im trying to install this flamethrower exhaust kit on my car. i need to find the ignition wire??? and i need to find the negative wire coming from the coil, but there are five diffrent wires, two diffrent wire harnesses one had three wires, the other has two. its a 2.8 if that helps.

You might want to ask this in the Electronics part of the board since you might get a real response.

BTW do you have a link to this flamethrower exhaust kit?

I am going to be real with you. You are better off searching google. I will not flame you, but 99.99% of the forums will. I am sure you can understand that this isn't the fast and the furious, and some people take domestic appearance seriously.

ok first thing i hate ricers. im going for the 50's hot rod look, with small little short flames. not no big fire balls you seen on fast and furious. and my camaro would not even remotely look like a foreign p.o.s old school all the way.

thats my car, clearly not a ricers.

This subject has been talked about before over the years with no problems not sure why you think 99.99% of people here are haters it doesn't help to start the responses with all that does is get everyone else on the bandwagon and you should know by now this is a 3rd gen tech board I hope.

My concern is that if you cant find the right wire on your own, what are you doing playing with fire?

And dont forget your "bumper" is plastic, not some 50's hunk of steel

Moved.

Please use "Report a Post" for future cases. Thanks.

is better than "go buy a civic" just keep in mind of what was not said.

Use the either pink wire at the coil for igniton power. And use either white wire at the coil for the negitave. If you have a cat convertor on your car you will have to get rid of it before you will get good results from the flame thrower kit.

That depends....I've seen some kits that actually add a injector at the rear, not just igniting unburned fuel. It has to be plumbed into the fuel system though. I'd hate to be within 10 ft of one of those though!

yeah this one just shoots little flames that are light from the unburned fuel. but my car for some reason runs very rich.

Which kit? And how much? I actually wouldn't mind having one too!

i got it on ebay for $17. plus shipping.
all you need to buy is an igniton coil(the old style with the postive and negative terminals)
and a coil wire, with the male boot.
two of each if its for dual.
its called flaming kitz.

Let us kno how it works out, and post a video of it, if ya can.

I'd hafta do duals on mine.

Never understood the kit thingy.Used ta have a 79 nova and a 79 cuttlas supreme that were flamers.Just run rich mix and stick a couplea cheap butt sparkplugs in the exhaust,Run a simple slavage yard cheap coil in the trunk with a spliced/split sparkplug wire to the plugs off a toggle switch under the dash.When ya flip the switch ya get flames.Theres also the propane setup but thats dangerous as heck so i won't explain it.But if ya have side pipes like on my nova ya have to remember to not be standing next to the car when yer olelady revs it up with the switch on.(hard to get over the burned hair smell)

well the kit dont work.
i spent all saturday mrning hooking it up, then tryed it, no spark in the tail pipe.
then spent all saturday afternoon checking all the wires to make sure they had good conection, still no spark.
sunday morning spent making my own kit, just ran a switch to the fuse box and then to the coil, then grounded the coil, still no spark.
i dont know what im doing wrong. probally some thing simple i am overlooking.
try again tomorow.

I think for the coil to fire, the switch will hafta be a on/off switch, not simply turned on. Maybe a momentary switch would work best?

In othher words, it won't fire until it is turned off? Just speculating here.

well i was using the swith that came with the kit, im not sure how many amps it was it doesnt seem powerfull enough to run a coil anyway but, i went and bought a little i think 10 amp switch from the store. so im thinkin that if i get like a 30 amp toggle switch it might help out. also i had a in-line fuse before the coil with a 20 amp fuse, maybe if i make the a 30 amp to it would help.
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also could you explain what a momentary switch is some one else told me to look into that also, but i had no idea the diffrence.

a coil does not fire off a spark plug when power is applied to it.

it fires when power is taken away from it.

inorder to get a bunch of short sparks, one after the other, (so it looks like an arc), you need to basiclly turn that switch on and off very fast.

to do this, most use an electrical box.... or they re-route the stock coils "signal" to the rearmounted coil... so that while the flametrhower is on, the engine is freewheeling and the engine is triggering the rear coil to spark.


no offense, but i think you should do some more basic research before continuing onward.

