DIY PROMDo It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.
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Detecting "attached hardware" is only for emulation devices, such as the Ostrich 2.0 or Auto Prom. It will not detect the ALDU1.
You will need to load the correct ADX, and then use the blue crossed arrows to connect to the ALDL stream.
ok explains why I was use to that with the autoprom. Didnt know that doesnt work with the extreme aldl. knock that down.
I have an 8D XDF. Im guessing the ADX is a new thing for v5
just collecting stuff needed to check the N/A status of combo now without boost. Then want to swap to the $59 code and slap the large rinjectors and tubing for 12psi on.
First, your AutoProm will only be detected when the AutoProm is not set in passthrough mode (switch toward the USB port on the back of the unit). When in that mode, you must have TunerPro set to use the AutoProm as the interface type.
In passthrough mode (switch away from the USB port on the unit), TunerPro will not detect the emulation hardware, because the AutoProm at this point is acting like a normal ALDL cable. In this mode you need to set TunerPro up to use a serial cable interface, and set the COM port correctly. Sounds like you have that working if TunerPro validates that the cable is connected. This is the best mode to get it working in.
From that point (with "test cable" returning that the cable is deteted), you should be bale to connect, provided your vehicle is working, not in limp mode, etc.
If it works in V4, V5 should work provided you have the exact same settings as in V4.
While yes ADX is a "V5 thing", it is a new version of the ADS you would have used with V4. Scanner Pro also used an ADX file for logging, but there have been changes to the file structure so Scanner Pro ADX files don't seem to work with Tuner Pro V5.
You can import ADS files to Tuner Pro V5, and save them as ADX files. Under the Aquision tool box you can find "Import ADS...".
__________________ If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
First, your AutoProm will only be detected when the AutoProm is not set in passthrough mode (switch toward the USB port on the back of the unit). When in that mode, you must have TunerPro set to use the AutoProm as the interface type.
In passthrough mode (switch away from the USB port on the unit), TunerPro will not detect the emulation hardware, because the AutoProm at this point is acting like a normal ALDL cable. In this mode you need to set TunerPro up to use a serial cable interface, and set the COM port correctly. Sounds like you have that working if TunerPro validates that the cable is connected. This is the best mode to get it working in.
From that point (with "test cable" returning that the cable is deteted), you should be bale to connect, provided your vehicle is working, not in limp mode, etc.
If it works in V4, V5 should work provided you have the exact same settings as in V4.
Thanks for that post also. It will help when I get another autoprom.
Im just trying to get a normal aldl cable to datalog right now. (the extreme aldl cable from craig)
While yes ADX is a "V5 thing", it is a new version of the ADS you would have used with V4. Scanner Pro also used an ADX file for logging, but there have been changes to the file structure so Scanner Pro ADX files don't seem to work with Tuner Pro V5.
You can import ADS files to Tuner Pro V5, and save them as ADX files. Under the Aquision tool box you can find "Import ADS...".
This got it. Didnt know I had to import the ads to an adx.
Thanks ! Im sure I'll be picking your brain just like orr89 soon as I swap over to the $59 code.
now to go unting over on your site for $59 stuff for TPRT V5
Will tunerpro recognize the power symbol (^) or do I need to manually input the no. of times to multiply?
Edit- guess not.
__________________ 1985 Camaro LB8 smoothed & balanced to perfection. Abscence of excess is excellence.
________________________________________________________
Increasingly I find the difference between a 'fact' and an oppinion is the number of people who believe it.
Ok Mark, Now you are going to shoot me. In going a little crazy with the dash boards, I was trying to make some of the gauges vertical by setting the needle arc from 0 to 180. The problem is that when doing that, it only uses 50% of the gauge area, and the rest of the gauge is blank. This seems to defeat the purpose of having the needle arc so adjustable. I cheated a bit, by having 2 blank areas overlap, but there still is a lot of wasted blank space. ( 1 gauge goes from 0 to 180, the other gauge goes from 180 to 359 with blank overlap in the center)
I was also trying to invert the needle travel, which can be done mathematically, but then the gauge numbers aren't meaningful.
