ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
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Take a look, see what you think and let me know if there is anything you think might cause a problem. I'm having a few gremlins I'm trying to iron out.
Wiring at battery:
+ 1/0 Welding Cable from battery to kill switch
+ 4 ga Alternator charging lead from alt to battery
- 1/0 welding cable from battery to frame
- 4 ga directly from the head to the battery
Let's look at my grounds.
GND at head directly to battery:
__________________ 1991 Pearl White Z28 383
3265 lbs.
305 TPI = 9.17@81
Last edited by CamarosRUS; 09-06-2009 at 11:36 AM.
looks good but i see one issue- that looks like a regular wet cell battery, which vents hydrogen gas. where you have it now will vent the hydrogen gas into the passenger compartment.
there are 2 ways to get around this- either run a sealed vent from the battery box to the outside of the car, or get an absorbed glass mat (or AGM, like Optima) battery because those do not vent.
LG4 305ci 4bbl motor, 2.5" Cherry Bomb Extreme muffler- side exit exhaust, Cragar 15x7 Black D Window wheels (4" backspacing), Cooper Cobra Radial GT tires (P235/60R15), 36mm hollow front sway bar with wonder bar, 24mm rear sway bar, Energy Suspension endlinks and Guldstrand bushings, Edelbrock Elite 4222 air cleaner with K&N filter, FF Dynamics 16" Cyclone electric fan, Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Fan Controller, custom fixed headlight conversion with 5000K HIDs and Silverstar Ultra H7 bulbs, Pilot PL-362W driving lights with Hella 100W H3 bulbs, Deka Intimidator 9A78DT AGM battery
While I usually run Optima, this battery is a temp. The box is sealed and vented outside the car. I still need to drill two more holes and get some more grommets for the GND and alt charging lead. It's actually an aluminum box too, just has that protective vinyl still on it...
LG4 305ci 4bbl motor, 2.5" Cherry Bomb Extreme muffler- side exit exhaust, Cragar 15x7 Black D Window wheels (4" backspacing), Cooper Cobra Radial GT tires (P235/60R15), 36mm hollow front sway bar with wonder bar, 24mm rear sway bar, Energy Suspension endlinks and Guldstrand bushings, Edelbrock Elite 4222 air cleaner with K&N filter, FF Dynamics 16" Cyclone electric fan, Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Fan Controller, custom fixed headlight conversion with 5000K HIDs and Silverstar Ultra H7 bulbs, Pilot PL-362W driving lights with Hella 100W H3 bulbs, Deka Intimidator 9A78DT AGM battery
Couldn't you of just when from alternator to starter for the charging lead? Your starter wire would carry the voltage back to the battery right? i'm getting to relocated and want to run as little wires as possible. But good write up!
Couldn't you of just when from alternator to starter for the charging lead? Your starter wire would carry the voltage back to the battery right? i'm getting to relocated and want to run as little wires as possible. But good write up!
Yes, but with it hooked up that way the kill switch would be rendered useless. If you do not run a kill switch (which I don't recommend) that would suffice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZimGTA
Will the main distribution block handle enough amps to turn the starter?
I am about to wire up my battery in the trunk. I want to put it where you did so I dont lose my spare tire. That looks really good I saved this and will be using it as a reference. But what are the gremlins that you are having? So I know what to look for. Also I have many junction boxs, big inline fuses from previous high amp installs,(600-1200)amps. Im getting hung up on the power flow from alt, battery, starter. And how to use my junction boxs to simplify things and where on the flow to place them. Also I read somewhere to put a big fuse on the power wire going to battery?
Your setup looks fine. I have a couple of suggestions, thats all they are so take them for what they are worth.
First I would put the Kill switch on the GND side of the battery. Accidental live switch failure modes are a little better. If the starter gets stuck and someone switches that switch there is lwss potential for the leads to weld to the switch housing and melt it.
Next, I would measure resistance from the - battery to each of your GND landing points. With the thirdgen being unibody, it is not always garanteed that continuity is had throught the subframe and chassis. Should never see over 1 ohm.
Next, If you can scavange or afford it. Get rid of the audio equipment stuff. It is not rated for that enviroment and you will need to keep an eye on it. The welding cable is good but keep it away from chemicals and sun light. What you really need is SGX battery cable and SXL wiring. This is very robust for auto and industrial enviroments. The only thing it will take offense to is extreme amounts of ATF and hydraulic fluid, but it is more tolerant than most.
Next are the junction blocks they should work, but screw terminals are less than desirable, in heavy duty applications Copper relaxes after time, so if not properly crimped or soldered the connection will weaken. Your best bet is lug and gland/ ring terminals, the more expensive solution would be connectors from Duestsch or Tyco. You can get most of these parts from a heavy equipment supplier like CAT or Deere. As for junction blocks, the heavy equipment pieces would be good. I have also score some real nice stuff off of heavy duty trucks in Junk yards.
Las but not least. I like those battery terminals you used. The copper ring terminals are just about as good as it gets. The way I put them on is with my plumbing gear. Flux them, heat them up with the propane torch and then fill the ring terminal with solder and insert the wire. If your using SGX wire the insulation will be fine. Then I use adhesive lined heat shrink as electrical tape is not heat or chemical friendly.
