So im tuning for the first time today. im using LM-1 WB to log and it also feeds the 02 voltage to my ecm using an output. When im at cruize its reading exactly 14.7 but my blms are like 120 .. Im not sure whats going on with that but i was wondering if i should adjust the output. here is how the output signal reads on the programmer. 1.099 Volt @ Lambda:.958 (so is this range sweet spot)? 0.103 Volt @ Lambda: 1.022 (and this the total operating range)? It claims its factory set up for most factory 02 sensors! But ive been tuning with it for about 3 hours now, and it feels amazing, what a difference this made. i never tuned for the new mild cam i put in but i feel it now. I whould like to thank everyone for there help!! i wouldnt be able to do this without the EFI bible located here on third gen!!! P.S if your not using wide band, you dont know what your missing!

.

If it is set to A/F rather than Lambda it is telling you you are at stoich. you can set stoich at 14.3 for E10 in the LM1 so that when it is at stoich it reads 14.3. Or better yet set to lambda and stoich will show 1.00.

I think the 120 BLM is a seperate issue. That needs to be addressed in the VE tables. What tool are you using to log BLM?

Im using win-aldl and tuner PRO. I just thought that being @14.7 on the LM-1 and 120 BLM on winaldl is strange. The Wide band controller feeds both my Winaldl and my Wideband LM-1. Since i am new im sure im doing something wrong. but the blm's look a alot better than they were. down low they were about 108 before and as lean as 140 something. I am copying my blm log. if you get a chance let me know what you think?

Oh seperate issue, im idling at about 12.2 afr. my stock bin idles about 13.2 AFR. how can i lean out my idle a tad? i did calculate BPW and the pressure correction factor.

The BLM's are doing exactly what they are supposed to do...keep the a/f ratio at 14.7:1. Basicly, if you were to lock the blm's at 128, or run it in open loop, it would be running slightly rich, maybe 13.8-14.0:1. By the blm going to 120, it is essentially leaning it out.

To lean it out at idle, just adjust the lower VE tables. Though depending on how large your cam is, you could be getting false readings on your o2 at low engine speeds. Mine started popping through the exhaust when i leaned it out at idle. It idled best at 12.5:1. Sounds like your on the right track for tuning it though.

I think I got it. See I keep telling myself that 14.7 is = to 128blm So in my theory when I see the afr at 14.7 I expect the blm to be at 128. Which it is running 14.7 but the blm of 120 says it needs to take more fuel out to keep it at my 14.7? Am I ok now?

It feels great besides the idle. I have the ex switch. To switch between x amount of bins. When I go back to stock it idles slightly better and a touch leaner. I added BPW but took out fuel in the lower ve's. But iv done some timing also. Maybe I got 2 much timing down around idle now? Another question. It ran like he'll running the timing @ 0 after the cam. So I had about 6-8 degrees of advance on the dist. During the tuning I set the dist to 2 degrees ( it wouldn't idle at 0) I thought I could tune for the timing I need to idle. So I set my initial timing in tuner pro to my 2 degrees. And just started advancing my main sa table. By 2 degrees at a time. Total advance is maybe 3-4 degrees throughout the table. It still has no sign of knocking. Well I had 1 or 2 pop up here and there. But nothing serious. Should I go a little more? Sorry about the novel, Spelling and everything else,I'm sure everyone has a headache by now. I'm writing from my I phone.

Ps the cam is mild like 212. And the motor has just been rebuilt. And lastly the engine donar vehical was 2k+pounds heavier than the jeep.

blm has no relationship to stoich. your WB(simulated NB) feedback is allowing ECU to run engine at stoich. 120 BLM is pulling fuel to make it right.

Quote:On seperate issue, im idling at about 12.2 afr. my stock bin idles about 13.2 AFR. how can i lean out my idle a tad? i did calculate BPW and the pressure correction factor.

If you are idleing in closed loop 12.2 means something is wrong. It may be your BLM at idle is off the BLM scale(<108) and ECU cannot correct. As Matt suggested that VE table cell you idle in (rpm/map) needs to be reduced. I would reduce VE 10% there and see what happens. Actually remove a little less in surrounding cells as well. Use the smoothing factor in TP. I use .90 and that smoothens little. You may want to go .80 and smoothen more.

I used to run the 7747 mask$42. Cant remember if it allows open loop idle? If it does check or uncheck box and try OL Id. Then you will run off OL vs coolant A/F tables. When I did so I was commanded to 14.7/1 at warm idle and WB showed 13.0? that told me my BPC was off. I since corrected and now commanded idle at 13.5/1 and I idle right there.

As far as timing. If dist is set to whatever(me 9.8dA) set the initial timing to same in bin. Then you will see SA real # in logs. I idle 17dA currently. My idle is locked there for SA and wont wander. Again not sure is $42 allows that.

