so all of a sudden yesterday my brake lights quit working. i've searched around and found topics and tried things and here's where i'm at headlights dont work (i think the headlight switch went) high beams work. interior lights work. guage cluster works marker lights work reverse lights work hazard lights work i took a test light and checked the head light switch, the orange wire is working, the blue does when i step on the brake. theres power to the fuse block fuses look alright i took off the panels in the hatch and tested the wires there. all work. the blue ones do when i hit the brakes idk what else to do. even though the wires at the brake switch work, could the switch be bad?

If you have power on the blue wire all they way by the tail lights, I'd blame the bulbs, sockets, or the ground. It's not hard to pull the tail lights, they are held in by a few wing nuts each.

Lou

well i pulled the taillights and the bulbs looked alright. though my might be done. i just find it odd that both tail lights went out.
i thought about that.

the bulbs seem really hard to get out.

if it is a bad socket how would i replace it, cut the wires, get a new one and just reconnect?

and how would i go about fixing the ground?

You can put the test light on the sockets before you remove the bulbs. If you see voltage on the blue wire, that's good. If you see voltage on the ground wire (black), that'd indicate that the ground is bad (trace it and rebolt to the chassis).
If your test light lights up when connected between the black wire and blue wire by the socket, you have power to the socket and it's not a wire issue then.

When you remove the bulb, test the metal tabs inside the socket. If they have no power, the socket is bad.

If you have a bad socket, you can cut it off and solder on a new one (they go for $5-$8 at local car parts stores).

Lou

now that i think of it, it probably is the sockets. i checked them and i dont think there was any voltage.
and it looks like there was black gunk over them like you would find on the engine.

i'll check again tomorrow to make sure

ok an update.

i have this i guess continuity voltage tester.

it lights up for different things.

-continuity
- 6v
-12v
-24v
-48v
and then DC - and +

so i set the park lights on and checked a socket, it read Continuity, 6v, 12, and the DC was +

i moved my seat forward with my toolbox to rig the brakes.

i then checked a socket and it read continuity but that was it.

does this mean that the sockets are shot?

If the contacts inside the socket are oxidized or goo-ed over, they won't pass the current into the bulb. You can try cleaning the contacts (sure beats buying and installing a new socket) and that might help. If not, it's time for a new socket.

Lou

yeah like i said there is some black sludge stuff that you'd find on an engine, on the outside of the socket. some might be in, i opened it up and it seems like there tannish stuff, is it grease or something?

and its still weird how both of them went out at the same time

but i'll try cleaning them out

Just fixed my brake lights,after checking bulbs,fuses,switches,It ended up being the turn signal switch...

well i checked the plug in the hatch and coming from the front, all wires have power including the brakes.

however the wire coming from the back, doesn't, the continuity doesnt even show up on my tester.

i'll just run it straight then see.

also i unplugged it and havent put it back and i noticed my turn signals dont "blink"
its just solid.

is this because of that, or did something else go out >.<

the brakes do go through your turn signal switch,except the third brake light..okay so if your turn signals are not working,this could be the reason your brake lights dont,my turn signals still worked but my brakes wouldnt,however when I replaced the turn signal switch,they lit right up

hmm interesting, cause mine worked fine before i messed around with the plug, how hard is it to replace the turn signal switch?

hour or so if you have the tools,steering wheel puller,column tool.you can usually rent these.