wrcdbs

I want to bypass my son's VATS in his 1991 RS so I can drive my truck again - how do I identify the VATS connector under the dash? If anyone has pictures it would help - there is a recent thread with pictures of purple and black wires on a '91 but there seems to be some question whether that is a correct installation. Does 800 ohms seem like a correct value for the resistor? Also, does it make any difference how many watts the resistor should handle? Would appreciate any pictures and specific help - Thank you!

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camaronewbie

That pic with the purple wires - see the two white wires in the orange cover - that's the VATS wires - plug the resistor in them (on the car side, not the steering wheel side).

The 16 possible resistance values are listed in the tech articles:

http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

http://www.thirdgen.org/vats

__________________
1992 25th Anniversary RS
350 Edelbrock 1406 Carb
10:1 Dometops Mild Cam
Hedmann Coated Headers
Hi-Flo Cat/Aerochamber Muffler
Rebuilt 700R4 B&M Shift Kit Vette Servo
LS1 Disc Rear w/3.42 Posi
Poly Bushings
Eibach Prokit
Bilstein Shocks/Struts
HOK Candy Teal on Silver Flake

1997 Camaro Z-28 LT1

wrcdbs

thanks - so should I go to 900 ohms on the resistor?

wrcdbs

appreciate the help . . .

camaronewbie

double check the resistance of the pellet just to be sure - 800 is kinda in the middle

__________________
1992 25th Anniversary RS
350 Edelbrock 1406 Carb
10:1 Dometops Mild Cam
Hedmann Coated Headers
Hi-Flo Cat/Aerochamber Muffler
Rebuilt 700R4 B&M Shift Kit Vette Servo
LS1 Disc Rear w/3.42 Posi
Poly Bushings
Eibach Prokit
Bilstein Shocks/Struts
HOK Candy Teal on Silver Flake

1997 Camaro Z-28 LT1

Stephen

The VATS controller is looking for 1 of 16 SPECIFIC resistance values, with only a little leeway in each of the possible 16. A 800 resistor is only gonna help you IF that happens to be the one that is correct for your car.

You'll hafta find out which one your key is, before guessing randomly. Unless you wanna go buy all 16 different values & start testing them one by one, until it starts.

Now, if your son has lost the keys, then you have 2 options.....

Buy the 16 different resistors & start testing
OR
Go to a GM dealership with the VIN & your title (to prove you own it) & get a new key. Or see if they'll tell you which resistor value is correct for your car & go buy that resistor.

__________________

Custom powder coated flat black ROH Snypers w/the correct 3rd gen offset (no spacers needed, front or rear) Front--275/40R17s on 17"x9"--5" bs & custom widened & custom powder coated Rear--315/35R17s on 17"x11"--7" bs,
4th gen front seats, OEM 2001 TA rear wing, OEM 1997 TA side mirrors
TSP LS1 Cat-back exhaust-UMI Rod Ended STB-UMI Double Rod Ended On-car Adjustable PHB-UMI Performance Adjustable Control Arms with Off-Set Bushings - Ground Control Weight Jacks, Eibach Springs 9.5"-600lb/10"-150lb


To be Installed:
UMI Performance Tie Rod Adjusters-Kenny Brown Double Diamond SFCs

Home of the STS (Sequential Turn Signal) mod
Parting Out - 1989 Pontiac Trans Am GTA


GOD Bless America

wrcdbs

thanks -

have been out of town so haven't had a chance to get this done yet - will check the other key and resistance at the wires again.

Also, do I need to plug the wires back into the connector once the resistor is soldered in? Sorry to be dense, but I'm not an electrician . . .

wrcdbs

Thank you - I'll double check resistance in both keys and in the wires. Have been traveling and unable to get this done. Also, do I need to reconnect the connector once the resistor is soldered in? I'm not an electrician . . .

Stephen

You won't be able to. The 2 pin ends of the resistor, will be inserted into the wire connector end, then shrink wrap/electrical tape it shut, to protect & key the resistor from falling out.

No resistance to check in the wires. Just the keep will give you the calue of the resistor you need to use.

wrcdbs

thanks to everyone who chimed in - car is up and running again -

Stephen

What did you end up doing, to get it running again?

wrcdbs

Exactly as suggested - unplugged the connectors, found a 390 ohm resistor (after confirming that the car had a 402 ohm "chip") at Radio Shack, bent the ends to fit tightly in the car side connector, tested to ensure she started several times over, then secured the resistor in the connector, taped the wires, and put it all back together. Very slick - no solder, and it's reversible should we ever want to restore the car to complete stock . . .