Just some observations as I layout the ultimate dash.
On Edit: Saved a photo of the dash. One other observation. It would be nice if the bezel was the same arc as the gauge. You can see on engine speed how the bezel looks weird. Although for those using a full circular gauge may look weird, so I don't know what the best way to handle that is.
One other thing, Does anyone have a log in $0E in V5 they can post. The FI is in my motorhome, so I don't get to drive it much. My old logs from ScannerPro do not play back so I have no way to observe how the overlaps effect the gauges.
BTW, On fuel economy calculations, do TBI have a fuel regulator attached to a vacuum port? My MPFI does which means my flow calculations are off except at full throttle. Seems like the only way to calculate that would be a fuel pressure gauge.
That's a great looking dash. I'll take a look at adding support for reversing the needle. I can see where it'd be valuable for your layout.
Regarding the blank space when doing 180 degree needles - I'm aware of it. The way to get around it for now is to do what you're doing. In the future I'll be adding the ability to specify transparent backgrounds for gauges, making it easier to overlap them.
I'll also be adding new gauge types (like digital LED-style gauges and temp gauge types).
Regarding MPG calculation, yes, it's not going to be accurate, but it should be fine for trending.
__________________ '89 TA - 5.7 TPI, T5-WC, 3.08 Posi, Protopline Lightning Aluminum Heads, Pro Mag. roller rockers, Hooker 2055 headers and y-pipe (coated), ZZ4 cam, SLP runners, Spohn suspension and chassis
Dave - ...
Regarding the blank space when doing 180 degree needles - I'm aware of it. The way to get around it for now is to do what you're doing. In the future I'll be adding the ability to specify transparent backgrounds for gauges, making it easier to overlap them.
Specify transparent background or any entity? If my understanding is correct, the gauge face would still be full circle, which would still wipe out the overlap area. Have to play with it, to figure which would achieve the desired result.
Quote:
I'll also be adding new gauge types (like digital LED-style gauges and temp gauge types).
Specify transparent background or any entity? If my understanding is correct, the gauge face would still be full circle, which would still wipe out the overlap area. Have to play with it, to figure which would achieve the desired result.
Huge cheer rises from the gaulking crowd.
The gauge sweep can be adjusted, from very small amounts, something like a few degrees, to a full 360 degrees of needle sweep.
I currently have a dash that has the engine RPM needle to sweep 180 degrees and the half not being used extends off the right side of the dash to give the illusion that it's only as wide as the dash is. Basically using a number greater than 100 for the right side of the gauge puts non used side off the edge of the dash. This also works for the bottom, just not the top or left side, negitive numbers don't seem to work there.
Ya, that's what I did - See link in my longer post near the top of this page. On PW, not only is it 120%, but its also 280 degree arc, so the value at the top is what I want. Since the segments are always a factor of 10, I wanted even multiples, but the PW never gets above 5.5, so I don't need to display 10, so its off the page.
One interesting ramification of transparent backgrounds is that means that we could drop the current value reading from the bottom of the analog gauges. If the gauge face is transparent, we can make a redundant digital gauge and drop it anywhere on top of the analog gauge. We even get to define the size of the font, by the gauge size.
I was also thinking about min/max and historical averages for analog gauges. Would it be way cool to display historical averages as a colored band in the gauge faceplate? Thinking about the O2 sensor - because it spends most of its life toggling, it seems useless to actually read the value it toggles to, but if you could see a band behind the needle, you would get some sense of the average area it is toggling in just in a quick glance.
Since I do use this dash while driving, it has to be designed to give general info at a quick glance, details are not real important. I know Mark has said to not use this while driving, but the OEM speedo and tach are both broken, so the computer is it. No its not used for analysis, its there to tell me everything is ok, as this 502 purrs along.
