INJ1 fuse keeps blowing... - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Dragroc · 04-21-2003, 11:30 PM

I got in my car the other day to go to work, cranked it up...started just fine...went to the mailbox, drove just fine, then got to the stoplight right outside the neighborhood, and the car died on me...I immediately tried to start it again, it hesitated for about 10 seconds before it cranked again, and when it started, it was running really rough...I tried to drive off from the stoplight and it stalled out and again it took about 10 secs to get it cranked again. So I ended up just turning around and decided to head back to the house before I ended up having to tow it. When I got it back to the house, I let it run for a bit looking over the engine bay for any mishaps, and couldn't find the first wire loose or anything of the like...so I let it cool down for a while and came back a couple of hours later and cranked it up again, once again taking its sweet time to start. I touched the passenger side headers and they were all hot, so I went to the drivers side and touched all of the header tubes and everyone of them were cold. I couldn't think of anything other than to check the left bank injector fuse and of course it was blown. So I replaced it and the car started and ran just fine again, until it blew again...So I traced the wiring back as far as I could see it and everything was fine...looked at the wiring for the injectors in the engine bay and everything was fine...but the car keeps on blowing the "inj1" fuse...Anyone have any ideas on where to go about pinpointing the problem?

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Dragroc · 04-22-2003, 03:22 AM

ttt

GTA89 · 07-03-2009, 01:15 PM

Hi all,

I m having exact the same problem now, can somebody please
tell me what to do ? the INJ1 fuse keeps blowing...

GTA89 · 07-06-2009, 01:05 PM

Somebody ? The problem is exact the same as Dragroc told above...
I have tried the search machine but no real answer/solution for my problem.

What's happening with my car ? again... the INJ1 fuse keeps blowing.
This happens when i turn on the ignition.

Looking forward to hear from you...

Billy_Bob · 07-06-2009, 01:34 PM

I would use a factory wiring diagram to see what all that fuse went to specifically. Then inspect the wiring and connectors. Then use an amp meter to see how much amperage was being drawn. There might be an INJ2 fuse which you could compare with.

Then If these were to the injectors and to an injector control unit, I would compare amperage draw with each injector and the control unit with the other side.

Note that the 10A multimeters they sell in auto parts stores are worthless because if you try to measure more than that, it will wreck the meter. Some vehicles these days have 100 amp alternators! So I don't know why they still sell those dinosaurs?

Anyway get a good 100 AMP *DC* (Must say 100 amp DC, not AC) amp meter (ammeter) or larger capacity.

89-bird · 07-06-2009, 01:41 PM

If you want it to run and be able to find the problem you can go to the parts store and get a reset breaker that plugs into the fuse slot and it will open like a fuse but reset so power will still get where it is going . I had a fuse problem with my gauge fuse and installed the breaker then found my volt gauge was loose on the back of the cluster and causeing the fuse to blow I fixed the problem and left the breaker in for reassureance .

GTA89 · 07-06-2009, 02:03 PM

Hi all,

Thanks a lot for you help, i will post the results back very soon..

89-bird · 07-06-2009, 02:15 PM

We'll be waiting .

GTA89 · 07-06-2009, 03:47 PM

Hey not that fast hehe, i live in the Netherlands, its too rainy and dark outside now..
i will try it tommorow...subscribe to this post please, so that you don't have to wait all the day...

I also noticed that the fuse in the INJ1 is 15 amp ??! while the text is saying 10 amp?
btw, that should not the problem, because i drove the car for years and have never
seen the fusebox properly before till now ! can somebody check the fusebox below please ?
does it looks okay ? I mean are those fuses correctly installed, with the right amps ?

Billy_Bob · 07-06-2009, 08:13 PM

If it says 10, it should be 10.

Note the other side is working just fine on a 10.

BTW, the very first thing I check with fuse blowing problems is do-it-yourself wiring and add-ons. So follow the wire from that and see if someone tapped into it and/or bared the wire somewhere and it is shorting to ground.

It is best to make the wiring look like factory. Wrapped in electrical tape with that black plastic tubing around it. This protects it from rubbing up against sharp metal objects and shorting to ground (and blowing fuses).

bald_noggin · 07-07-2009, 01:07 AM

Try replacing the fuse and starting the car with the idea being to get the injectors warm. When the fuse fails, switch the car of and the ohm test the injectors. Reading should be in the 16 ohm range. You may have an injector going into the low ohms range or an injector is shorting out when it gets hot.

If they check out OK, then I'd say you have an intermittent short somewhere in your harness.

Best way to check for an intermittent short is to use a continuty meter on the injector side of the fuse (not the +12V side!!) to ground. Then try moving your wiring harness around by pushing and pulling on it. If you use a digital multimeter (DMM), it should make a beep noise when it shorts outs.

Its a matter of working out exactly where in the harness the problems lays.

Still use a 10 Amp fuse as that's the way it's designed. The current draw with four injectors within ohm spec should only be 3 Amps.

Good luck!

GTA89 · 07-23-2009, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billy_Bob

If it says 10, it should be 10.

Note the other side is working just fine on a 10.

BTW, the very first thing I check with fuse blowing problems is do-it-yourself wiring and add-ons. So follow the wire from that and see if someone tapped into it and/or bared the wire somewhere and it is shorting to ground.

It is best to make the wiring look like factory. Wrapped in electrical tape with that black plastic tubing around it. This protects it from rubbing up against sharp metal objects and shorting to ground (and blowing fuses).

first i want to thank you all

and yes we finally found the problem !
You were right Bill... it was because of the do-it-yourself wiring and add-ons
one of the wires that was connected to the car alarm and dual pods was too loose...

this was the problem.. however we already taped it.. but the quality of that
black plastic tubing thing was too bad... it was too loose... i had to re-wire
it again and solder it... and re taped again... yes with a better quality tape... the car is running fine again :-)
greetings from the Netherlands ;-)