DIY PROMDo It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.
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Good catch tequila. I'd have to agree. I would think you should be pulling 10 to 15 gms/sec at 7-800 rpm idle. I also think you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Could even be pulling air around the injector seals if they didn't seal up good.
I started to play with the values for the injector constant. I went down in size to 20 lbs and there seemed to be no difference. So I went and upped the MAF #1 table some. It starts like a hot damn, and it seems to idle higher and was smooth as a top, but after a good cruise she has a slight hunting still... (Vacuum leak as you suggested probably)
But I drove the car with the laptop hooked up and it seems that the only real issue with the High BLM's is at idle only
I am still getting used to tunerpro, I am not sure I even got the datalog from the drive... In tunerpro it says session 4, but I think it didn't save the datalog from the drive
The only other thing I noticed in tunerpro, is when I am connect to the ecm without the car running the MAF is already reading 5.0... Is that normal or is there an issue with the MAF?
Last edited by Grizzlee; 07-18-2010 at 07:36 PM.
Reason: Attaching CSV file...
Yeah I'd look for a leak to be sure. high idle like that sounds like a leak with low MAF flow.
Sometimes different injectors will have different spray patterns and require a different tune. I had accel 24lb injectors on my car and it changed the way it idled so i had to tweak alittle to make it happy.
Stupid question possibly on my part but, after installing the new injectors, did you do the idle air adjust procedure resetting the IAC and adjusting? If not, I'm guessing your car is still adjusted according to your old injectors?
What is that procedure? I may need to do that as well. I've been trying to find the right BPW for my injectors, and my engine is idling pretty high (1000rpm) and the iac was sitting at about 95 while idling cold.
I don't know if that's normal, or if that needs to be adjusted, or what.
"Tom Keliher Mar 31 2006 - 4:07pm
Idle Air Control
Tools needed:
1. Torx bit # T-20
2. Paper Clip
3. Small Punch
Take the paper clip and open it up and form it into a big "U" shape. Insert the clip ends into the ALDL in the 'A' and 'B' pins.
Turn on the ignition, but don't start the engine. Wait 30 seconds. Now, go remove the connector from the IAC.
Start engine. You are now going to adjust "minimum air". There is a Torx screw on the side of the throttle body. This is what needs to be turned to adjust minimum air, or more commonly known as "idle speed". It comes from the factory with a protective metal cap over it. If the cap is still there, use a small punch to knock it out. Set the idle speed to 450 rpm, rotating the Torx screw clockwise to raise rpm, and counter-clockwise to lower rpm. Once the idle rpm is set, turn off the engine.
Re-connect the connector onto the IAC. Start engine. Idle speed is now once again governed by the ECM, but your idle should be smooth and steady, approximately 600 rpm in Drive (for unmodified cars).
If you set an SES light by having the IAC disconnected, then after shutting down the engine disconnect the negative battery terminal. Wait 5 minutes. This will clear the ECM of all trouble codes. Re-connect the battery and drive the car for 20 minutes to allow the ECM to relearn your driving style."
I guess it's not the same for TBI, which is what I have... I assumed they'd be the same, but I guess not. There's no torx on my IAC. Is there a way to adjust the IAC on a TBI? The only think I can see is maybe turning the whole valve and screwing it further in/out of the TBI itself?
I can post a picture of my IAC valve, if need be. This idle is at 1000 RPM, and it's really annoying. I'd like to get it down around 650-700. Changing the target idle speed in my PROM didn't do anything.
Hello, Got a question for ya and need some assistance since I can not find it anywhere. I have to replace injectors on my 89 pontiac formula 350 5.7 liter. can you talk me thru how to do it.
I know you have to release fuel pressure which i was told the fuel cap can be removed to accomplish this.
I know the fuel rail has to be removed but don't know how to do that.
Also know the exhaust manifold has to be removed and also not really too sure as to do that. I have a shop that wants to charge me 300 to do the job but I do not have the money to get 6 more injectors and to have the job done.
I am pretty mechanically inclined as well as my friend who will be helping me. Once we hear or see how to do the job, It is as good as done.
Any assistance would be most appreciated. Would you mind helping?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
Ok, so do I have to adjust the IAC then? Its great off idle and I got it running well by enriching the MAF 1 table... To much so, i could smell the fuel but it started like a hot damn. So I reburnt a factory tuned chip. It's harder to start but it will run. So do i adjust the IAC?
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3" American Thunder Exhaust, installed 3.73 gearing in 9 bolt disc brake (myself) Grant GT Steering wheel, Alpine 1505 Expert, 2 12" Rockford HX2's and 505 Alpine Expert.
3rd brake light (L.E.D.'s)
Headlight/Tailight black outs, Chrome C6's ARE HERE!
Was hoping someone could back me up here as I have not worked with TBI before but it looks like the same deal between TPI/TBI. When you change the amount of fuel being delivered, if you did say your old injectors were putting out less fuel or inconsistent, and now your new injectors are being more efficient or something, you may need to adjust your IAC. My car was having an issue at idle, hunting. If I would get the car off idle, raise the rpm it would stop hunting. Now that I've adjusted the IAC, cleaned it out, old one was shot, bought a new one it runs great. For as easy as the process looks, might be worth it to check it out.