jjcuff1

I am tuning my Spark Table. the stock APYM had like 37-42 from 1800rpm to 4800 all under 112 LV8. I am ok here no knocks, but I have dialed out spark to avoide knock, (checking for false) but I drop like from 96 to 112 from 30-34 to 27 then in the 160 to 22,21,19 at 208

I also see that upper RPM the spark goes back up a few degrees across the board but since above 4400 I think it is moot I ignore.

So will drastic shifts like 2-5 degrees from 1 cell to next cause knock or problems? should I do small increments?

if I find that car likes 22-24degree range for PE above 144lv8. does it make sense to just have all cells from 200RPM and up and LV8 144+ just all 1 value and leave lower cells all 1 value say 30?

will that cause odd power/knock or leaving power on table by not fading down from say 35-34-33 etc

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Give it what it wants but the general pattern is more lv8 (load), the less overall spark is needed. More rpm, the more spark is needed. Around peak torque rpm, typically see dip in spark, slightly less spark here as that is peak airflow and cylinder pressure.
Tapers back up as hp peak rpm approaches...to a point

jjcuff1

Got it makes sense., so if I wen from 2000-4800 rpm lv8 196 and all at 22 now can too low spark at the upper RPM cause knock?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I dont think too low spark will see knock. 22 is awfully low if no pe is being added in the other table. Surprised thats all the timing you can get into that motor. May be false. I know my 305 is doing that at wot but still pulled timing when i removed 8-10 deg. So i know its false.

jjcuff1

Yes the car runs and idles strong sound great down low and i have fuel. I get knock at that spot no matter what i do. I think it is false and it is loud at that moment. I have a bad exhaust leak and cat bypass on passenger side.

I pulled back spark and added spark and still always retard at same points. I can feel and hear it in the car it falls flat at those points but prior to retard the car is pulling and building power.

I have the other PE table all zero too so I am at 20-23 degrees at PE and high LV8/RPM. I am going to diable the reatrd as a test and run it as-is no changes to see what happens then I will add spark back in

it is a stock 305 with full tune up and new injectors gaskets and no egr air or cold start I think even old heads and sat for a while it still should do 28 at PE and 33 at idle

jjcuff1

Well test run with no retard except 1 degree at 4000 and lv8 196 I had much had no knock except at that point, weird since the table was no PE retard. It ran MUCH better and sounded fine and felt much stronger. I am definitely slipping at 1-2 shift on heavy throttle stabs.

I am runnign rich now at lower speeds. I tweaked tables and still kept PE advance at 0 degrees but I copied the stock spark table back. Which means I added about 2-5 degrees back in from 2000-3600. This means I am still only at 27 from 144 to 20-22 at WOT still safe but much stronger. I zero out the knock completely to remove the 196 knock and tweaked the MAF fuel at 1-2 tables.

MY AE is still bugging me, I am not sure which table has most impact. I either bog or feel sluggish from dead stop to mid sat. if I have %bpw vs aysnc in 1-3 at 3.98 max I get tire squeal but reads lean. I play with the pulses by temp I run 15-16 pulses

the %AE enrichment is also sensitive seems to work at 15-16% at 0 and 64 lv8

hard to tweak since they all seem to have impact

jjcuff1

Good news. I removed the knock and some more fuel from the top end PE. I think the MAF tables, no pe, already provide enough fuel where extra PE makes it too rich at least at 20-30% enrichment adder. So I know I need to tweak the MAF 4-5 more. I added a lot of fuel early on in my tune and bumped scalers.

That said, the car drives really good, lots of power and pull from off idle to cruise and tip-in feel torque, pull and car launching up. I put the stock table back to stock APYM and I added like 2-3 degrees ofr the PE adder. I think i can add a little more. Stock was like 4-6.

Idle rich/lean seems good, car is not heating up. (good not lean or too much timing)

I think PE is off still leaving power on table. Depending on where I punch it it responses better from mid throttle roll then from dead stop. From dead stop it starts to bark and pull then flattens out, big tranny shift at 2400/24mph locks then pulls.

I have played a lot with AE and put it back to stock too and will start again. I think it is lean from stab. I had 3.98 in first 3 pulses and that gave me tiring barking everywhere but flat mid throttle.

Any tips or things to look for to help tune dead stop launch and AE? Should I disable it first or push PE in sooner ( I have PE starting at 40%?)