ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
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Probably easy to some but I'm completely intimidated with the wiring on my project(just want to get it right the first time). Not for lack of reading and doing the research on my own just need some direction or a link to a similar swap.
Car is an 88 Iroc which I have installed a carbed LT1 from a 95 Caprice. Removed the TPI & ECM (sold) and I need to reconnect the Fuel Pump, Cooling Fans, Alternator, and AC.
Amazingly the iroc plugs fit the LT1 alt and ac compressor.
Fans:
Sold the Wiring harness/ECM and like a dumb azz I gave away this plug and relay with the package:
Do I need to recover one of these from say a junk yard or will my situation require something different? My obvious question is how to setup so fans come on automatically?
Fuel Pump - Do I need to simply wire so that the pump turns on with the ignition? Does this still require the relay?
AC - well not only do I need advice on the connections but I found one of the plugs pretty crispy Please advise on getting this plug(the one with the capacitor) if needed for my setup? Here's a pic:
Again I have tried hrs of research but still intimidated when it comes to the wiring and just want some concrete advice for my situation. At this point I am running out of good weather quick here in Philly and the project is outside so time is becoming a major factor. Any direction, advice, Info is greatly appreciated!!
I will DEFINITELY do a complete thread on my swap when it's done to help out the community!!!
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In the first pic - the plug with the green weatherpacking on it you don't need - it was the connector for the electronic spark module which you won't need. The relay and plug for that was fan I'm guessing - you can get any relay from autoparts store and rig in for fans - doesn't have to be factory relay.
For the fan, my suggestion is a seperate fan controller - I have one from Flex-a-lite = it was $80, probes the radiator fins for temp, is fully adjustable, and has provisions for always on and always off switches, and will work in conjunction with your A/C and dual fan setup from your IROC - sells at summit.
For the fuel pump - I'd again use a relay, getting a signal from any hot in run source to energize the relay and direct power from the fusible link junction box beside the battery to the fuel pump through that relay.
In the first pic - the plug with the green weatherpacking on it you don't need - it was the connector for the electronic spark module which you won't need. The relay and plug for that was fan I'm guessing - you can get any relay from autoparts store and rig in for fans - doesn't have to be factory relay.
For the fan, my suggestion is a seperate fan controller - I have one from Flex-a-lite = it was $80, probes the radiator fins for temp, is fully adjustable, and has provisions for always on and always off switches, and will work in conjunction with your A/C and dual fan setup from your IROC - sells at summit.
For the fuel pump - I'd again use a relay, getting a signal from any hot in run source to energize the relay and direct power from the fusible link junction box beside the battery to the fuel pump through that relay.
This includes the ac relay also which i'm hoping will solve that issue as well.
Was just reading your advice on a similar thread which was a huge help. From that I think I understand the fuel pump issue. I may have deleted a few other items that i shouldn't have but I won't know for sure till the frikin rain stops here. Maybe you can tell from these pics?
i will try to explain what i have do with my 88 tpi swap to carb!
i was beginning on the side of the big plug that comes from the ecm!
than i take wire for wire and strip it out!
sometime you must cut a wire from a fusible link because thes are connected from the ecm to that!
everything that comes from the ecm you don`t need it EVERYTHING!!!!
when you all don that you have one plug left
and that`s the plug of the cooling fan,because these are connected on 4 wires
2x tan/white that going to the altenator plug (3 wire plug) and the other 2 wires going to the ecm!
yes you don`t need wires that come from the ecm so cut them to!
so the only wires then are left are the tan/white wires taht go to the alt plug!
i was confused about it but some people said that you dont need it right
but you can cut them and can use it later for anything!
so now you have a 2 wire alt plug like the old style altenators!
i hope this will help and look much at the carburator threads for the swap
All done except the AC which I'm not to concerned about at this point.
Pump (relay) connections were easy - respliced the tan/wht wire, Black/wht to ground, orange(big) to Battery, Small orange to c100 plug stays as is(this feeds the pump itself), Green/white to ignition(I happen to have pink/black wire left over from removing the ecm/harness)
For the fans I got a fan controller from AZ for like $35. has connections for dual fans and ac and has adjustable temp control. was easy to install. Simply splice into the fan wires, run hot to battery, ground, push the temp probe into the radiator (near the outlet hose) and your good to go. Will tie in the AC later.
ok so my problem is that I am attempting to put a 86 tpi mass air system into a 1962 willys 1 ton p\u ,I cannot get the injectors to fire. How dose the system determine when to fire the injectors form the distributor? I am using the factory distributor and have all of the sensors, relays ect installed and no such luck. So far all that I know for sure is functioning properly is the fuel pump relay and cold start system. any help will be much abliged
ok so my problem is that I am attempting to put a 86 tpi mass air system into a 1962 willys 1 ton p\u ,I cannot get the injectors to fire. How dose the system determine when to fire the injectors form the distributor? I am using the factory distributor and have all of the sensors, relays ect installed and no such luck. So far all that I know for sure is functioning properly is the fuel pump relay and cold start system. any help will be much abliged
Did you install an ECM & wiring? this will control the firing of the injectors. If so you may need some programming work.