I design equipment that runs in the Oil Sands of Alaska, and failures are few and far between. I also happen to be a gear head and my hot rods do not have electrical problems
Your setup looks fine. I have a couple of suggestions, thats all they are so take them for what they are worth.
First I would put the Kill switch on the GND side of the battery. Accidental live switch failure modes are a little better. If the starter gets stuck and someone switches that switch there is lwss potential for the leads to weld to the switch housing and melt it.
I have heard this many times and never really thought about doing it myself. Seems much safer and more efficient but, at this point, I would be too short on my power lead and would need another section of 15 ft. 1/0 cable.
I do wish I could do the entire rig over with the knowledge I have now, however.
Next, I would measure resistance from the - battery to each of your GND landing points. With the thirdgen being unibody, it is not always garanteed that continuity is had throught the subframe and chassis. Should never see over 1 ohm.
Everything seemed to ohm out well but for good measure I did run a 4 ga ground directly from the head to the battery. I just don't trust the chassis at all!
Next, If you can scavange or afford it. Get rid of the audio equipment stuff. It is not rated for that enviroment and you will need to keep an eye on it. The welding cable is good but keep it away from chemicals and sun light. What you really need is SGX battery cable and SXL wiring. This is very robust for auto and industrial enviroments. The only thing it will take offense to is extreme amounts of ATF and hydraulic fluid, but it is more tolerant than most.
Also one of those thing I wish I could do over again. The audio wire was definitely what I had laying around but, luckily, everything is our of contact with pretty much any element as I know its not the most durable.
I always had previously thought the welding wire the best you can get and that's why I went with it for the main power and ground leads.
Next are the junction blocks they should work, but screw terminals are less than desirable, in heavy duty applications Copper relaxes after time, so if not properly crimped or soldered the connection will weaken. Your best bet is lug and gland/ ring terminals, the more expensive solution would be connectors from Duestsch or Tyco. You can get most of these parts from a heavy equipment supplier like CAT or Deere. As for junction blocks, the heavy equipment pieces would be good. I have also score some real nice stuff off of heavy duty trucks in Junk yards.
The junction blocks are definitely the cheap brands but I was unaware this would make a huge difference. I guess when I originally executed this plan I didn't do enough research and plan for the long term. Do you see a big problem with what I have?
Las but not least. I like those battery terminals you used. The copper ring terminals are just about as good as it gets. The way I put them on is with my plumbing gear. Flux them, heat them up with the propane torch and then fill the ring terminal with solder and insert the wire. If your using SGX wire the insulation will be fine. Then I use adhesive lined heat shrink as electrical tape is not heat or chemical friendly.
Thank you, I crimped and soldered the lugs and sure hope they can withstand my abuse but, once again, I wish I could do everything over again (like the entire car!!!) and do everything 100% correct.
I design equipment that runs in the Oil Sands of Alaska, and failures are few and far between. I also happen to be a gear head and my hot rods do not have electrical problems
I appreciate the time you took to analyze the setup, everything said is taken graciously and very much appreciated. Hopefully in the future I can chip away at some of the more problem areas and feel even more comfortable with the setup. A lot of it was done with what was available to save money but we all know how that generally ends up in the long run!
Last edited by CamarosRUS; 11-25-2010 at 10:22 PM.
I am about to wire up my battery in the trunk. I want to put it where you did so I dont lose my spare tire. That looks really good I saved this and will be using it as a reference. But what are the gremlins that you are having? So I know what to look for. Also I have many junction boxs, big inline fuses from previous high amp installs,(600-1200)amps. Im getting hung up on the power flow from alt, battery, starter. And how to use my junction boxs to simplify things and where on the flow to place them. Also I read somewhere to put a big fuse on the power wire going to battery?
Chevysurfer, the gremlins I was having had absolutely nothing to do with my setup. One was due to the alternator pigtail not making sufficient contact with the alternator connector and causing intermittent voltage readings. If there is one thing I learned, check and re-check EVERYTHING!!!
Chevysurfer, the gremlins I was having had absolutely nothing to do with my setup. One was due to the alternator pigtail not making sufficient contact with the alternator connector and causing intermittent voltage readings. If there is one thing I learned, check and re-check EVERYTHING!!!
Well thats good to know that it didnt have to do with your setup. It looks like you have done extra to insure everything works properly. You have a real nice ride, I use to live up in Louisville, I have seen alot of nice rides and camaros up there locally. My dad owns a body shop in Hillview off of bluelick rd. Its rite there at the border of Jefferson county and Bullit county. Ill be up there soon I hope to see some nice rides like yours.(Well after the nasty weather).
Chevysurfer, like I said in the beginning, I think your setup will suffice. If the car sees the road frequently, I would give everything a once over with each oil change. If it is a teack car, chances are your giving everything a visual before each trip to the track, so this should be fine also.
Welding wire is decent. I really like the braided stuff you have. Just need to watch fuel and oil contamination of the insulation. The conductor is great. Just thought I would throw some tips out there if you end up redoing anything, and I believe you under stood that:-) It is nice to have a logical two way dialog on making these cars better. Sometimes that can be hard to do with a large audience with varied opinions. Looks like you have done some good work to your ride and to me that is always respected.
Hey since you had to redo the wiring on the starter...I cannot figure out the correct wiring on it...i had to redo all of my wiring bc i went to carb. Just wondering if you could tell me what goes where on the starter? preciate it!
