On my '89 vette, I have the '165 ecm with the 6E ARAP based .bin. Tune is open loop and working good. I have a beefed up 700R4 shifting automatically but there is too much variance between the auto shifts N/A compared to spraying a 200 shot. I'm considering a reverse pattern manual valvebody. Is there any way to make the shift light work with an auto? I see there is a flag/constant to set for manual transmission. I'm assuming that would make the shift light settings become active but would that also disable my TCC settings? If nobody knows I'll just try it and see I guess. I'm wanting to find a way to keep the converter lock and everything as is but just change the trans valvebody and get a shift light to work. Preferrably the one in the dash. Can I do that somehow in the tune?

It is as you mention, either teh shift light is active or the TCC logic is active. Enabling the shift light logic disables the TCC logic. Note that on some ECMs both the shift light and the TCC use the same output pin.

RBob.

Sounds like in this case it would be best to get an Auto Meter shift light (or your prefered brand. ), or an RPM activated switch, then connect it (through a relay) to the light in the cluster on the dash.

Personally I prefer the larger and/or brighter aftermarket shift lights, to using the OEM shift light in the cluster.

Autometer makes some very thin shift lights, that are a little larger than an average ink pen, and use a very bright LED, if you were worried about asthetics.

Thanks for the advice guys! I have a dual gauge pod with an AFR gauge in 1 and a vac gauge in the other. I might scrap the vac gauge and see if I can find a shift light to fit in there.

When spraying a 200 shot or larger, the increased rev speed can change the fluid pressure and the function of the governor. You may need to modify the governor so that your automatic shifts come sooner - at lower RPM, so you can then have more control via manual shifting.

There are times when this modification doesn't work under the extra power, and the TV + valve-body just can't control the shifts accurately anymore. That's when people get rid of the TV and swap to a different valvebody. An overall increase in line pressure is usually necessary for that level of performance.

My trans is beefed up and the line pressures are up. I now let it shift automatically N/A and on spray. I was thinking of going to a full manual reverse pattern valvebody but I agree with you that if I want to manually shift my current valvebody I would have to lower the rpm the governor is currently set to shift.

What bugs me the most is that I can't raise the part throttle shifts with the governor. Anytime I try to mess with the springs to raise the part throttle shifting it ends up not shifting at all. Grinding the inner weights down got me to where I want to be on the WOT shifts but I never was successful with the part throttle shifts.

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