I just purchased a 91 B4C that lost the ignition switch and due to an attemped theft. The car had been sitting the owner also lost the keys. In reading the tech article about "fooling" the VATS system installing the proper resistor is discussed. The instructions tell you to measure the resistance across the key and/or at the plug for the ignition switch. I assume the power must be on to measure the resistance at the plug. Is that correct? Will this measurment give me the proper resistance reading so I can purchase and install the proper resistor? Thanks for the help!

Others on here have said that the dealer with you VIN can give you that value. Seems to depend on the knowledge level of the attnedent and his desire to help. As always seems there are some nobs at the GM parts counters. Ones I have delt with have been great.

You can't test the resistance in the car - you can only test the resistance of the pellet on the key. There is no resistance on the car end. If the key is gone, then you'll have to get all 15 resistors and test them inline one by one until you get the right one - then solder that one into place permanently.

Thank you both very much for the information and your responses!

Yes, camaronewbie is very correct. If you have the original key then it is easy. Simply measure the resistance of the "pellet" and match it to the closest value from the resistance chart. If you do not have the original key then it is a long process. I was asked several years ago to help someone get their camaro running after losing the keys. I bought a small variable trim potentiometer from radio shack and simply dialed in the resistances from the chart until I found the corect one. Keep in mind you will have to wait ten minutes between tries or the Vats module will kick out the attempt. If you don't want to keep the Vats system in use simply solder the resistance to the small wires from the ignition lock and it will bypass the Vats. See below for all 15 values.

1=392 ohms, 2=523, 3=681, 4=887, 5=1130, 6=1470, 7=1870, 8=2370, 9=3010, 10=3740, 11=4750, 12=6040, 13=7500, 14=9530, 15=11800

Today I found a complete steering column with key AND the matching VATS module in the dash that is still installed in the same car. If I install this column and the matching VATS module in my car will this method also easily solve the VATS issue since the resistance in the key will match the VATS module or is there more to it than that?

This will work also - but I'd much rather find the resistor for the column I had and fix that rather than remove and install a new column. If you want to keep VATS, when you find the right resistor then just go to ACE Hardware and have a key made to match for $25.

The column is broken and must be replaced anyway. I also do not have the key for the car so that's why that idea was interesting to me.

Other than that the car is very straight and complete!

ok, I also made a new thread on this (other questions involved), but I basically have to buy all 15 resistors since my car does not have the original column, the ign works fine as does everything else except no turn signals, starter is hot wired and I feel like an idiot having to pick up 2 wires everytime to start my car ( I bought it this way, but hey, only $400 bucks, and no, not stolen, bought from a creative teenager) Basically I do not have the original key that came with the car because the other owner replaced the column. So as far as I understand best thing to do is buy the 15 resistors listed, test to see which one is correct, then go to ace hardware and have a key chipped to match my module right? I just want to make sure I am not missing any steps here, Also what place do I take my measurments from? which wires? as far as colors, How do I test inline? to help I have an 89 bird. Thanx for any good input on this one, I hope to possibly be able to run the car normally withought having to use a seperate button to start it up

-Stormr

Stormr:

Yes - you got it - just get the resistors, put them in one by one until you get the one that works. Under the column, you should see an orange wire cover with two white wires inside - these are the ones. Open the orange cover, and cut the white wires, connect the resistor between the two white wires on the CAR side, not the steering wheel side, then try it. No worky, then install the next. Must have a time out of 5 minutes bewteen attempts, as I understand a wrong resistence value starts a timer in the VATS module that cuts out until the time passes. Once you get the right one, you can either A) leave it i place and use a $2 key with no pellet, or B) take your key to Ace and tell them to cut a key identical to yours with a pellet that has that resistance value.

When I bypassed mine I had the key thankfully to measure. I got an extra vats connector off a car in the bone yard and soldered the resistor to that, and then replaced the ignition lock cylinder with a non-vats one. Was less expensive all around for me. The new non-vats lock cylinder was $14 and a pack of resistors was $.99. My cylinder was totally worn out and needed to be replaced anyway.

If I went the vats route a new ignition cylinder with the vats was $34, then add $75 for 3 keys (one for me, fiancee, and a spare key). That's $109 total. So $15 or $109. Guess I'm cheap, but I eliminated potential problems with the wires breaking on the lock cylinder, and the problem of getting special keys made.

i am having this same problem on my 91 Z28. I have the key. it was giving me problems starting, but still works. it just feels like maybe the connection between the ignition and the "pellet" is weak or sometimes non-existent, hence the problem. is there a way i can check to see if something is oxidized or bent / broken? is it possible to keep VATS and somehow make the connection stronger? or perhaps just better to bypass it and call it a day?

ive always heard of bypassing the vats system as quick as you can due to resistance pellets falling out of the keys or the contact points in the switch burning up or wiring getting broke, so im going to bypass mine asap.

i just cant imagine leaving somewhere popping the key in the switch only to find that my pellet is now laying in the parking lost somewhere.

heres a thought " I cant drive my car even though i am the owner and i have the correct key" I worry about that every time i turn the key!

DiscoMaster: Yes the lock cylinder can wear and become intermittient. I just bypassed vats with a resistor and a standard lock cylinder. End of any potential problems.

Daves03: If you still have the key and not a backup key, measure the value now while you still can. It's easy to bypass if you still have the key. If you don't have a multi-meter take it into Radio Shack and I bet they would measure the value for you, and sell you the resistor pack for $.99. Then just by a standard lock cylinder for $15 and replace the vats cylinder. It's a direct replacement. Very easy to do.

why would you have to replace the lock cylinder if you bypass the VATS with a resistor at the base of the column?........

Update!

The column replacement in the car took less than 20 minnutes. When the column was out I installed the matching VATS box I got from the car from which I removed the steering column. Once you find the VATS box behind the defroster on the upper right side of the dash that process took about 10 minutes to change.

All in all a rather easy job in my opinion. Only 7 bolts to remove the column. Removed the dash pad and dash bezel bolts and pulled the dash assembly back to access the VATS box. 2 screws on the VATS box and one connector. To me it was much easier than trying up to 15 resistors to get the right one. With my luck i would need the 15th one I tried!

I purchased a good complete column with the key, nice steering wheel, airbag and the matching VATS box for $60.00. All in all a cheap fix to a big problem. Now that I know where everything is located I could do this replacment job in 30 minutes.