^^^ On the money. To coil is just a transformer and needs and AC (kinda) signal to generate high voltage. Run a wire from one for the accessories wires to a switch (this will be your B+), then from the switch to the + side of the coil. Then run the - side of the coil to the signal wire on the coil under the hood. I think is the pink wire on the coil under the hood, may the white one. Check both wires (it's one of the two) with the car running. One should read 12V, the other should read something less then 12V. That's the 'signal wire' and should get you spark from the second coil.

There are a couple of problems doing one for these in modern cars.
One is the ignition module has to fire two coils when the switch is on, this means twice the current through the coil driver. I don't know what effect this will really have on the ignition module, but it can't be the best thing for it. The old cars (and most modern bikes, where I've played with flamers) with points setups would be much more tolerant of this abuse.
Two is if the exhaust pipe isn't long enough you'll melt the bummer. Old cars had metal bumpers, and not a problem on most bikes.
Three would be the cat. If you still have one don't expect the best results. On older cars you didn't have cats, and enrichment is easy. You just pulled out the choke knob (or enrichment knob on a bike) and you had all the unburnt fuel you needed.
And the fourth is the installer. I really hope you see from the fist paragraph that I'm not trying to be an d*** here. But really, if you had to ask the questions you did, and tried to install the coil the way you did, you may what to find some that has done this before to help you out in person, not over the net. There are a couple big problems you could run into playing with flamers, and the stakes are high, because the stakes are your car and the safety of you and your passengers.
Also . If you car is running rich something isn't working right. I would suggest that you fix this problem, because it IS a problem, something isn't right. I really hope you take that the right way, I just don't what to see you damage your car or hurt yourself or someone with you. It's your choise, but I hope you find someone to help out eye to eye, or at lest hold off for a year or two so you get some more knowledge under your belt fist. I get the nostalgia thing, and I think they kinda cool. I put one on my old bike. But you are play with fire, and in you car you can't see if something goes wrong until is to late.
See ya, and be safe.

Perhaps the signal could only be used as a trigger, not really as an power source for the 2nd coil? The switch recieves the signal, but a solenoid provides the actual power for it. That way, the module isn't doing double duty.

If you mean to trigger a relay, you could do it that way, but that is vary fast for the relay to act. But, if your thinking relay a would suggest setting one up to chatter. This is vary hard one the relay, the contacts WILL pit. I have played with doing one this way and it can work, it might last through a summer, that replace the relay. I didn't keep it this way because it was just as easy to use the points, I wired the power through the horn switch. Lost the horn on that bike, and my new one for that matter. Run B+ to the post on the switch side of the relay. Then from the normally closed side of the switch to one side of the relay coil, the other side of the coil to ground. When you give this thing B+ it will pull in the relay, the post goes to the normally open side of the switch and disengages the coil, then the post falls back to the normally closed side and reengages the coil and just keeps on going. Then wire the B+ side of this second coil to the normally open side of the relay and - to ground. As the relay chatters it will 'pules' B+ to the coil. You could try it and see how long it lasts...

thats how i built my first ignition system.. however, the relay didnt even last long enough for me to install it..
with no load (other then the relay itself) it'll last a reasonably long time.. but with the full load of the coil, it will not last very long if you leave it constantly on... if you only do it for a couple seconds at a time, it'll last a bit longer, but still, its a very short life.

the trick way to do it is very simple.
go get a ignition module. this will be your transistor based "relay"
build/buy a 555 timer circuit. this is a very simple circuit that will make a "pulse" signal.
you feed this pulse signal into the ignition module. this makes the ignition module think the motor is turning... so it fires off the coil.
its simple and reliable.