Well to start! its always been rich at idle. even before the engine was in the jeep. I thought it was just tired. and after the rebuild i thought all would be good.

well today i realized i Did Not have the WB output voltages set correctly. and the numbers made more sense after i reprogrammed the WB.

I did back of 10% like suggested. if i blipped the gas hard it popped. but now its reading 14.6-15.2 @ idle. it is also idle hunting now. like its running out of fuel and the stall saver is picking it up? But the exhaust still smells like well you know. I think i've changed every sensor except the IAC & tps on the motor. and its got about 3-4 hundred miles on the rebuild and completly tuned up. It still runs very very stout. but i dont want to put a hole in the ozone layer.
Today i was installing a new AUX. AFR gauge into my dash. and only had it idleing. I think i can get the fuel on track quickly now. the numbers are making more sense. as for the smelly exhaust i guess thats another day and another thousand dollars

A/F looks normal. Pop is lean on AE. No learning here. I believe your mask is incremental at 61 usec. I would add add 10% more AE to TPS AE only and try that.
OBTW my AE Tps and AE MAP have equal numbers. Works for me maybe not for you. If still pops add 5% more. Keep in mind it will be incremental as when you save it will modify your #'s to multiples of 61.

Ok i added 10% into AE V TPS V Coolant temp.. the afr gauge is showing 15.1 @ idle but the blm's are 108 at idle.. and i took it for a ride when i romp on it ther going down to 11.1 AFR.. should i have added to the AE-TPS PW instead? my WOT AFR is set to 12.7 in most of the rpm range. im not sure if this matters or not but my idle is at 40 map @ 600rpm

Update. I reverted back to the stock tune.I added my 6* back at the dist. Added a 2* timing all over the board. And added 2 more PSI fuel.(0 knocks so far) the power is not as good but it idles better and running smoother. I think the BLM's look better as well? but your pro's can be the judge of that! i guess ill add some more timing and adjust the fuel tables some more, and see what happens. @ WOT its 12.50 AFR. Thanks for your help!!

I would adjust the VE tables B4 I touch the SA tables. Stock SA tables(truck=7747) should be close. Get (124-132) BLMs in line then address the SA and then back to VE again. AE coolant is a modifier of AE for cool coolant. On warm engine AE-TPS and AE-MAP is used for lean pop. Other AE modifiers as well depending upon mask($42, $61, etc.). Adding FP will drive BLM down(108). If you are 12.5/1 on WB for long WOT pull FP is right on. with connector disconnected SA at dist must match initial SA in .bin.

Thanks for your time and help Ronny! I follwed along pretty much what you suggested. But i reverted back to my BPC of 135 from 158 and added the 2 psi. BLMs are really close still need a little fine tuning. when my BPW was @158 my WOT pulls were reaching 10/1AFR. i started advancing timing again today by 2* it made some areas on my fuel tables richer? i thought it would be the oppisite, i thought i would have to add more fuel with the timing advanced. but i played with the VE tables a little and hope im pretty close. (didnt get a chance to log it yet).

I did set up my 6* in the inital SA table
Also it is the 42 mask

Thanks for the info on the AE-TPS & AE-Map i had no idea what to do with them. there is a 100 other tables i need to learn about, im using Hiway747XDF and it has an option for just about everything besides a rev and speed limiter. the is an item called RPM filter? it is set to 240 under constants.

one more question for you. Well since im using this thing in mud drag racing, any ideas how i can set up a tune for it? sometimes its hard to spin all 4 wheels in 3-4 feet of sticky mud and water. I think i mentioned that im using the EX remote. I would like to have a tune dedicated for my mud runs. do you think i should data log towing something medium heavy and then tune for it? or do i need to data log out in the mud? Any ideas?
And lastly i posted my last run in my sig below. the sfift light was in my face the whole time and i was caught in the moment and never let off, so i hope that RPM filter i asked about can help with that. i really dont want to blow it up!!

could be a couple areas to consider. I had similar issue develop a while back. could too much FP. If FP too high BLM cannot correct(as <108).

More likely the VE table is too rich when entering PE. PE is based off VE tables and BLM at that area where you transition to PE. That area is more difficult to datalog. Like higher RPMs and higher MAP area of VE. If VE table is too high it will show very rich when in PE. May want to pull some fuel in those areas when you enter PE. Or try to datalog those VE areas but again not so easy to do.

RPM multiplier. Add or subtracts form AE at that RPM unless table shows zero. You can add a neg number to pull fuel or add a positive number to add fuel for AE. Another tool. I recently changed my AE at higher RPMs(>2600) to pull fuel by adding a neg number. Earlier this year I had way too much AE. In fact my AE TPS and AE MAP only have 61 msec in tables at higher TPS and MAP and that still was too much(10.1/1 on WB). I used that RPM mult to reduce AE as was at 61msec a minimum in table. Now engine responds better and car just jumps when I go AE at RPMs over 2800.