Thats about the extent of the advice I can offer since my project is the opposite of yours. I have eliminated all of the ECM and fuel injection and went to the more conventional carb & HEI.
You will probably do better starting a new thread in the fuel injection section.
Good Luck and definitely post some pics of your project. I have friend that is an old P/U nut and he would definitely get a kick out of the fuel injection idea.
i have a question about the tan/white wire that is connected on the fan plug and relay!
iv you have seen the tan/white wire is also connected on the altenator plug!
were did you connect the wire now?
i mean if you cut the original fan plug than the tan/white wire is left from the altenator connector!
maybe you can help me with it
thanks dennis
Hey Dennis,
On my schematic it looks like the Tan/Wht wire(s) run to the IP harness so I don't think this is doing anything in our case(not sure)?? As I'm sure you can see there is a splice in the middle of the engine bay with about 4 tan/wht wires connected including the Alt. I just left them.
When I removed the ECM/Harness I cut the pump relay and fan relay from this splice and left everything else intact including the alt.
For the pump relay I just reconnected the tan/wht to this factory splice(again this may not be neccessary??). Then used a Pink/Black ignition wire from the c100 plug that was left from removing the ecm/harness and connected it to the green/wht on the relay so now the pump is on when key is on.
For the aftermarket fan controller the connections were:
Black - Ground
Red - Battery
Orange - Fan 1
Blue - Fan 2
Yellow - Ignition - I forgot to mention this one above but I have this spliced with the same pink/blk wire from the c100 as I do the pump relay.
For the 2 fans I kept the factory plugs (which plug into the fans) then cut away the original harness plug(s) and relay(s) and spliced the new controller there (grounds together-orange to fan 1-blue to fan 2).
Hope this all makes sense and helps a little. I will get pics and do a complete thread on my swap when complete. Just don't have the patience to do it a little at a time.
Hey Dennis,
On my schematic it looks like the Tan/Wht wire(s) run to the IP harness so I don't think this is doing anything in our case(not sure)?? As I'm sure you can see there is a splice in the middle of the engine bay with about 4 tan/wht wires connected including the Alt. I just left them.
When I removed the ECM/Harness I cut the pump relay and fan relay from this splice and left everything else intact including the alt.
For the pump relay I just reconnected the tan/wht to this factory splice(again this may not be neccessary??). Then used a Pink/Black ignition wire from the c100 plug that was left from removing the ecm/harness and connected it to the green/wht on the relay so now the pump is on when key is on.
For the aftermarket fan controller the connections were:
Black - Ground
Red - Battery
Orange - Fan 1
Blue - Fan 2
Yellow - Ignition - I forgot to mention this one above but I have this spliced with the same pink/blk wire from the c100 as I do the pump relay.
For the 2 fans I kept the factory plugs (which plug into the fans) then cut away the original harness plug(s) and relay(s) and spliced the new controller there (grounds together-orange to fan 1-blue to fan 2).
Hope this all makes sense and helps a little. I will get pics and do a complete thread on my swap when complete. Just don't have the patience to do it a little at a time.
hey
what did you mean with the pump relay?and where is it located?
i had before cutting the wires: 2 fan relays on the passenger front headlight oh and a fuse!
and on the firewall side i had 2 of the same relays as for the fan
and 1 fuel relay and another thing for the ecm!
i only left the fuel relay there!
i take a look tonight at the wiring again for cutting the tan/white wire from the altenator what you said!
what did you mean with the pump relay?and where is it located?
i had before cutting the wires: 2 fan relays on the passenger front headlight oh and a fuse!
and on the firewall side i had 2 of the same relays as for the fan
and 1 fuel relay and another thing for the ecm!
i only left the fuel relay there!
i take a look tonight at the wiring again for cutting the tan/white wire from the altenator what you said!
let me see some pics thats talks better!
dennis
I took a few pics, not very good though sorry. Some of the wires are tucked away in the conduit so wasn't able to get a pic.