reliable is a VERY important thing with flamethrowers.
if that fuel doesnt catch when it goes buy, you give it a greater chance to build a puddle/cloud
if that fuel buildup catches, it can explode your exhaust system, balloon out your muffler, or alot worse.

for that reason, along with the electronic box ignition, i highly recommend a window switch.. a window switch will allow the flamethrower to work, only if the engine is spinning fast enough to pump enough air to have a good moving airflow.
thats another thing.. airspeed.. if you have dual 3" tips.. stop now.
you want some speed on that exhaust.. and since you cant increase the volume of air, you need to decrease the pipe size to increase the speed of the air flowing thru it. if you must run duals, 2" will work decently.... you'll note that alot of the big flamethrower guys run tiny exits on their exhausts.. thats why.. it forces the air out further.

well i started the whole thing over, from scratch. i followed the very confusing directions extensivley. and it now works. im guessing before i didnt actually have it hooked up to the actual igniton wire, but it is no cuase when i press the button down it sparks, and for some reason, the radio and lights all turn off. i dunno why but it works. thanks for the help.

Any chance for video? If you need a place to host the video, send it to me, and I'll upload and host it for ya.

I'm curious to see how long the flames are.

thats because you're cutting all ignition-on power to the entire car, instead of just the ignition-on power to just the coil

i cant do a video, cuase ive got no recorder. but the flames are decent. they aren't like fireballs or anything huge. they are just short little 5-10 inches. it doenst look like the flames in like a fire, but like the kind coming out of a jet. pretty cool looking, cant wait to see it at night.

cool!

grab a friend and have them take some pics.

Get some pics of no flames partial flame more flame, full flame, etc., and I'll see about putting them together in an animated gif, like my avatar. Except, my avatar was made from a video, broken into frames, like 0.2 seconds apart.

Theres your answer for how long it would last. Arcing as the field collapses must be nuts. I didn't run my more then playing with the install.

You could use the tach signal to drive a FET to switch the coil too. Probably do it that way with less parts.

I must've skipped over this thread. Here's some video of the setup I made. Uses a microcontroller triggering two ignition coils at 70hz or so via TIP-120 darlington transistors. A 555 timer will do just as well (I just didn't have one laying in the parts box).


No burnt bumper yet, with downturns I haven't had a problem, even with flames licking upwards occasionally the paint doesn't even seem to get warm. Though the 60 seconds of video I took just about sums up all the times I've ever used it.

that is a good idea!

heh, i was thinking the other day.. if i wanted to make one on the LS1, i could just kill one bank of coils...
the other bank would still run.... meaning i could hold a high RPM (car will run fine on 4 cyls) while the other 4 pump a good amount of O2 rich air in.....
i'll be using propane for the flamethrower fuel source..... should be cool.

I don't think a V8 will run good on one bank or the other only. As for 4 cylinders, sure. Left or right bank only? No. Maybe 2 left, 2 right, alternating cylinders.

oh, it works just fine. ask anyone whos forgotten to plug the coil pack connector on....
it has a loppy idle because of the odd fire..
for example with either one of our motors, heres the passenger side unplugged

(F = Fire N = Nothing)

my LS1:
1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3
F-N-F-N-N-F-N-F

your SBC
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
F-N-N-F-N-F-F-N


notice that yes, there are two non-firing events after each other, but there are also two firing ones one after the other.
the flywheel can compensate long enough to keep up.. it will rev, no problem.

you do you have to use the ignition coil couldnt you use some other power source? I'm not a big electronics wiz but i was thinking couldnt use use a capacitor or possibly an amp or really even a second battery and just ground it to the body. You'd have constant power and wouldnt have to think about not holding rpms or kill half your electrical like pairtoe's kit.
Its just an idea dont flame me if it cant work just explain why.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...64015d9476.htm

thats the kit i bought and put on my lil bro's car... ( snatching to put on mine now tho..) very easy to install.