought a reman at AZ. It was reading way low (183 at wot) so the next day I exchanged it. I got about 6 blocks and the second one just died (heat related). When I took it back, to get my money back, They gave me a credit for the Maf.
I ask about the core charge. I told them that I had brought a bad one in but was leaving with out any Maf. They then refunded the $80.00 core charge too.
Wow, I didn't have a problem with one of their MAF's. I did have trouble with their reman alternators and once with a reman starter though.
