Rotor Removal
#1
Rotor Removal
Changing out cap and rotor as part of a general tune up on an 88 Formula L98 with 20k. Everything is a little "tight" as the car has sat. Stupid Question = how do you get the stock rotor off?? Replacement looks like it might snap/lock onto the distributor shaft so do you have to destroy the original to get it off? It doesn't come off with any normal persuasion. My next step is to dremel it off but I figured I'd ask before regretting it.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Put a block of wood on the rotor and tap tap tap it with a hammer. Dont smack it.
Now try to wiggle it like a see saw. If it doesnt loosen up tap tap tap again this time on the edges like a see saw.
These are prone to stick. It is a tight fit and the rotor has a metal clip that holds it agains the shaft. It has now rusted and is bound to the shaft. Tou need to break the rust free.
BE CAREFUL, be patient it will come off.
Now try to wiggle it like a see saw. If it doesnt loosen up tap tap tap again this time on the edges like a see saw.
These are prone to stick. It is a tight fit and the rotor has a metal clip that holds it agains the shaft. It has now rusted and is bound to the shaft. Tou need to break the rust free.
BE CAREFUL, be patient it will come off.
#4
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: Mild 10:1 355.
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
I have the weird cap and rotor, and my rotor has 2 itty bitty bolts in it, like 7 mm's, that you have to undo. Yours is either a pull off, or those 2 little bolts. shouldnt be too hard.
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: houston
Posts: 2,262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
joejakegrace, i take it you have the push on type rotor & not the one that is held on by 2 small screws or bolts.
when i find one of the push on rotors that is stuck, i take a shop towel & grab the rotor & give it a good twist, that shears the little piece of plastic inside the rotor off. the old rotor then comes right off, remove the piece of plastic from the slot in the dist shaft, put a very small amount of grease on the shaft where the rotor fits & push the new rotor on.
when i find one of the push on rotors that is stuck, i take a shop towel & grab the rotor & give it a good twist, that shears the little piece of plastic inside the rotor off. the old rotor then comes right off, remove the piece of plastic from the slot in the dist shaft, put a very small amount of grease on the shaft where the rotor fits & push the new rotor on.
#7
I got it!! Thanks. I actually went with my approach before I read these and it was just a little oxidized/stuck on with the metal clip. I dremeled a cut down the side of it and twisted it gently - it came right off in pieces. Put a tiny tab of anti seize on the inside of the new unit. 8 new plugs (and hands full of burn scars from the headers), new wires, new rotor, cap, coil, AND....DRUM ROLL...IAC - which it turns out was the culprit to my cold idle problem 50% of the time.
Saw the piece in HIPO Pontiac on testing the IAC, did that and it seemed to work - put it back in the block and car wouldn't start!!! (ran rough with it connected and out) - bought a new one and Wahla!!
Saw the piece in HIPO Pontiac on testing the IAC, did that and it seemed to work - put it back in the block and car wouldn't start!!! (ran rough with it connected and out) - bought a new one and Wahla!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post