Hey guys I have a problem with my horn that I was hoping would be an easy fix. My horn quit working the other day (the cup popped out and touched metal). It went off at work and was blowing for a while. Any way when i popped it back in it must have shorted because I heard it click underneath the stearing column (horn relay) but no sound came out. Where else should I look after the relay as I am unable to find anything in the chilton manual. Thanks all.

Check the fuse

Is there another fuse besides the one on the fuse block underneath the steering column? I did check that and it looked ok. I could feel and hear the horn relay clicking when I pressed the horn down. Thanks!

Mgron

There is only one fuse in the horn circuit. Did you check it with a meter or just look at it?

If you look at message #2 in this thread, you will find the wiring diagram for the horn circuit.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/el...lp-please.html (a bit of wiring help please :D)

You might want to try the follwoing test with the help of a friend. You will also need a volt meter or test light. Disconnect the wire connector at the horn in the engine bay. Put on end of the test light or meter in wire connector (on the wire, not the horn) and touch the other lead of the test lamp or meter to ground. Have your friend press the horn button.

If the test light illuminates or the meter reads 12 volts (plus or minus) the circuit is good and the horn likely needs to be replaced. If the test light does not illuminate or the meter reads 0 volts, you are not getting power to the horn.

No power to the horn from the above test indicates that there is an open circuit in the wiring from the horn relay to the horn, or the relay is bad.

To check for an open in wiring, you will need to take the convenience center from under the dash and remove the horn relay. See the diagram on the right side of the page for the horn wiring. Determine which socket point is C, per the wiring diagram (it might be marked or put a reference mark on the realy and the convinence center before removing the realy). Put one side of an ohmmeter on that point and the other end on the still disconnect horn wire connector at the horn. If you read zero ohms make sure you have good electrical contact on both ends) the wiring is good. If you read a very large ohmic value, the wire has an open circuit in it between the two point.

If the wiring is good, I would try replacing the realy first. If you do that and the horn still does not work, then the horn is bad.

Good Luck

Dave

Thanks for the response. I have not been able to check this out yet but appreciate the help and ill update when I can. Thanks again Dave.

OK

We will wait and see what you find

Dave,

Thank you again for your help. Unfortunately I never did get a chance to fix the horn as my car was in a flood and totaled. The good news is that insurance covered the cost of the car which surprisingly was worth only $400 less than when I bought the car 10 years ago. I now have an order for the new camaro in should be getting it in the next few months. Thank you again!