I've been having problems with my electrics in my car for a while now. First, my shifter switch is iffy, the reverse lights light up only when I hold the shifter completely in the back of the gear, and I have no starting in Neutral. Second, I can't keep my batt charged at all. The batt was replaced in November of last year (I have the owner's receipt from Autozone), and I can't keep it charged now for more than three days at a time. I have to use a portable jumpstarting unit to start the car after three days. I don't think my stereo is the problem, but just in case, I run an Eclipse 180W head unit with a Jensen 340W amp. I am going to replace my alternator as soon as possible with a reman one, and need to know if I am taking the right road.

Before you do anything, check for a drain on the battery in the off position. To do this take one of your battery terminals off and use a test light or multimeter to test between the terminal and the battery post itself. If the test light lights up, you know your battery is being drained in the key off position. To isolate the drain pull one fuse at a time until the light goes out. The fuse that turns the light off is your drain. If there is no drain your alternator is the next step.

that could be tough, seeing as how I have no way to hook up my alt at the moment and hold it in place. My bracket's broke and has been that way for a while, but now it's toast. Anyone have any leftover P/N 14102622 brackets? I'd buy a new one, but I don't see why I should pay $100 for a hunk of aluminum that's been shaped.

Also, my batt is producing less than 8 volts right now and the only charger I have is the alternator, so that test is going to have to wait a while.

BTW, isn't there going to be a drain on the battery anyways? The CD player has to have a battery to keep its settings, right? I'm also sure that the ECM has a backup as well so it can keep it's settings intact...

Okay, I found a way to support the alt during the test and found a power "leak". It's connected to the fuse in between the INJ2 fuse and the circuit breaker on the right side of the panel. My fuse panel is pretty well rubbed off so I can't tell what it is, but I think it may be the CTSY I've been having problems with. Does anyone know about what this controls?

isnt ctsy you courtsey lights and cigrette lighter and stuff like that?

Now that is one thing I am not sure about. I don't have a manual so I ain't sure... I'll have to look it up in another manual, but I think it's for the interior lights and lighter and accesories, becuase I know that if I pull that fuse, I lose all interior lights, radio memory, power windows and locks, and who knows what else...

Okay, I know now that that fuse is the ACC fuse, but isn't it supposed to drain the battery when the ignition is off to keep the radio memory? Other than that and the ECM, I have no idea what is killing my battery, and I am going to get a reman alt ASAP.

A very common problem is the displays in the factory radios in these cars. Is your radio factory?? If so, does the display stay lit when the car is off? If yes. There is what is killing your battery. I have changed hundreds of these radios for this very problem.

Could it be the security light in my new CD receiver? I never thought of that. I have an Eclipse CD3402 with the ESN tracking disabling system and have enabled the security feature. Should I turn it off? I ended up ditching the factory radio after the left rear channel cut out, besides, I have to have CD playing capabilities, you know?

Well this problem is more so for the factory radios, and not for the aftermarket ones, but it may be worth a try anyway.