ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
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my blower hasn't worked on high speed since I bought the car. Weird thing is that 10 years ago I had an '85 Firebird that had the same issue.
Anyway, I've replaced the high-speed blower relay and the switch itself and still have the same issue. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what was the problem?
I'm just trying to save myself a little time here, I have to do a fuel pump & filter change this weekend & recharge my A/C, so I just don't think I'll have time to troubleshoot it myself. Maybe just a step in the right direction?
Thanks!
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__________________ '89 Camaro RS V6 2.8 Automatic
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I haven't had this problem, but have you checked for voltage at the high speed relay? Pull the plug off the high speed realy. The RED wire should be hot all the time. Connect a volt meter between the RED wire treminal and the BLACK wire terminal in the plug.
If you don't have 12 volts here then you have found your problem. The RED wire is connected to a fusible link (probably at the starter) and provides voltage and current to the blower motor for the HIGH SPEED switch postion only.
If you have 12 volts on the RED wire, place the ignition in run ( don't start the car) place the blower switch in HIGH and place the function slider in any postion except off. Now check for 12 volts between the ORNAGE and BLACK wire terminals in the plug. If you don't have 12 volts here, the ORANGE wire is broken some where between the blower switch and the realy. You will need to repair/replace it. The ORANGE wire provides 12 volts to the High Speed Realy coil when the HIGH position is selected on the Blower Speed Switch.
You might want to visit this link and check out Figure 45... the AC/Heat controls will be top center and top right in the diagram....
Long ago, I experienced a similiar problem (though I don't recall if the problem occurred at high speed or the lower). In my case, the resistor was burned in two.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
The resistors are in the low speed settings circuit. The high speed setting does not have any resistiors in the circuit.
So yes, if you are missing a low speed setting on the blower motor, you will also have to check the resistor package. It is located under the connector behind the high speed relay. Pull the connector, remove the two hex head screws and pull the resistor package out. If one or more of the wire coils is broken, you will have to replace the unit.
In the attached photo, the resistor network is under the gray connector. You may have to blow some of the dirt out of the way to see it clearly
The resistors are used in the low 3 speeds ONLY. They CANNOT POSSIBLY cause the high speed to fail.
Find the blower motor high speed relay. It will be a small box near the blower itself. You can follow the thick purple wire from the blower to the relay. The relay will have a couple of small wires, the thick purple one, and a thick red one. The red one feeds raw battery to the relay, which then feeds it to the motor, thereby bypassing the ENTIRE rest of the car's wiring and delivering the highest possible voltage to the blower. Or, maybe not.... follow the red wire away from the relay. It will go up, to the windshield cowl, and over toward the driver's side. About at the point where it reaches the pass side valve cover, you will find a connector. Disconnect that extremely stupidly designed connector and observe that it has burnt completely to ashes, like everybody else's. There's your problem, same as everbody else.
Cut that idiotic thing off; and replace it with a pair of the BIG THICK HEAVY-DUTY yellow slide terminals. Not, the little weenie ones that are just like the blue and red ones except with a yellow barrel; look for the BIG THICK HEAVY-DUTY ones. Try to find insulated ones if possible. If not, cover the outer one with a piece of heat shrink.
There is another similar connector that produces a similar result, except that this one disables the ENTIRE HVAC electric subsystem. To repair that stupidity, remove the HVAC control head from the dash; look at the "mode" switch, that's worked by the big lever; note that it has (I think) 3 wires: one green, one some other color that goes to the fan switch, and one brown. Follow that brown wire. It is the supply to the system from the car's main harness. About 15" or so into the dash from the control head, you will come upon a connector identical to that stupid one for the high speed blower feed, except this one will be smaller. It will be equally burnt to ashes. Replace it as well, with the same type terminals as described above.
After changing those 2 connectors out, you may be amazed at how much better your whole HVAC works; especially, the blower will blow more.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
Sofa. Man if I could hug you I would. I followed this thread, and I was having the same exact problem. I cut the red wire's connector and put one of those heavy duty connectors on it. After I did that, it wouldn't start. I went back and moved a couple things and then it started. I don't what I did, but it did it. I havn't had the last couple speeds in two years, and now I have it for winter. Thanks THanks THAnks THANks THANKs THANKS
Do us a favor guys, and describe what that factory connector looked like when you unplugged it. Or, if you can, post a pic of it.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
Do us a favor guys, and describe what that factory connector looked like when you unplugged it. Or, if you can, post a pic of it.
