DIY PROMDo It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.
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ive had alot of help from orr89rocZ and i thank him. But im still having issues with tuning this beast. Im running tunerpro, a moates G1 package and burn2, but i got a HDR1 to read my stock memcals, i read my stock 87 350tpi bin as well as my motorvation strip chip for a 87 firebird/camaro. but i cant seem to open them correctly after downloading the 32 and 32B XDF files... i believe the 32B is for the 87 and the 32 is for the 86 TA 305TPI. i dont have real time tuning abilty right now due to budget issues. the only realtime tuning ability i have is my autoXray.
here are my issues, im running a 165 ECM and a AUJL 6E bin from orr89rocZ. VATS dissabled, and EGR deleted. base timing is 8 degrees and set for that in the chip.
1.) set idle vs coolant temp to about 850/900 at the right RPMs. but it still fluctuates like 200-250rpm prob due to the cam. IAC counts are from 65-90 etc... cant seem to get them lower than that. in gear it drops to like 700ish but it fluctuates as well kinda wanting to stall alittle bit. cant seem to get the IAC counts lower than this...
2.) i have a stewart warner A/F ratio gauge (narrow band) spliced into the stock 02 sensor but it reads "stochometic" aka good at idle and coldish, but it goes to lean as it warms up. 30lb SVO injectors are set at 43ish psi so i put that they were 31lbs/hr in the injector constants setting.
3.) i have a 200 on 180 off fan switch controlling both radiator fans, chip has been set to same temp as well.
4.) in park the engine runs great, throttle response is great etc. however when driving the engine surges and seems to cut out at 1500-2500rpms but takes off at above that. but i cant rev more than 3000 bc its 1030pm and its too loud. i wouldnt say its a miss but its def surging/cutting out etc. im having issues with the trans but i dont think thats the issue here... car has 2900 converter stall.
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__________________ Formula 383 HSR 9.3:1
SCAT 9000 cast crank, SCAT 4340 forged rods/ARP rod bolts, SRP forged pistons/JE rings, ported HSR, HSR port matched to felpro1206, 58mm TB, grannelli MAF
30lb SVO injectors, patriot 195cc aluminum heads port matched to felpro 1206
XFI280 comp cam, 230/236, .571/.569
1.6 aluminum full roller rockers
handmade aluminum RAM AIR Headman LTs, true dual 3" with 3" xpipe
700r4, built by me, can handle 700hp, beast sunshell, billet servos, transgo shift kit, yadda yadda
march pullies, smog deleted, AC/heat removed
160 thermostat, 166 on fan switch 8pt CEE roll bar, with swing out door bars, hand made thru floor SFC, Jegster tunnel mount tubular TQ arm, Jegster drive shaft safety loop
UMI LCA relocation brackets, UMI adjustable panhard rod, hand made tubular LCA's,TDS wonderbar, KYB struts and shocks, cut moogs 5664/5665, moog suspension tierods etc
SSBC force 10 front calliper upgrade kit, slotted and drilled rotors, stainless braided lines all over car, rebuilt master, SSBC proportioning valve, rebuilt booster, ford 8.8 11.5" rear disks FORD 8.8, rear disks, 3.55 gears, rebuilt carbon fiber clutch trac lock(posi) with f150 preload spring, 28spline axles, ARP cap studs and moser aluminum support girdle.
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rears will be 17x10.5 ford rims with 315's
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also what do you guys set "closed loop enable deg F" at?
i have one chip thats 104.45 degrees and another thats 274.55?
i had issues with closed loop. i had a 166on 160 off hypertech fan switch (controlling both fans) and temps never got above 160... stayed around 155. and it never went into closed loop. i then replaced the switch with my other JET 200on 180 off fan switch and programed the chip for the same temp. i didnt check to see if i went into closed loop tho while driving cuz i was alone.
Also check to see that the main spark table is flat (all the same value) around your idle area. You will probably want around 25 to 28 degrees in the idle area. You may also need to raise all your stall saver enable rpm enables.
[quote=customblackbird;4308423]also what do you guys set "closed loop enable deg F" at?
i have one chip thats 104.45 degrees and another thats 274.55?
I have mine set at the stock value = 104.45 degrees F. Obviously, the chip that you have at 274.55 degrees will never go into closed loop; it is set up that way to keep the ECM in open loop always. This is something, I do not like. I would think that you want the ECM to go into learning mode which is closed loop mode!!!!!!
yea well i fixed the idle issue mostly. i got it to idle like 900-1000 in park, and idle only fluctuates like 100-150rpms... IAC counts are mostly 0 but it does fluctuate like 0-30 sometimes. I was running an older 02 sensor for engine breakin i replaced it with a new NKG that i had for after breakin.
i set the closed loop for the 104 temp and it does come on. not a 104 but up higher like the 170ish range. Im was running lean in open loop but then i added .5 to my MAF table1 and now im running rich in open loop(says autoxray) and my 02 gauge (narrow band) says im usually stochometric. once it goes into closed loop tho the gauge bounces around from lean to rich (kinda cool to see the gauge flutter from red LED to green LED lol) Autoxray also says rich/lean pretty fast.
timing comes in around 34-36 at idle! integrator is at 128. injector pulse 1.7/1.8ms at idle and goes to like 2.3ms while driving under load. MAF flow is 13-14g/sec at idle. but i have a pop in the exhaust when i stab the throttle in the 2000-3000 rpm range at idle?
I took it out for a drive to break in the trans, this thing is hesitating and surging and popping all over the place. AutoXray says im pulling 43-45 degrees of timing at about 2000 rpms and fluctuates naturally but this is ALOT at such a low RPM right? injector pulse shoots up to like 2.3ms as well. My dad has built many cars with Carbs and he says its got wayyy to much timing. 43/45 before or at 2000 is too much i think. havent taken the car above 3000 bc of new engein and trans only has 5miles on it so far.
SO what do i do? should i just start with a stock AUJL 63 bin which i have and then see what the timing does? the chips ive been trying were modded by Orr89rocZ. and he added a bunch of timing down lowww. I also reread my stock 350tpi memcal and motorvation strip chip... should i start with one of those? i like the AUJL bc i can edit more than my stocker and it has the cold start injector delete which i need for the HSR.
tried the stock SUJL 6E bin that orr89rocZ gave me and it worked MUCH BETTER! idling was lowered alittle with no change in TPS/IAC, set TPS to .58v. IAC steps have upped to like 0-30 but stays more in the range where as before it stayed at 0 and would jump occasionally. I had NO popping in the exhaust, and just alil hesitation at certain points. I FIXED the trans issue so thats normal now. only had it up to like 3200rpms bc of the trans and engine needing proper break in.
total idle that i could see randomly looking down was 34ish and at idle it was like 17. i dont think that this cam needs like 25 at idle. now bc i cant read RT data bc i dont have the cables if I wanted to change timing...say bump it 2 degrees where should i do that? like what LV8 etc. i also noticed that the timing only goes to 4800rpms... this HSR383 will rev to 5500 no issues... wheres the timing for that?