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Ok been taking her for another couple WOT runs to see how she feels, I still haven't been able to bump up the fuel pressure. It's still sitting @ 14psi. A friend of mine busted my guage!!!! So I can't change it at this time. Anyways, Ive still been getting some mean knock in the 2800-4400rpm range. What can I do to help tame this down a bit? I'm running around 10.5-12.0 afr through the WOT range. I'm still kinda stumped on this? I mean the car feels like it has plenty of power and it doesn't feel like it falls off anywhere but I just don't want to blow anything up. Help!!!!???!?!?!?!? Here's the 2 back to back runs that I did. PLEASE tell me what you see.
Last edited by robertfrank; 09-07-2009 at 11:36 PM.
Smooth the SA table, increase VE in knock areas and use detonation resistent fuel. After this you could try assinc mode, though I tried it and did not make a big difference. If too much SA reduce SA.
I haven't touched the SA tables yet and I raised the VE tables in the 90 map area (that seems to be the only map cell where it knocks) to match what my MAP was reading to try and calm it down and it didn't seem to help. I only run 91 in my car. Maybe where I've been getting it from isn't true 91 octane I don't know. I'll go back to Chevron again and maybe it might be right,lol
Quote: I raised the VE tables in the 90 map area (that seems to be the only map cell where it knocks)
Quote:why I would need to raise my VE to 100 if my AFR's are reading 10.5?
Maybe Thomas did not see that your calibrate WB shows rich at WOT. To avoid the knock I believe he was suggesting that you enrichen. Since little learning occurs at 90-100 MAP the VE value there will stay. I am the opposite I see rich PE so I reduced VE values same MAP area and 3200 RPM -6000 RPM. I need to go further.
Last week I thought my K was mechanical(ext pipes in narrow frame tunnel). Now I pulled one deg every log I saw KC (rpm/map) and now no knock ! I will say I am running in those cells 3 deg less than a few months ago.
What would be the best way to smooth the SA table?
I use the "wiew Graph", wery helpful. You will notice the stock SA table comes from other times. If you hold Ctrl you can spinn it around, for different angle wiews.
I locked the INT and BLM to read only 128. That's what I read I was supposed to do when tuning in Open Loop only per Rbobs website. I usually like to get the engine around 170-180 before I start the tuning.
I use the ZT-2 wideband. I also read in one of the threads here that sometimes Roller Rockers can cause false knock readings. I know my commanded WOT afr in 12.5.
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I just went tru your moods, considering that stock FP was probably 11.5psi, 14psi may be anough for full exhaust and 1.6 rockers.
not too sure about that, with the TPI pump and the stock FPR i have, i got quite a lot of 100% VE readings in the VE learn with everything stock save for a 3" catco, hooker catback and cowl induction. which is telling me i'm getting not enough fuel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas1976
How do I set the WUD to see your WB readings?.
you can do that by setting the right WB parameters in the preferences window of WUD, just as if you had the wideband attached right now. robertfrank would need to tell us his WB settings for this though.
i'm at work here so i don't have WUD or something else to take a look at your logs robert, but then again i probably couldn't read much out of it either
your commanded AFR seems to be good, and also locking INT and BLM at 128 seems to be the right thing to do if you do OL WBO2 learns, iirc.
to find out if you get true knock or not you might fill up your tank with some high octane fuel. if it still knocks either your valvetrain is noisy or your SA tables are really way off back the SA off slightly if it's not the valvetrain and try to find the sweet spot of max. SA without knock.
but frankly, i would first try to get the fueling right and then mess with SA (just be sure to avoid the knocks).
that's all i can tell you, dunno if it helps or if it's even the right way to go about tuning, don't have too much experience in this section myself (yet!)
If your out of fuel with 14psi you probably right.
I had tryed all the WB's in the preference, and not one seemed to show realistic #. Thats why I thought it may be more sofisticated. Made me wonder if these files may get corrupted by uploading and downloading, some earlier files in the post I could not open.
I started using the graphing feature in TP this year. When you open up the tables chick on one of the choices below the table to see the graphing feature. It allows you to see any significant peaks and valleys in both your VE and SA tables.
I was able to bump up my fuel pressure due to the fact I bought a new guage. I'm sitting at a beautiful and steady 16 psi due to the new pump. So my next question is when I did my calc for what to multiply my AE- MAP PW and AE-TPS PW I think I did it wrong. I might have taken out alittle more than I needed too. What I did was divided 55 into 60.5 and it came to 0.91 rounded out. but when I multiplied it 55 by 62.692 and it came out to .87 . So I was curious if I might've done it wrong. Also I change my BPC vs VAC to 120 per the calc instructions.
AE is in increments of 61.0 usec PW. I have WB but I find SOP works as well. I tune from a lean pop and up usec until the pop or cough is gone. I am dealing with AE just now. I find this summer with higher underhood temps I need much less AE. also you will find as RPM increase you may not need more AE. IOW if you have a value of 400 say at 2000 rpms you wont need a lot more at 4400 rpms. right now my table for AE TPS is like
244
244
183
183
183
122
122
122
122
61
My values are low since I have large injectors 80 lbs with pressures 15-20. WB shows AE at 10.5/1 A/F on throttle stab at 2000 rpms at 30 mph. I think too rich still.
There is no calc or learning feature to AE. I believe if the INT climbs during AE event it is considered too much AE. Be aware of the RPM modifier table for AE.
As air temps drop here soon in WI I may end up running a spring fall AE specific bin.
II'm sitting at a beautiful and steady 16 psi due to the new pump. So my next question is when I did my calc for what to multiply my AE- MAP PW and AE-TPS PW I think I did it wrong.
For 16 psi FP and 55# injectors, higlight and multiply stock values x 0.9014.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertfrank
Also I change my BPC vs VAC to 120 per the calc instructions.
So I reset the current values back to the stock EBL setting then multiply it? It runs pretty good with the smoothed out SA table but I inputed each number in one by one ( yeah that took an hour) but when I finally inputed them they changed alittle, I'm guessing to the next hex value. The car feels alot snappier with the bumped up pressure and smoothed out timing. I haven't done any WOT runs yet due to work but I'm gonna try for tonight to do a couple.
OK guys, next issue. Since the pressure change I have a serious problem with going lean when I let off the throttle. It doesn't matter how fast I'm going if I lift off it goes DEAD lean, about 21.0 on the WB. I've done some searching on DFCO and Decel enleanment but I haven't been able to come up with a straight forward answer. Any clues?
__________________
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Check out my Cardomain!!! The Future Ultimate source for TBI performance. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3869220
Keep in mind that engine is much lIke a massive air pump. Let off throttle, throttle blades close and MAP drop to 20 or less and VAC is huge. All the fueling wall wetting is pulled off the walls on intake and engine will go rich fromm added fuel then go lean. If you come to sudden stop or slow down to make a turn you may kill engine, anyway mine sometimes comes close to stall especially on cool intake. Stall saver should prevent that from happening. I upped the fuel usec in IAC Throttle follower significantly and I believe it helped prevent a stall.
I dont think BLM changes on a closed throttle 0% TPS but you are locked BLM and INT anyway.