Hey Sofa. Does this red wire have anything to do with the car starting?? I'm just making sure. Because, if it doesn't start at a later date, I'll know what it is. I drove around and it works great.
I couldn't figure out how to unplug it so I broke it in half.The plug is grey, and it was all burnt up inside. It almost looks like some kind of fuse inside. I'm getting a camera tommorrow, so I'll post a pic. then. Thanks again.
Does this red wire have anything to do with the car starting??
No, sure doesn't. I have no idea why working on that would have disturbed the starter.... the starter wires are down at the bell housing flange (or were when the car was built, anyway). Not even close together. Maybe it's just a coincidence.
Those connectors get SO BURNT UP sometimes, that you wonder how they could have worked long enough to get as bad as they are.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
No, sure doesn't. I have no idea why working on that would have disturbed the starter.... the starter wires are down at the bell housing flange (or were when the car was built, anyway). Not even close together. Maybe it's just a coincidence.
Those connectors get SO BURNT UP sometimes, that you wonder how they could have worked long enough to get as bad as they are.
Yea I think I might have touched the ignition coil wire or something. Because, when I turned the key it didn't do anything. I can't remember which wires I moved when I went back, but I moved a couple wires when it didn't start. IDK. I wonder why they have a connector there, why not just a solid wire? GM sure does do some weird things, sometimes.
Because the wiring is built in modules and installed according to the car's options.
The HVAC wiring harness is installed as part of the HVAC assembly; and plugs into the other harnesses of the car where necessary. That feed is one of those interface points.
Go visit a vehicle assembly plant sometime. It's a REALLY COOL eye-opening experience. Doesn't even matter too much what kind of cars, since they're all built pretty much similarly; just watching the PROCESS teaches you a great deal about how it's done. Lots of stuff you can apply to your own car work. I highly recommend the Corvette plant in Bowling Green, KY; about 22 miles or so north of the TN border, about 50 yards from I-65.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
Because the wiring is built in modules and installed according to the car's options.
The HVAC wiring harness is installed as part of the HVAC assembly; and plugs into the other harnesses of the car where necessary. That feed is one of those interface points.
Go visit a vehicle assembly plant sometime. It's a REALLY COOL eye-opening experience. Doesn't even matter too much what kind of cars, since they're all built pretty much similarly; just watching the PROCESS teaches you a great deal about how it's done. Lots of stuff you can apply to your own car work. I highly recommend the Corvette plant in Bowling Green, KY; about 22 miles or so north of the TN border, about 50 yards from I-65.
That's kind of funny that you mention the Corvette Plant. I've been there twice in the past year. And I've been to the Museum twice too. I didn't even think about the need for the connector for the assembly process. It makes sense though, as they build it piece by piece and they want to get those cars out of the plant. So they put those connectors on there for the ease of installation. I'll get those pics. ASAP.
ok not sure what to do here. BUT my fan motor turns OFF and On so does my compressor for my a/c. will this resistor fix that problem? On Off On off. cant figure it out. im driving. ac is doing good then all of a sudden fan stops.. ac stops. roll the windows down.... as soonas i do that the ac starts again. drive with windows down for a few. ac comes on. then off again. what is the deal here?? checked alll connections. dont know what else to do. it even cuts off when just the vent is on. no blower no nothing. comes on intermitently.. please help me.. this florida HOT/rainy season is killin me.
__________________ 1986 Camaro Iroc-Z 350 TPI Corvette motor 700r4 trans, BMR strut tower brace,BMR adj.Panhard Rod,Energy Sway Bar links,Eibach Pro Kit,J&M street lower control arms,Accel Distributer,wires.Blacked out all lights.5% Limo tint all the way around.
I traced the red wire all the way to the other side of the car and i dont see a gray plug all i see is the big black one that is coverd in grime. Is that the one i need to target?
I traced the red wire all the way to the other side of the car and i dont see a gray plug all i see is the big black one that is coverd in grime. Is that the one i need to target?
There is a pic of there for you. It looks black in that pic
I'll get those pics. ASAP. 
