ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
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Don't know how it happened, but I can't figure out how to shut it off. My emergency brake is not hooked up (a little dangerous, I know). I am not very electric-savvy so any suggestions would be appreciated.
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If the feel of the hydraulic brakes is OK then one of the switches might be closed position when it should be open.
Take a look at the parking brake switch first because it’s easier to get to.
If it’s OK you can disconnect the wire to the hydraulic warning switch and see if the light goes out. Don’t forget to reconnect it when you’re finished.
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If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards
Fog lights are not driving lights. They look doofy. Turn em off slow pokes.
How bout those nervous nellies too scared to drive without headlights on in the daytime or if there is a little rain!
Don't know how it happened, but I can't figure out how to shut it off. My emergency brake is not hooked up (a little dangerous, I know). I am not very electric-savvy so any suggestions would be appreciated.
When the parking brake light comes on without the parking brake it is a signal of pad wear or brake problems. This is per the original owners manual.
Mods so far: MSD Cap and rotor, MSD ignition coil, Accel 8.8mm ignition wires, Hooker Super Comp Shortie Headers, Flowmaster 3in catback, underdrive crank pulley, BBK AFPR, custom cold air intake, NOS wet 125 shot, air foil and a lead foot! no E/T's yet. ...TURBO COMING SOON...Other mods include keyless entry and remote start, and Sequential Turn Signals. South Carolina ---> www.scfbaonline.com
Thanks guys, I will see what I can do to figure it out. I just replaced the power booster not too long ago, but when I press down on the brake pedal it doesn't feel like the pressure is high enough. I admit that it stops better though when I get the pedal down.
Oh and also, the light had shut off for a few days, but then came back on. ???
Mods so far: MSD Cap and rotor, MSD ignition coil, Accel 8.8mm ignition wires, Hooker Super Comp Shortie Headers, Flowmaster 3in catback, underdrive crank pulley, BBK AFPR, custom cold air intake, NOS wet 125 shot, air foil and a lead foot! no E/T's yet. ...TURBO COMING SOON...Other mods include keyless entry and remote start, and Sequential Turn Signals. South Carolina ---> www.scfbaonline.com
The switch on the prop valve will ground when there is bias front to rear in the hydraulic system. If you disconnect the wire and the light goes out, reconnect it and the lamp lights and check continuity to ground at the wire connector then the lamp is doing as it should and warning you of a hydraulic problem in your system. Either air is trapped or fluid is leaking after the prop valve.
When you replaced the booster was there any chance that the master ran low on fluid? Is it low now?
__________________ "A man who voluntarily drives a car like that and still manages to maintain such impervious confidence that it will faithfully start the next time he turns that key is an encouragement for us all to take greater risks in life."
If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards
