ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
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The other day i was out trying to get my pos battery cable off my exhaust and i was having my 10 yr old brother help me out. Well, long story short he pulled on the wrong wire and i ended up with this:
How would i go about fixing this?
Its a 91 camaro and that is part of the factory 305 harness by the battery.
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__________________ 1991 Z28 Engine: '94 355 LT1, GM hot cam, 1.6 RR's, Ported Heads, Dyno Don's headers, #30 SVO injectors, stock internals with skirted pistons. Drivetrain: '95 T56, pro 5.0 shifter, hayes clutch, Stock 10 bolt with 3.42's Suspension: LS1 front brakes, Spohn SFC's, hot part LCA's. 265/40/18's up front and 275/40/18's out back on 18x9.5 c6's 335RWHP 339.8RWTQ
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That's your fusible link and you'll need to buy a new one and solder it into the harness. Mark the wires so that you know which side of the fusible link they were on, before you cut them off.
In my experience, a 50A fusible link will suffice since this one is powering only the electric fans.
Hope this helps.
Lou
__________________ '91 Z28 convertible w/305TPI WC T5 (no more auto)
"Nothing screams more of poor craftsmanship than wrinkles in your duct tape!"
Could this also affect my charge in the battery or alternator? since this happened i noticed my voltage is at about 10 vs 12-13
__________________ 1991 Z28 Engine: '94 355 LT1, GM hot cam, 1.6 RR's, Ported Heads, Dyno Don's headers, #30 SVO injectors, stock internals with skirted pistons. Drivetrain: '95 T56, pro 5.0 shifter, hayes clutch, Stock 10 bolt with 3.42's Suspension: LS1 front brakes, Spohn SFC's, hot part LCA's. 265/40/18's up front and 275/40/18's out back on 18x9.5 c6's 335RWHP 339.8RWTQ
Could this also affect my charge in the battery or alternator? since this happened i noticed my voltage is at about 10 vs 12-13
Yes it would, this fusible link connects the charging wire from the alternator with the battery.
I am surprised, though, because only the orange wire seems to be broken off (supplies power to the cooling fans).
Well anyway, if you replace the whole fusible link, you should be back on the road with no trouble.
Lou
__________________ '91 Z28 convertible w/305TPI WC T5 (no more auto)
"Nothing screams more of poor craftsmanship than wrinkles in your duct tape!"
I went and looked for a new fusible link everywhere in town including the dealer and found nothing. Would taking the orange wire and T splice it into the red wire work untill i can find a permanant solution?
__________________ 1991 Z28 Engine: '94 355 LT1, GM hot cam, 1.6 RR's, Ported Heads, Dyno Don's headers, #30 SVO injectors, stock internals with skirted pistons. Drivetrain: '95 T56, pro 5.0 shifter, hayes clutch, Stock 10 bolt with 3.42's Suspension: LS1 front brakes, Spohn SFC's, hot part LCA's. 265/40/18's up front and 275/40/18's out back on 18x9.5 c6's 335RWHP 339.8RWTQ
It would work but only as a very temporary solution. An unfused circuit is a very dangerous circuit. Get a fusible link on that wire as soon as you can.
Lou
__________________ '91 Z28 convertible w/305TPI WC T5 (no more auto)
"Nothing screams more of poor craftsmanship than wrinkles in your duct tape!"
If you can't find a fusible link anywhere you can go to the auto parts store and replace the old fusible link with an inline fuse holder and fuse. This is actually what I have in my car now in the same place you're looking to fix. As long as the fuse holder has proper gauge wire and you use the right amp fuse, you'll have no problems and be just as safe as with the fusible link.
Without looking at a skematic i cant tell what i can splice this wire into to make it work again. I will plan on putting a fuse on it. Can i cut the red wire on the other side of the link and splice them together? That orange wire just needs to have a constant 12v correct?
__________________ 1991 Z28 Engine: '94 355 LT1, GM hot cam, 1.6 RR's, Ported Heads, Dyno Don's headers, #30 SVO injectors, stock internals with skirted pistons. Drivetrain: '95 T56, pro 5.0 shifter, hayes clutch, Stock 10 bolt with 3.42's Suspension: LS1 front brakes, Spohn SFC's, hot part LCA's. 265/40/18's up front and 275/40/18's out back on 18x9.5 c6's 335RWHP 339.8RWTQ
The schematic shows that all the red wires are not fused and only the orange wire is connected to the fused side. So that's what you can do when installing the maxi fuse.
Lou
__________________ '91 Z28 convertible w/305TPI WC T5 (no more auto)
"Nothing screams more of poor craftsmanship than wrinkles in your duct tape!"
So out of that picture the oragne wire is the only one that is fused? So what your saying is i can take the smaller red wire on the other side of the link and splice them together? what does the schematic say the fuse value is?
__________________ 1991 Z28 Engine: '94 355 LT1, GM hot cam, 1.6 RR's, Ported Heads, Dyno Don's headers, #30 SVO injectors, stock internals with skirted pistons. Drivetrain: '95 T56, pro 5.0 shifter, hayes clutch, Stock 10 bolt with 3.42's Suspension: LS1 front brakes, Spohn SFC's, hot part LCA's. 265/40/18's up front and 275/40/18's out back on 18x9.5 c6's 335RWHP 339.8RWTQ
The schematic doesn't mention the fusible link size but since the link only supplies power to the electric fans, you will be fine with a 50A fuse. You could probably come down to 40A. A 30A fuse would be borderline if both fans kick in at the same time since the motors draw more than nominal current at startup.
Lou
__________________ '91 Z28 convertible w/305TPI WC T5 (no more auto)
"Nothing screams more of poor craftsmanship than wrinkles in your duct tape!"