First pic shows the fuel pump relay (as you said) at the drivers side firewall. Like you, I only have the fuel relay there (no fan relay)
The next pic shows the fuel pump relay Green/White wire which I connected to a Pink/Black wire coming from the c100 plug. I have a switch in between so I can turn power to the relay off when needed. The yellow wire on the switch is going to the new fan controller. This is ignition which is feeding power when the key is on.
If you are running a carb and not using the ECM I don't think the tan/wht wire is doing anything but I'm not sure. I reconnected the fuel pump relay tan/wht just in case. The plug for the alternator which has a red,black, and tan/wht wires fit the new alternator from the caprice so I left the tan/wht attached.
is that the only thing i must do to feed the fuel relay and work like before? Yes, this worked for me and you should have the same setup. One thing I would suggest is to put an inline fuse on the big orange wire to the battery to protect the relay. I am guessing but I would use a 20A fuse. Something like this: PICO WIRING 0950PT - Pico Electrical Fuse Holders
and what a kind of connecter is that on the left of the picture (2) This is just a basic toggle switch so that I can cut the power to the fuel pump relay if necessary. I was having problems with the carburator so it was necessary to shut down the fuel pump while I was working on it. I am going to keep the switch inline for antitheft purposes though.
i have also the same pink black wire left wen i have removed the ecm!
so i can use that for any 12v complication what i will or need? Yes this is ignition "hot" meaning it sends 12v when the key is on. Currently I have the fuel pump relay and fans on this wire but I would not connect anything else because you may risk overloading.
and another question: i have the dual havy duty fan`s,and with which setup can i use these for the best cooling! I have the "stock" dual fans running with an aftermarket fan controller. Both fans turn on automatically at the desired temp. Not sure the part # but it is similar to this one from summit: Hayden Automotive 3647 - Hayden Electric Fan Controls
dennis
Fred
Last edited by 88 Iroc Project; 11-02-2009 at 09:28 PM.
Reason: additional info added
but is there nothing that i must do with the OPSU wiring?? i have read some threads about it for priming the fuel?!?!
and about the 2 stock fans!
are they running on one or two relays and howmuch amp??
and do you use the original plug of the fan`s?
i like it to use it because it looks like original but i don`t now if i can use it!
thanks for the good advice and info! No problem! Still learning myself but glad to help when I can.
but is there nothing that i must do with the OPSU wiring?? i have read some threads about it for priming the fuel?!?! This one I do not know I do not have the wires for the OPSU I must have given away with the ECM/Harness when sold. If you are running carb you do not need to prime the fuel.
and about the 2 stock fans!
are they running on one or two relays and howmuch amp??
and do you use the original plug of the fan`s?
i like it to use it because it looks like original but i don`t now if i can use it! The fan controller has one relay which turns on both fans at the same time. The fan controller came with an inline fuse on the red wire. I kept the factory plugs at the fans and removed everything else. Very easy install and works great. Heres a "cheezy" schematic I made:
stock the fan`s have 2 relays off 30 amp
should it run good and great with one 30 amp relay without melting wires???
and should i use the original plug (that one that you give away and the original near the battery that you have cut) and then make a nice new wiring from the new relay?!?!
stock the fan`s have 2 relays off 30 amp
should it run good and great with one 30 amp relay without melting wires???
and should i use the original plug (that one that you give away and the original near the battery that you have cut) and then make a nice new wiring from the new relay?!?!
dennis
Fan controller has a 30A fuse.
You may be able to make the original plugs work which would make a nice clean look. Originally I was trying to test my fans by connecting 12v direct to one of the plugs and it would not work (fans wouldn't come on). I'm not sure why so at that point I just cut the big plugs off and put 12v direct to the wires and the fans were good. From there i just installed the new fan controller as shown above and everything works great.
Fred
and what did you with the original distributor wiring?
can i use it for the new distributor?
i have see that there are 2 plugs left (the stock tpi distributor plugs)
can i use one of them for the new distributor? so yes which one of it?
what i remember is there is one thick pink wire on it!!
dennis
I am using an HEI distributor/coil (coil is on the distributor not seperate). For now I just cut and attached shrink wrap push-on connectors to the Pink and White wires and plug them into the new distributor. I will get the snap-in plugs later but this works fine.
Pink - 12V Battery
White - Tach
Please advise on getting this plug(the one with the capacitor) if needed for my setup? Here's a pic:
I do not have the wires for the OPSU I must have given away with the ECM/Harness when sold. If you are running carb you do not need to prime the fuel.
